[Stampe SR7 building blog]

Well, it's finally finished! I've still got to select a prop size to give the power I need. It's come out a bit lardy at about 75 ounces, with battery, so I'll prop it for 450-500W. The weight probably comes from several sources. Adding flaps, heavy wheels and a bigger motor than it really needs all contribute.

I chose the powertrain to make use of some 4s 2200 packs that weren't used anywhere else, they have a similar energy capacity to the 3s 3000s that Peter used. I'm not too worried about the weight as its a bit less than my Ballerina, with only a slightly smaller wing.

 

The colour scheme is a bit of a hybrid - photos of it in the museum show black wingtips and no lettering on the wing, as on my model, but I've added the checkerboard fin because I liked it! Covering and trim are HK film, given a coat of Plastikote matt lacquer because the museum example looks matt.

 

I'll give a flight report when I've had the chance to try it.

[Torque reaction]

In my experience with electric warbirds, a major factor affecting torque reaction is prop size. I had a Durafly Me109 which had a scale 3-blade prop, and the safest way to take off was to apply power gradually, and no more than half throttle. My initial full throttle take-offs resulted in a very quick unstick, followed by a vicious bank to the left. 

I applied this experience to my Avios Spitfire, also with a large prop and loads of power, and fuss-free lift-offs resulted. Even my more modestly powered FMS 109 takes off nicely on about 60% power.

As someone said earlier, best to climb out straight and let the airspeed build before turning, then it won't matter which way you turn.

I.C. models generally run smaller props at higher rpm, this seems to generate less torque reaction.

[BMFA Classified Ad site is changing]

I wonder if it will automatically remove ads that have SOLD on them?

[Spektrum iX12 tranny]

Did you buy it fairly locally? If so, the retailer may be able to help, if only by phone. Sorry I can't be of further assistance,  my NX8 has an operating system more akin to your DX9.

[Cell levels;6S Lipo]

Both of my chargers (iMax and RCtoolkit) display individual cell voltage, are you sure yours can't be set to do the same Bas?

[Lidl Hand Drill Kit]

Blast, I was in Lidl a couple of hours ago and didn't notice them, although our smallish branch may not stock them. Like you, Robert, I have been very impressed by the quality of Lidl hand tools..

[Where do you buy your Lipo batteries ?]

Ian, I had a look on Ebay and the only Zeee 6s 4000s at present are 25C rated. Is this rating the same as the ones you use? 

[Hobbyking film tip]

Bas, sorry if I came across as patronising, I didn't mean to.

 

Kim, thanks for that update. I don't need any more film at present,  but could do with a couple of 3s 2200 lipos, so I may try ordering from HK EU as an experiment,  assuming they are in stock.

[Hobbyking film tip]

Oh, and Richard, I tried meths (on the film!) today, and as you say, it works, although it took more rubbing to remove the white line than the thinners did.

[Hobbyking film tip]

Basil, there was no duty etc. when it came from the UK warehouse. I was wondering what the extra charges were now, but so far nobody on here has ordered any from the EU.

Paul, all of mine that came from the UK was the colour I specified, fortunately. 

[Hobbyking film tip]

Hope this isn't already posted or too obvious, but here goes!

 

Some colours of the excellent Hobbyking film have a white backing. If a fairly high iron temperature is used for good shrinkage, the film shrinks but can leave a thin line of white residue down the edge of an overlap. I discovered today that this can be removed with a cloth damped with cellulose thinners. It doesn't appear to attack the film. I did try less aggressive white spirit, but that didn't shift it. Hope this helps anyone using it.

 

As an aside, has anyone tried buying their film since the demise of the UK warehouse? The EU warehouse seems to have a good range of colours in stock, priced at about £12/5m, but I've no idea what the delivered cost would be, inclusive of shipping and delivery. Even if the price doubled, it would still be reasonable value in my view. 

[Spektrum AR600 Dsm 2 receiver]

Indeed, Frank. I confess I haven't checked the brown out recovery time.

[Spektrum AR600 Dsm 2 receiver]

Yes, I would agree with the points above concerning recovery. The biggest difference I noticed when I first got DSMX receivers was that if I switched the Tx off, then back on, DSM2 receivers take a few seconds to recover, but DSMX recovers almost instantly. Never had an operational problem with DSM2 though.

[Hobby King Scam Be ware]

My favourite ARTF of all time is my Avios 1400mm Spitfire. No UK model shop has stocked anything of equivalent scale fidelity or flight performance. I never had a problem with delivery, and must have spent well into 4 figures with them. They declined over the last few years though, and ordering from the EU Warehouse is all too much hassle.

[Spektrum AR600 Dsm 2 receiver]

I've only used DSMX AR600s, but I have used DSM2 AR500s without problems. As said above, you will need an older Spekky Tx that supports it, and, of course, do the range check.

[Stampe SR7 building blog]

Both wing panels built now, here's how I've made the flaps. I used 1/16 ply with some liteply stiffeners so they are nice and rigid.

[Where do you buy your Lipo batteries ?]

Thanks chaps. Disappointing news on the Radients, Dick. I'm looking at getting some 6s 4000 packs for my Freewing Venom, so they need to deliver decent punch. I probably won't fly the model again before the Spring, so I can deliberate for a couple of months yet!

[Where do you buy your Lipo batteries ?]

I heard a good report today of HRB batteries, available from Amazon. Anyone tried them?

 

Ditto for the Radient packs now sold by Rapid RC.

[CAA Registrations]

Yep, all good now, thanks again Andy.

[CAA Registrations]

Thanks.

[CAA Registrations]

Andy, I renewed my membership today via the portal, including CAA registration. Very quick and easy, as it was last year. However, I notice in my membership area that the CAA operator ID is my old one, not the GBR-OP..... number I was given later. Do I have to edit this myself? Not a problem if I do, just don't want to mess things up. Apologies if you've covered this elsewhere. 

[Cox Stuka Control liner on The Repair Shop this evening]

I thought Steve did OK with a subject he is not familiar with. Love seeing him working on the clocks with the little lathe.

[Flashing receivers, not for the faint hearted?]

A year or so ago I bought an FrSky simulator dongle, which I concluded was flashed with V2 as it wouldn't bind to my V1 QX7. I re-flashed the Tx to V2, but this didn't fix it. I spoke to Richard at T9 and he recommended flashing them both to V1, which I did, and all was well. No idea what was happening,  but it seems you are safer just re-flashing your new Rx's to V1.

[Flashing receivers, not for the faint hearted?]

A year or so ago I bought an FrSky simulator dongle, which I concluded was flashed with V2 as it wouldn't bind to my V1 QX7. I re-flashed the Tx to V2, but this didn't fix it. I spoke to Richard at T9 and he recommended flashing them both to V1, which I did, and all was well. No idea what was happening,  but it seems you are safer just re-flashing your new Rx's to V1.

[The Works pva]

I'm currently using Gorilla PVA, it seems to give a very good bond. It also sands well. Interestingly it's a sort of beige colour, unlike most of the others which are white.