Trevor Crook
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Posts posted by Trevor Crook
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I agree with what everyone has said about the DX6i programming - it's very straightforward. I believe the new DX7 and DX8 use the same logic.
The Futaba T6J was reviewed in a recent RCM&E - last month I think. It looks quite nice, but was criticised for having a small screen - the trim positions can't always be displayed, for instance.
One other thing to bear in mind with the Spektrums is that the DX8 is more than just extra channels - the build quality is better than the DX6i and it feels much more solid. That said, my DX6i did all I needed and nothing ever broke. I only changed it for a (old style) DX7 because a clubmate offered me a deal I couldn't refuse!
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Geoffrey
I couldn't see in your posts whether you had used heatshrink over your joint. If you don't, even silicone wire will fail as it will flex at the end of the solder and fatigue. If you cover the joint with heatshrink, the flexing will occur at the end of the heatshrink, away from the solder, and should be fine.
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Dave
I'm a believer in supporting your local model shop - use 'em or lose 'em. However, if you haven't one within easy reach, Brentford R/C seem to be Spektrum specialists. West London Models is another R/C and electric specialist in the London area. You can probably find loads of other places selling them on line. Also check out the ads in RCM&E.
E-bay is a possible source of secondhand units, but take care - there were a few service bulletins on DX6i's a few years ago, so you need to be sure everything has been sorted. The best way to buy secondhand is from a known source, so belonging to your local model club has its advantages, for all sorts of other reasons too.
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David
Regarding your earlier question on the radio gear, I haven't any experience of the Saturn gear, but I'm sure it's adequate for the basic functions. Bear in mind, though, that it's an entry level radio and if you stay in the hobby you'll probably want more functionality, model memories etc. If you want to use the AR600, look at the Spektrum DX6i transmitter. It's fairly cheap, but offers lots of functions for the money and has 10 model memories. It will also make the huge range of bind and fly aircraft available to you.
As others have said, try something a bit less ambitious before the Spit - something with a low wing and ailerons, but sport rather than scale, will be a good stepping stone.
Good luck!
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I saw these a week or so ago - Sussex Model Centre have them for £85.50, and I think they're in the Galaxy Models ad in the latest RCM&E. They look good, don't they? They also do a couple of monoplanes, but I think you made the best choice for potential indoor flying, Stephen. Let us know how you get on.
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Simon
A few observations from an electric convert. Your pricing above reflects my experience that using Chinese sourced electrics is cheaper than glow. I don't think you've mentioned whether this would be your first electric model, though. If so, remember to factor in the cost of a charger, wattmeter and a hefty 12V field battery.
I've converted several glow ARTFs to electric, and have always performed surgery to give easy battery access - if you've come from a traditional modelling background, you should manage ok.
If it's any help, my son has a 64" Seagull Decathlon that flies very well on a 700W setup.
I'm with you on the aversion to oil - my electrified Flair SE5A is a joy to take home compared to its OS40 FS predecessor from 20-odd years ago. Mind you, that did sound soooo good puttering past!
Good luck with whichever way you decide to go
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Are the HK receivers CE marked, and does this affect insurance? One of the club's I'm in doesn't allow 2.4G receivers to be a different make to the transmitter or module because of this worry, and the odd issue with cheapie Rx's (obviously mixing JR and Spektrum DSM2 stuff is ok)
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Ah - that should read "a few years"!
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ForkbeardExcellent sum up above by Simon. He's not quite correct that you have to re-bind after switching Spektrum Rxs between models though - you can re-name the model and change the control movements etc. without re-binding. However, re-binding is a good idea to set up the failsafe in the new model, and it's not exactly hard.My son and I have been using Spektrum for a few ears with no radio link issues. I started with a 6i, but had the chance of a little-used 7 about a year ago, so traded up. The 6 was excellent to use, but does seem a little flimsy, although nothing on mine broke. I haven't handled a Hitec 2.4, so I don't know how it compares. I did some instruction a few years back with a Hitec 35MHz owner, and it gave faultless service.One Spektrum gripe I have is that you have to manually start the Tx timer each time by flicking a switch. My 35MHz Futaba tranny can be set to count down from opening the throttle. No idea how the Optic timer (if it has one) works, or whether this matters to you.As others have said, they are both excellent radios for the money - see if you can compare them at your LHS - have fun deciding!
