Alan Gorham_
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Posts posted by Alan Gorham_
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Just in the interests of accuracy, let's see what the first three posts on the Gatwick drone thread said....
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E-flite units have a long history of one of the control units giving up on many forums with international contributors. Not sure I'd use them with confidence based on the reports.
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Note that only the speed controller, charger and NiCd are Futaba. The radio is a Reftec item. As far as I'm aware Futaba never offered UHF radios.
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I'd love to know how the OP would be able to follow those instructions bearing in mind he can't read the LCD display on his transmitter...
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Absolutely not. It's the individual's responsibility and not the club officials.
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Sarik offer the old Complete a Pac Skyraider which I guess was designed for an old .61 2 stroke. Should be amply powered by an 80 4 stroke. they also offer cowls and canopies, but as it's an old design I guess you might have to noodle out any required retract fitting.
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14 minutes ago, Jeffrey Cottrell 2 said:
Hi Guys, appreciate the help.
Alan, you might well be right. I have the two seater, which makes it an L, despite having 300S on the tail.
However more important is the 300S is a much bigger aircraft overall.
Span is 63" compared to 55" for mine. Overall weight for the S is 6.6 to 7.5lb, S is max 6.6lb.
Power requirement is .61 to .75 2str for the S, where the L is .46. In short, the L and the S are completely different aircraft, over and above number of seats.
Caveman
Thanks for the link, but that's not the model I have.
First page describes gluing the wing halves together with a ply joiner. Mine are in two pieces, plugging to each side on an aluminium tube joiner.
No doubt it is for a Seagull Extra 300S, but not the model I have. Either an earlier or a later version. Right at the end of the manual it describes fixing a 35mh aerial, so I would suggest earlier.
Still have no idea why, despite having a bigger motor and heavier battery than recommended I still need some weight in the cowl just to get it to balance some 25mm further back that the manual recommends.
Just one silly thought.
Manual suggests marking the c/g on the top of the wing and balancing the model upside down. I did mine on a proper balancer right way up.
Can't possibly make a difference, can it?
JeffBut then it sounds like the manual YOU refer to in your original post (CG 75mm back you quoted) is NOT the correct manual for the model you have. It would perhaps help others to answer your query on where the CG should be if you post a photo of your actual model so that we can locate the correct manual with the correct CG position or else we are all guessing!
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The OP states they have the manual and it gives CG as 75mm from LE of wing at root. Denis Watkins also posted a screen shot of a manual showing the same thing. It looks to be taken from the manual of the Seagull model with the part number SEA-199N as per the attachment. I wonder if the OP actually has this model as they seem to have bought it used (references to servos already fitted..). Either it's not the model in the manual or something else is amiss...
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The OP says his model is a 300L...
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It's pretty easy to tell as the 300S is single seat and the 300L is two seat in tandem.
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Is it possible that one of you is talking about the Extra 300S and the other about the 300L? Both variants have been sold by Seagull.
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3 hours ago, Pete Knight said:
When I first posted this item I was generally concerned with the lack of information from the BMFA and it took two attempts to get a response (luckily I had Andy S BMFA email).
The CAA continually issue Notam's for various reason's and to monitor the issues I guess would be time consuming, thank you Ron Gray for the info on Notam websites, this particular site allows you to filter locations. Perhaps a club committee member could volunteer to take up the role of checking the local area for new Notams maybe on a monthly / weekly basis.
My primary concern is the time the Notam was issued and the time the BMFA put out a notification (in this case a day before the closure came into force) I know that Andy had been in talks with the WM Police, I would suggest that more dialog between the CAA and BMFA be looked into regarding notification to the BMFA of airspace closures and restrictions.
Basically aircraft and heli flyers were forced to register with the CAA under the banner of "Drone flyers" smack's of the CB and 27meg fiasco, the authorities couldn't manage CB and with the influx of cheap drones into most superstores once again the legitimate flyer is targeted.
