Alan Gorham_
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Posts posted by Alan Gorham_
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As I said, I don't use an airbrush to paint large areas. It would take too long to get good coverage anyway, but the high pigment content of Warbirds is better suited to a spraygun.
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Expect to do lots of stirring as the pigment is prone to settle, but some of my tins are still giving great results at over 10 years old!
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12 minutes ago, Don Fry said:
Keith, before I start, I give notice I have a hat in this ring. I designed a two meter aircraft, drew it, cut it, built it, tweaked it. Very nice flyer, very very happy bunny. Worth the considerable workload. Spectrum rx.
Flight 15, fail safe, dead, plunged to earth, trimmed to fly in the direction it points. Testing, it worked, but failed every so often. Opened it up, circuit board was just not quite right, slightly messy, and a whisker/strand of a power cable was suspiciously close to a short potential, and I was working the aircraft hard. That Spectrum rx did not pass QC unless by a blind inspector. I did some research, and mine was a fake, different screws fitted, very minor differences to some of the fonts.
So I’m down a couple of hundred hours, a new 25 cc petrol engine, rx I paid proper money for, airframe costs, some servos, and an abiding hatred of fake stuff.The fake/dodgey sellers tell us they are tail end production, using spare components, after the famous brand has had its order. Lie like a cheap watch. Rant over.
I don’t know why the prices have shot up, perhaps you are right, rip off, or not, chaotic supply chains beating up small order people. Assumptions cut no ice. Similarly, any actual evidence that the same factory, circuit board, components are used in el cheapo, and a Branded item?
I use Spectrum stuff. I’m not a 100% fan, and I will move on to multi protocol when I decide to change my Tx.
But there has to be a price point where good components, good machines, factory practice, QC, can’t be done.The fact that you fitted a Spectrum receiver should have been a giveaway. The genuine articles are branded Spektrum....
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I love them and wish they still had a UK distribution channel. They are water based and are clean, very low odour and very quick drying. I like the most because the pigment is very dense meaning you don't need to apply many coats to get perfect coverage. I spray all my models using a mini car touch up gun. Quick, easy and painless. I also paint all markings as it is fun.
Having said that, I enjoy other paints such as the Hobby Flight enamel sold by King's Lynn models and also car cellulose paint. They are all user friendly as long as you use them correctly and develop a technique.
Some models I have painted with Warbirds..
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Look at p39 of the manual.
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Have you assigned switch E to Channel 6 using the AUX-CH function?
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5 minutes ago, toto said:
Just checked the weight ...... 1023g and that's with the supplied 3s battery.
A little outside the 750g which I was under the impression was a threshold for unattended flying. As has been said earlier in the thread though, I think I may have misinterpreted it a bit. This figure is about registering for an operators license.
I need to check 5o make sure that I stay on the 4ight side of things.
Cheers
Toto
I trust that you already have a valid Operator ID number via the CAA and the OP ID affixed to your over 250g models?
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I think this is either an Inwood Models Improver or Pacer, or possibly a Masterline Vandal, but I am more sure it's one of the Inwood kits. Long out of production.
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David, I have an HP Halifax only slightly larger than the 72“ Nijhuis Lanc. It is a powered model that I have flown at several PSSA events as a pure glider. Here is what I do to make it a PSS model:
1. Remove props.
2. Retract undercarriage.
3. Launch and enjoy.
Unless your model is particularly heavy, I don't understand why you need to 'convert' it.
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I do this and it works, but I also like to put a coat of Solarfilm Clearcoat over the masking tape to guarantee the film will stick down forever.
It looks much nicer than filming on top of the glass cloth as the weave is completely hidden by the tape.
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9 hours ago, Roy Thompson said:
She looks fabulous Alan, congratulations on the maiden. They are just so much simple fun aren’t they, I love throwing mine around on high rates and full throttle.
I had my new one out today with its third engine, an OS 10Max a SC 15 and now a dirty broken old OS 15LA I picked up cheap on eBay, I’ve spent an enjoyable week stripping, cleaning and doing a small repair to the RNV, not much else to go wrong with these motors. When I had it all back together it started on almost the first flick, and setup in no time. May fit the SC in to a new project.
George and Colin were at our place today to maiden George’s new little Bellancer Skyrocket, looked lovely against the low evening sun.
Thanks Roy, am very pleased with the model, it certainly put a smile on my face.
If you have a spare 15 now, then consider a Birdie Ten, plan available on Outerzone. It's a mini old school pattern ship. Flies nicely and is easy and cheap to build.
George had a small Bellanca built from a Peter Rake plan, but all foam instead of balsa sticks. Has he made a new one?
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1 hour ago, Piers Bowlan said:11 hours ago, Alan Gorham_ said:
What throws did you end up with Alan. I don’t have any instructions.Nice scheme by the way 👍
Piers, the instructions are posted in this very thread! They advised 1/4“ each way on both rudder and elevator. I have probably doubled that, certainly for the rudder. And, yes, I did check that the dihedral is as per plan!
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Me again! Maiden flight of my Spatman completed. In fact we managed three flights. I had set the throws as per the instructions and the model was much less responsive than I remembered. Over the next two flights I increased throws and by the third flight we had reached the fast, groovy model I used to fly back in the day. Just for nostalgia's sake, on the third flight I let the tank run dry and glided down to the strip dead stick. Total fun...
Here is Spatman keeping company with my Limbo Dancer.
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1 hour ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:
You would want more up than down anyway as an aid to prevent adverse yaw. Its not a fix, but it helps.
Sorry, that's wrong. Several full size biplanes including the Tiger Moth incorporate mechanical differential and they definitely have a small amount of down aileron movement and a much greater degree of up movement.
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I agree with Pat that the way the plan is drawn it looks like you will get differential aileron movement due to the fact that the horn is set back from the hinge line. It is distinctly odd and as Peter says, it must be a draughting error.
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If you are trying to say that the ST2000/2500 type motors were not Schnuerle ported and therefore lacked power, then that's not correct. They used Super Tigre's own variation on Schnuerle. That is, the transfer ports are arranged either side of the exhaust Port, as set out by Herr Schnuerle, but ST also used a pair of boost ports immediately opposite the exhaust as well.
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Calling mine mostly done. Just need to glass and paint the spats.
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You need to mount the engine so that it is central in the cowl opening. Simple as that, I'd say.
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Definitely install the engine with no thrust line offsets. They just aren't needed on a model with this configuration. As Jon says, just applying a bit of right rudder in long verticals is easy. Imagine how horrible it would look with the prop and spinner at funny angles to the front of the cowl!
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Thanks Roy. Am very pleased with the results I got with the foam wing. It was fun working with obechi veneer again, been many years. Am keen to make more foam wings but I think I'll do a Mini Skyman next as per plan.
Covering tonight...
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All the major building is done now. Ready for a quick run over with sandpaper and then on with covering!
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Republic Sea Bee? Not Grumman...
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Manual pump, Cyclon 2V lead acid cell and long set of glow leads and a glove for me. Much easier to carry any distance from car to pits.
Don't even take the Cyclon cell if flying diesel or spark engines!
Warbirds Paints - practical experience?
in Scale Matters
Posted
All masked. I can't do freehand camo very well.