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I had one 20-odd years ago, powered by an OS40 4-stroke. Dredging my memory, I can't remember any really bad things about it, but you'll need some rudder with aileron to make it turn nicely (not uncommon with this type of aircraft). I cheated and mixed it in the tranny.
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Buying a low end Futaba set at present needs some care, because ot the apparent transition from FASST to FHSS - apparently FASST is going to be their top-end system, but there are probably still some of the 6EX etc. sets around with FASST, which means you would be locked into expensive receivers as FHSS is not compatible.This sort of issue doesn't exist with entry level Hitec and Spektrum sets.
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Ally, the motor you linked to above should be more than adequate - or you could try one of these http://www.giantcod.co.uk/cf2215-1200kv-brushless-outrunner-motor-p-403800.htmlSorry if I'm confusing you - I'm sure either would be fine
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AllyThe kind of charger I would buy is like the Imax B6 as sold here:http://www.giantcod.co.uk/chargers-c-27.htmlYou can get cheaper and simpler ones, but I would always go for one with a display, so you can see what's happening.The type of connector on servos or ESCs is almost standard these days. I say almost, because they all have the same contact spacing and orentation, but the plastic body can have two types of polarisation. The "Futaba" type has a raised rib down one edge, which matches a slot in your Rx socket. The "JR" type has no raised rib, but two corners are bevelled. This type will still plug into your Rx - just make sure the negative wire (black or brown) is nearest the edge of the Rx.
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Useful info, Frank - not too far from my guesstimate.Ally, Frank has made a good point on the Lipo size - if your fuselage can take a bigger pack, it will give you extra flight time, without too much of a weight or cost penalty.Something I forgot to mention is that the ESC will automatically cut power to the motor when the Lipo gets low, but still power the radio, so you'll still be safe to glide in and land. It's best to time your flight to avoid this, though, which you'll be able to do once you are familiar with the flight time you get for a given battery drain.
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AllyFor some reason I didn't see the photo!For that weight, a sub-100W setup should be fine. You can get cheap outrunners known as "bell" motors (because the case looks like a bicycle bell) and one of these should be fine. The prop will be bigger than the Cox one, as it won't be revving as high. So I'll revise the setup to:Brushless bell motor, 10-12A continuous rating15A ESC1000mAH - 1300mAH 3s LipoThe ESC contains something called a Voltage Regulator, that takes in the Lipo voltage and converts it to 5V for its own electronics and the receiver and servos. You just plug the ESC into the throttle channel, and it feeds the 5V down two of the three wires going to the Rx socket. Hence, nothing is plugged into the Rx battery connector.Nearly forgot, whichever motor you get, you'll need an appropriate prop adaptor.With this set-up, try a 7 x 4 or 8 x 4 prop - it will depend on the motor's kV.
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Ally, welcome to the initially befuddling world of electric flight!You don't say how big your glider is, but a power set-up of 50 - 70 watts per pound of weight will be about right. So let's assume your glider weighs 2lb, you'll want a 100-150 watt setup.A 3-cell lipo should be ok, and makes the sums easy, as you can approximate the voltage to 10V. 10V x 10A will give 100W. I'd recommend going for 150W, which would require 15A. You'll want a 20A ESC to avoid stressing things, and a motor that will deliver 15A continuously (you won't be on full throttle much, so this should be fine). The ESC powers itself and the radio gear from the lipo, you won't need an Rx battery.If you choose a motor that gives 1000-1200 revs/volt (expressed as kV) this should give a sensible prop size of, say, 9 x 4. Unfortunately, the only way to check the current and power is with a wattmeter, which will cost you around £30. Most distributers quote suitable prop sizes for their motors.You should be able to get a well specced lipo charger for around £30.I seem to have gone on a bit, so I'll summarise my guesstimated setup:15A 1000kV brushless outrunner20A brushless ESC1500mAH 3s Lipo (20C discharge will be adequate)Online suppliers will have the keenest prices, but as you'll probably need some help, try another shop if you can. Alternatively, specialists like West London Models wouls be able to advise and supply by phone.Good Luck!