I hear stories coming across the pond that our colleagues in the US of A are battling potential new legislation requiring each aircraft to send out a identifying signal...transponder type thing, what happens in the States normally filters across to the UK and Europe.
NOTAM is "notice to Airmen" (politically incorrect pronoun notwithstanding). For the purposes of the Air Navigation Order model pilots are also airmen - so we have always been individually responsible for checking any NOTAMs before flight. It's not up to your committee, just as it isn't up to the committee to range check your model or ensure the failsafe is set correctly before flying. Think about it...some flyers aren't in clubs so they are on their own.
Also, if you think electronic conspicuity for models isn't on the horizon in the UK, then you might be in for an unpleasant surprise if/when it becomes technically simple/cheap...
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1 hour ago, RottenRow said:
Andy,
Have you omitted the word 'not' from the last sentence in this statement???
I hope so! As a committee member myself I would not accept the responsibility of assuring that all of our club members make themselves aware of these restrictions, and of proving that to be the case, as could be required in a court case for example.
Brian.
Andy obviously has accidentally omitted the word "not", as you point out. The statement is contradictory to the previous one about operator's responsibility for flight safety otherwise.
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Great result Chris and Byron! Totally captures the classic lines and the water handling in the video looked good.
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The simplest way to free off and dismantle an engine that is gummed up with castor oil is to warm it in the oven as the hardened castor will soften and screws and bolts will move out easily. I'd not let any kind of impact driver near the fastenings on a model engine.
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It's because he can't get any balsa to make new parts at the moment.
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Tx switches are commonly just soldered to a small daughter PCB that is just bigger than the switch footprint. A cable harness then link the switch PCB to the main board. No need to heatsink such a PCB.
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21 hours ago, Cuban8 said:
Looking at Mike's website he lists a number of 'partners' of which Hitec are included. There must be so few sets returned for servicing these days and with modern manufacturing quality, few returns under warranty. I find it hard to see how individual brands (in the UK at least) would manage to keep a viable service / repair department.
As we've discussed before, it may well be just as economical to replace a faulty item with a new replacement on warranty claims particularly if the fault is intermittent or requires a lot of labour time to complete.
Even replacing a broken switch if it is awkward to get to, requiring a fair bit of dismantling of the tranny might take an hour's labour, for which one might reasonably be asked to pay £70 per hour or more + the part+ postage etc.
Mike once diagnosed and replaced an output driver logic buffer chip in my Hitec Tx. The fault was caused by me momentarily plugging the Tx battery pack in reverse polarity. His labour and parts charges were reasonable and cheaper than a replacement 2nd hand Tx. The repair has been perfect for the last 9 years, so I'd recommend him.
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You don't have to throw money at Lipos. Just measure the battery voltage as two posters have suggested. I'd rather check the voltage before throwing money at changing bearings.
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35c rated batteries are rather low for an EDF application which I am assuming a "Viper" is?
It's likely you killed the packs and their internal resistance is on the way up, leading to the loss of performance. As above, if you check the pack voltages at high throttle settings, you will see the voltage collapsing if the packs are damaged/old.
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J Perkins are the Hitec distributors. It's entirely possible that they farm out servicing and repair work to Mike at model radio workshop rather than doing it in-house.
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Pretty sure OS won't have used a BA thread!
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2 hours ago, jrman said:
You could have set the engine further back and used a spacer behind the prop. Probably too late now.
That's exactly what I would have done too - I have done it on several occasions in fact. But it's easy to say that with hindsight.
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Surely it is perfectly possible to balance the Limbo dancer with a 3s pack and the rest of the weight made up from ballast to equal the weight of a 4s pack? You just then need to choose a suitable motor and prop combination to suit the 3s voltage.
You could always retain an Rx Nimh battery pack as useful ballast.
What plane is this??
in Vintage Kits, Semi-Kits and Plan Projects
Posted
It's a Spook, but it's hard to identify because the builder has straightened out the gull type polyhedral and fitted ailerons.