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Graham Bowers

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Posts posted by Graham Bowers

  1. 1 hour ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

    I tend to agree with Don . If you already have a load of 3s packs , you might as well use them . You can get the same performance if you use a higher Kv motor , like 900 to 1200Kv as you would with a 4s pack . 

    However , if you think about the fact that we are basically flying 55" fighters most of the time , then we want a simple and cheap set up that replaces the original 52 Four strokes . (and previous to that , the 40 size 2 strokes ).

    33004s packs are quite readily available and being mainstream , relatively cheap . 

    You could use any motor between 500kv up to 800 Kv and adjust the output with the pitch of the prop . 

    So for example , the 800k would have 6" pitch , but the slower turning 500Kv would need 9" pitch . 

     

    Putting two smaller packs in parallel literally doubles their endurance (more fuel in the tank ) , not the performance . 

    More hassle to charge and more connectors . Neither is a big deal though . 

    The kits will take either option . 

     

    What fight time did you get with the 3300 4s packs please -  a piece of string question I know due to variation in throttle use, however it'll be a data point? And for completeness, how low do you run them? 

     

    I'm going to need new packs and am considering 3300's at around 12 oz/ 350g or 3700's at around 13.5 oz / 390g . 

  2. 54 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

    Ok , Graham . 

                          In band Q they will mix you a nice size pot of valspar emulsion (Matt or silk )  I think in your case I'd go silk , but for general camo go matt . 

    Take a print off with what you want . The yellow is definetely going to be US trainer yellow but they can match it pretty closely from a sample . The red should be more like pillar box red , so definitely not an element of orange . 

    So ask them to mix a yellow , red and black . That way you can add a little black to the red to calm it down if it looks too much . 

    I dont think you will have to though if you go with my plan of heavy charcoal staining . 

    I tell you what , I will get a piece of yellow paper and weather it as a sample to send to you . 

    That'll be handy, thanks 🙂

    There's an excellent independent DIY shop a couple of miles away that does mixing so I'll pay them a visit in the first instance.

  3. On 25/11/2023 at 07:14, Ron Gray said:

    B&Q do a red and yellow that, once ‘dirtied’ as per Richard’s advice, will look close enough. 

    Thanks for that.

     

    Just had a look on the B&Q website for reds and yellows and there are lots and lots of shades in emulsion.

     

    Some are obviously a mile out, which narrows it down a bit. However if you had particular ones in mind, would you mind sharing the specifics please?

  4. 11 hours ago, Phil Green said:

    80 miles to Buckminster from here and I go as often as I can, it's a superb venue and a tribute to those who put in all the effort.

    Yes it might be a trek, but the camp site is great, I usually stay 2 or 3 days - roll out of bed & fly... Ask your golfing pals what they think of a £47 membership fee 🙂

    We're all having to make economies, surely there's something other than your hobby where you can save your £12?

    Cheese

    Pies

    It's just over an hour for me - season ticket holder. 

    • Like 1
  5. 4 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

    No , not overthinking at Graham . To my mind , the main thing as you say is to make it believable . 

    So it cant look like a brightly coloured toy for several reasons . This was a "second hand " plane and had probably been tested locally before arriving at the US base for painting . I agree with you about them using paints that were available . So you can pretty much guarantee that the yellow is the same colour as the US used for its trainers like the Harvard and Stearman . The red is probably what they used for squadron markings like the red noses on some P51s .

    I would not get too hung up on the actual colours . But , I would stain the whole lot very heavily as you can see in your picture . That will calm the yellow and red right down . 

    If you have a very cheap airbrush , (Humbrol do one you can plug into a spare tyre for about £20 )  , you can spray on streaks of Tamiya Smoke . (X19?)  

    Tamiya smoke is very interesting . It is basically a brown/grey suspended in clear lacquer . So when you do the first stripe it barely shows . But every time you go over the same space it firms up . So its easy to use as you cant really overdo it . 

    I would go over all the panel lines to make it look tired and spray random stripes in line with the airflow . 

    I like doing weathering on yellow because it has so much impact . You would see every oil drip and carbon stain . 

    Have a look at some 1:48 plastic models by googling say "yellow nose 109 "  . Gives you lots of ideas . 

    BTW in case anyone else fancies a caged bird , there are a few other cool schemes . I like the white /red one !

    Thanks Richard. Plan A is to do some practice experiments. I'm feeling quite sucked in ;-)

  6. 55 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

    Ask away Graham . 

