PhilO

I have set up my retracts as shown and worked fine until I reversed the polarity on one of them to try and get it to reverse ( yes I know how stupid this was)  It seems that I have damaged the electronics in both servos (Supertec)  I have now replaced with 2 screwjack servos from zimports rc. Superbly engineered and very good value.  However I would if possible like to repair the 2 Servotecs. Does anyone have any ideas or should I just junk them?

Have spoken to Mike at Model Radio Workshop @ explained the situation. He says reversing the polarity manually rather than electrically has blown the amplifiers. a stupid and relatively expensive mistake.Doesn't think it is economic to repair but I hate to be beat so if anyone has a pair of broken SUPERTEC S136 GH servos ( with electronics board intact) I will make them an offer . PhilO   

Servos are Supertec S136 GH. Both servos were working and lifting the gear on test. Problem started when I fitted the by-pass loom and reversed polarity - no servo response whatsoever.  Have opened up one of the servos and visually all seems in order - no burning smell and no burnt components. When I connected a standard servo to port 5 this worked fine but when I did similar with the retract servos, again nothing therefore cannot be lack of power and must be some electronic component failure.

Thanks handyman. I have 2 y-leads in the circuit as you suggest but the problem seems to be with the servo as I have tested them both on a direct lead to the receiver. Putting another servo in port 5 works normally  

Thanks guys. Yes I did only cut the red wire Alan, so I guess that the problem arose from reversing the polarity on one of the servos as I have tested them again on a single lead direct from the receiver. As I gave it no more than 4.8 volts I wouldn't have thought this would have caused a problem though!  Handyman, is it a simple task to reverse the potentiometer connections. I assume I have to take the cover off? (sorry for being a pleb in the electronics field)  Regards  Phil  ps: have found a pair of screwjack units on ebay which look as though they may be a simpler solution. If I can get at least on of the servos to work again will probably use to lift the u/c doors  

Have followed the wiring diagram and turned on but nothing doing. I tested the servos by direct connection into channel 5 and still no joy so it looks as though I may have fried both servos although did not smell anything. I reversed the polarity (red to black and visa versa) on one of the servos to try and get them to run in opposite directions. Could this be the problem although can't see why it should have blown both.  Do you know of a good servo repairer? After the problems ive had in trying to get these retracts to work, I think I will stick to fixed undercarriage models in future.  EWWBUP ( which not surprisingly stands for every which way but up)

I am just getting ready to cover my Nijhuis Typhoon (I'm a slow builder) Engine is in and Retracts fitted. PROBLEM - I found that the recommended SuperTecLo-Profile 136GH/2BB servo was not man enough to retract the pair of robart legs and wheels and have had to fit a second servo, one for each leg. I now want to fit a separate retract battery and switch as articled in a recent RCM& E which i have unfortunately lost or mislaid.  Can anyone please help me here, I seem to remember that a wire had to be cut somewhere. Was it the white,red or black to the receiver retract channel?  Thanks in anticipation EWWBUP

Another carburettor problem, this time with my OS 48 Surpass which is no longer in production. I broke the fuel needle in a crash and unfortunately this is now irretrievably lodged in the fuel valve inserted in the carb body. Instead of replacing the whole carb, I am looking for a new valve insert or  2nd hand carb.  If anyone knows where I could buy one, could they let me know Incidentally, looking on the Ripmax Site, The FS 70 carb looks similar. Is this the same size?  Regards  Philo

Fixed it with plastic metal in the end. PhilO

No joy there then! Ive noticed that there is a spare blank housing at 90 deg to the original on the carb body and would anyone with the necessary precision engineering skills be kind enough to drill, tap and fit a new stop screw for me please. if in the Birmingham/W.Midland area area, I'll buy you a pint  or maybe 2 PhilO

Does anyone know where I can find a carb body for my old Saito 4 FA 30 ( the one with the unsleeved push rods), which I would like to put into a vintage model I have unfortunatelly damaged the housing containing the stop screw and as a result the barrel cannot be retained. PhilO

My TN Typhoon is coming along but slowly. This would make a good alternative for the summer. PhilO

Thanks guys for your information and advice on both counts. I think i can now resolve the problem PhilO

Thanks Timbo but I'm not that much of a techie & don't even have a digital camera yet. Battery is a 3S (11.1v) 25c Can you let me have your address by e-mail and I will send you a photocopy of the socket and adaptor.   Philo

I recently allowed a lipo to overdischarge and had to ditch it.   I then bought a Kongpower 2200mAh Lipo from Al's Hobbies (as this is claimed to be more robust)along with a Dualsky ESC, program card and Voltage checker. After fitting gold connectors, checking for compatibility of an existing motor to the ESC using a Nicad, I was ready for charging and balancing the Kong with my relatively new Bantam BC6 and MPX/TP Battery Adaptor, sold by another retailer as being "universal". I thought all was going too well, because when I attempted to attach the balancing plug, Sods law came into play and it didn't fit any of the 4 sockets on the adaptor. Al's said they couldn't help but did offer a refund if the battery was returned in pristine condition - now difficult since I have soldered the connectors on.   How can we beginners hope to overcome the mysteries of e-flight when we can't even buy compatible equipment. Surely it's time that the retailers and model magazines started to bring some pressure on the various manufacturers to standardise their fittings, or is this a ploy to make us buy only their range of products?  Finally, does anyone know where I can obtain a compatible adaptor between a Kong LiPo and BC6 charger. I just want to fly!