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One of the clubs I'm in forbids non-CE marked equipment and 2.4GHz receivers that are a different make to the Tx/Tx module. Spektrum and JR can be mixed.I think there have been some issues with "Orange" receivers and they are worried about the BMFA insurers not covering equipment approved for use in the UK.
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Wise advice, Paul, but Major may be seriously strapped for cash, and may not want to go beyond the Sharkface for now. The Planet solution seems a good one - UK distributor with backup, CE marked etc. I've bought loads of servos, escs, motors and batteries from GC with very few problems, but I get the impression that the backup wouldn't be the same on the RC link as you'd get from a major player.The 35MHz suggestion is a good one, but as Steve said, 2.4 is more electric friendly, and the aerial easier to hide in the little Sharkface.
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Not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but a feature that (I think) is unique to Spektrum/JR DSM2 and Spektrum DSMX is Modelmatch, which prevents you from using the wrong model memory - a potential model saver. Spektrum also gives ready access to the large range of BNF models, if that's your interest. End of sales pitch from Spektrum user!In our club, most makes are used, with very few problems from any. Multiplex are the only ones to put the Tx display in a sensible place, and have very intuitive programming. As advised throughout this thread, best to get the feel of your shortlist before buying. It's also worth seeing what your friends/fellow club fliers use - if you buy the same there will be plenty of experience and advice available.
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Something that I don't think has been mentioned is the compatibility between older and newer technology from the same brand. Futaba used to be all FASST, but their low-end systems have started to use a new system with cheaper Rxs, and the two are not compatible. According to the RCM&E review, this FHSS system will be the norm on everything with less than 8 channels, the more expensive sets having FASST. Similarly JR are moving away from the Spektrum based DSM2 to their own (non-compatible) system. Spektrum have been very clever, and have improved their original DSM2 with DSMX, with forward and backward compatibility.
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Ski goggles - that's worth trying, I'll try to borrow some to see if they work. As you say, who cares about the look as we're a sartorially challenged breed anyway!
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DerekI sympathise with your sun problem, our club has a south facing flight line which we can't do much about. Your situation is slightly different, however. As a committee member for our club, I'll say that the club should be run by the membership, not the committee. If enough people share your opinion, table a proposal at your next AGM that the club moves the pilot area, if possible. During the ensuing debate, it may become clear why it is where it is - as someone said above, there may be a good reason. If there isn't, it can be put to the vote, and the members can decide.
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Yes, the Bullet is on my "to do" list - unlike the Magician I never had one in my glow days, and it's another candidate for a sleek electric nose. I don't think a 3s setup will be enough for that one, though.
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Re. the c of g, my electric version is a bit nose heavy, too - it won't spin. I've added a little lead to the tail, but not enough, so I'll try some more. It's one of the reasons I haven't tried re-propping it for a 4s battery yet. If I was building it again I'd obviously engineer the battary bay to be further back.
AR6210 Satellite Rx LED?
in Spektrum/JR
Posted
I've just bound a new AR6210 receiver to my DSM2 DX7 transmitter. Everything works fine, but the satellite receiver doesn't seem to have an orange LED in it, unlike my older 6200s. Can anyone out there confirm this is the case, or have I got a faulty one? Just thought I'd ask the community before contacting Horizon.