    Thanks Richard.

     

    As indicated earlier I'm planning to go for the colour scheme of a captured example, see below.  So I need to place paint of appropriate colours in the right places. I'm not too bothered about rivet-counting-precision, however the result has to be plausible.

     

    This question is about the colors.

     

    I wondered about getting colour matches at B&Q /Wickes etc  from internet sourced image files, or maybe even being lucky enough to find a picture in a book. But then thought that the guys who re-painted this craft probably used what was handy. And what was handy was probably in the stores. So it was a military spec colour of the time. And those colours may have RAL equivalents.

     

    Am I anywhere close?  I'm probably over thinking this, however was invited 😉

     

     

     

     

    fw190 captured.jpg

  7. 1 hour ago, GaryWebb said:

    At the end of the day just like Christmas,,, Remote ID is coming and there's nothing anyone can do to stop it  Personally in all 100% honesty I support and agree with the introduction of Remote ID

     

    Not really a fan of Christmas, if the truth be told, mainly due to the commercialisation. Which coincidentally, is probably at the root of the airspace regulation - in my opinion.

    • Like 2
  8. 21 hours ago, Phil Green said:

    Beautiful, and great filming but jeez you make me nervous JR....    🙂 🙂  🙂

     

    pissypress.jpg.57d9e57353e0d2ad41d323a76b33ba9c.jpg

     

     

    Coupling the pilots head to the rudder would be cool for those canopy angles...  🙂

    Brilliant, hope to try Sutton Bank next season! (I'm a NYMRSA member)

    Phil

     

    Nice photo, I used to climb there.

     

    The obvious shadowed chimney crack and corner at the right of the photo goes by the name of "The Night Watch" and is a sensational line.

    • Like 1
  9. 2 hours ago, martin collins 1 said:

    ...........................................if a whole load of us can get together next year and get some magazine and internet coverage...........................................

    I wonder if Buckminster would be reasonably placed ?

    • Like 1
  10. 12 minutes ago, Steve Gilbey said:

    What great service I have just had from this establishment, ordered the new Twister BO 105 helicopter on Wednesday and it was dispatched and delivered the next day. You cant ask for better service than that. Well done Model Shop Leeds, I will definitely be using you again in the future. 

    One of my go-to vendors.

     

  11. 16 minutes ago, toto said:

    Learner ..... I really hope not .... this is for my tiger 60 and its turning into a real saga. 

     

    my own fault..... gutted

     

    toto 

    You could ways speak to J Perkins. The motor comes with threaded holes for that type of prop driver so if anybody is in a position to advise, it's them. I called them up when I couldn't find an item that was listed, but out of stock, and they sorted it out. Admittedly, the part you need isn't listed, as far as I can tell. Probably a badged up version of a motor sold under several guises.

     

    Edited to add, just seen your latest post. Hope it fits.

    • Like 1
  12. 16 minutes ago, toto said:

    A quick question.

     

    When I set up the watt meter between the ESC and the battery, do I need to have the wings attached to include the full weight of the model when taking readings ?

     

    I'm assuming so as you would require the full weight of the model to give an accurate total loading.

     

    Toto

    If you're taking measurements with the model static, then no. The wattmeter sees the motor load, which is battery and propeller dependent.

    • Like 1
  13. 15 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

    The chalk is not sealed in anyway . 

    Artists have used hairspray lightly dusted on to seal pastel pictures , but even a light coat of lacquer does seem to soak up the colour . 

    At this stage , for most people , I would simply say , dont get it wet or fly in the rain . My Heinkell 111 is three years old and without really taking any precautions it looks the same as when I made it . Bottom line is , keep it simple , dont overthink it .

    Thanks for that @RICHARD WILLS. Totally agree with the philosophy of keeping it simple - I just like to understand limitations in order to avoid surprises. Well, the unwelcome ones 😉

    • Like 1
  14. 1 hour ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

    What do you think ? 

    Easy Peasy or Dark Magic ?

    Id like some comments from our relative newbies as well . I think that if they can follow this simple process they may cause a bit of astir in their relative clubs . 

    I've never tried anything remotely close to those techniques, however it all seems straightforward.

     

    I'll probably make some practice items from a cardboard box. Somebody from the Amazon leaves loads on our front step 😉

     

    Edited to add. Are the black and white chalk marks sealed at all please, or just left as rubbed-in dry powder?

    • Like 1
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