Richard V-D

I've read that in excess of 1lb of lead is required up front! I'm hoping the DLE 20 will offset that a bit. Wonderful looking aeroplane though and will be my first warbird.

Hi all. Starting to think about the next winters build already, my 1/3 scale Spacewalker should be finished by then! Never having build just from plans as the Spacewalker had instructions, I was wondering whether the 72" Tiffy would be do-able? I have a DLE 20 sat on the shelf doing nothing, and was going to use that. Given time, and the forum, I think I could, but have the plans stood the test of time? Traplet do the plans, cowl and wood pack, so availability should not be a problem. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Bit too late on the colour front, it is orange 😀 . Haven't checked the motor for size yet, that fun comes later! Happy days

Having had a wonderful Christmas, with me winning the biggest present competition , I shall start work on the Calmato shortly. I have to finish the repairs to the plane that I crashed into a fence post on landing first, and then it'll be full steam ahead. The Saito is sat on the bench awaiting it's new home. Exciting times

I hope so , 'cos I'm going to ask Santa for a Calmato Alpha 40. Fingers crossed people.

@IanN Good thinking, so I checked and the .56 can have a 11x8 as opposed to the 11x6 for the .46. Ground clearance shouldn't then be an issue in this case. The Calmato does look a good a/c, and no gluing to put it together. Yeah.

Starting to think about Christmas and getting the family to buy me a low wing trainer. The Seagull 40 gets good comments and states the usual 40/46 2stroke, or a 52 4stroke. I have a .56 Saito which is unemployed at the moment, and was wondering if that would still be ok or maybe too much. If too much, any suggestions on a suitable low wing trainer for it? Richard

Hi Ernie, So good they named it twice! Was at Cosford yesterday and picked up a tin of n/s dope from the Balsa Cabin. They had all varieties there, including banana oil. Can recommend them.

Thanks for the replies, they have helped a lot. I tested neat dope to glue the edges on a test piece and it worked really well. Tightened slightly with the heat gun, a coat of shrinking dope then a coat of sanding sealer. Brilliant! So dope it is. Cosford on Saturday to pick up bits and pieces, including some n/s dope. @jr Maybe birds feathers and wax?

I'll be at Cosford over the weekend, so will hopefully pick some up. What about the heat activated glue/dope debate about sticking the edges down? Which do you find easier?   Edited By Richard V-D on 15/07/2015 22:59:12

Hi All Having never used any one of these before, I obviously did a bit of internet investigation beforehand. Came up with this. Use the glue to attach Koverall to frame. Heat shrink Koverall to tighten. Use non-shrinking dope to seal the weave before painting. Problem is I can only get shrinking dope ( they no longer produce non-shrinking apparently). Tried one neat coat of dope on a test piece and so far so good. However I still have doubts. Now for the questions:- 1) Just use neat dope to stick the fabric to the plane and forget the glue? 2) Should I not heat shrink the fabric and just rely on the dope? 3) Heat shrink and then use a 50/50 dope to reduce the shrinkage that will occur? 4) Use something else to seal the fabric. Your thoughts will be appreciated, plus any answers to questions I should have asked, but didn't 'cos I don't know enough yet The plane is the 1/3 scale Sig Spacewalker. ( I like a challenge ) Richard

Just finished searching the web, (something I should have done before) and found that this is the case. The satellite rx. does need to be connected for the AR8000 to work. I'll leave the post up in case anyone has any comments.

I was doing some testing today on the Spacewalker I'm building, with just the main AR8000 rx. connected. Nothing worked. Just to make sure , I rebound it with no problems, but still no response from the sticks. It wasn't until I connected the satellite rx. that it worked. Question is, is this how it should be or do I have a problem with my main rx.? TIA

Thanks for the info guys. John F. We did the keep cool and let dry out thing, but as I said, no luck. Giuseppe. Looking at the tree, I can see no graft point so would think that that may be the cause of the problem. Also the thorns are quite long. As a small tree, it's fine. As a lemon tree, it's a bit pants, but we'll keep up with it, 'cos it looks fine and does have the scent of lemons about it. Perhaps we'll try a lime tree, and definitely get one that's on grafted stock.

Calling all gardeners. Our really healthy looking lemon tree has failed to produce a single flower in the three years we've had it. It is fed and watered properly (in it's pot), but nothing. Any help would be gladly welcomed. Thanks

Quick question. What the difference between A6020 and a S6020 servo. From the specs, I would say nothing, but is there?

@Martin The material is 5mm. @kc Measured with a micrometer, the drill bit is 2.47mm, and is a couple of years old (not much use though). The tap is from ModelFixings, as are the socket head screws. Just making up a shopping list for MF, which includes a couple of new 2.5mm bits. Then a few test holes and taps. Thanks for the help guys. ps  Well, as I took ages to actually post this one, more came in!    Going up a size might be viable, although 3.5mm would be the max.  As for assembly/dis-assembly, the channel forms part of the wing attachment, and so would be cycled each flying session.  An aluminium bar slides into the channel and held/clamped in place by the 3mm screws.  There are four of these assy's, one left and right and one front and back.   Edited By Richard V-D on 30/09/2014 13:54:53

Standard drill press.

I'll get a new drill bit and practise some more. Luckily the clamp holes are only on one side, so I have one more go at this bit of ally!

Drill press.

I'm one of the tap a bit, back off a bit etc etc.

Interesting Gary. The tap is also loose in the hole. Problems with the hole then?

Hi JVR, Tried a selection and all exhibit the same wobble. The thread is strong enough to hold the screw when it's clamped down, so even though it's wrong, perhaps it's not too wrong.

I have a bit of a wobbly problem at the start of my Sig Spacewalker build. Instructions say drill and tap 4-40, but I'm doing M3, in an ally wing joiner piece. Harking back to school boy metal working, I drilled the 2.5mm pilot hole and tapped with a M3 second tap. Trouble is the screw is loose in the hole. Questions are 1) Is this a function of the pilot hole being too big? 2) Is this liveable with? I've put a video on youtube so you can see.