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Kev Bamber

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  1. Interesting Jim, I was going to make the wing removable, but now considering a removable canopy after seeing your Skystreaks, looks busy in there. They do look good.
  2. KingKade; It's more or less ready to go but I can't get a stable engine run from my Cox. Spent another hour replacing reed, internal fuel line, gasket, little O ring, and trying yet again but still won't run steady. i'm normally pretty good with engines. When I finally get it running will post.
  3. I’m currently putting a Cox049 in one of these “Ministicks” from Hobbyking, I’ll let you know how it goes. **LINK**
  4. Thanks for the replies. Yes it does seem quite close coupled, so yes either extend the fuselage or soften the elevator throw and reduce its size. Fortunately it’s not asymmetric but I will leave the lead out of the starboard wing! Realised last night it’s also going to need modifying to allow wing removal for access for radio gear etc. The third challenge is that it’s a kit assembly plan rather than a scratch plan so I have a lot less detail than anticipated. Now if I can remember back to 1977………. Kev .
  5. As a teenager I had a Keilkraft Demon control liner. In some attempt to regain my youth, I'd like to build one again as an R/C. I have obtained the plans and before I start, wondered what advice was out there & what problems I may encounter converting a C/L plan to a flyable R/C.
  6. Again I'd be surprised if the exhaust gases are affecting the plastic pipe and bubbling cos you don't have a significant exhaust gas flow as such, just a small amount of gas enters to pressurise the tank. Can only try and rule it out. Back to the basic problem, you can run full throttle, holds okay? But can't find the low end/transition?. These bubbles, did you see them as it was running or after the engine cut?
  7. Real dumb long shot; you haven't by chance installed your tank upside down so the vents are at the bottom? I did that once after taking it out, and couldn't see the problem until took the wing off and watched when filling. That's partly why I asked have you actually looked. Kev
  8. I'd be surprised if foam mounting your tank cures the problem you describe, but worth a try if straight forward. Have you ensured you have brimmed the tank by actually looking at it after filling. I ask for two reasons: firstly it will be even less likely to create bubbles from vibration if full, and secondly your clunk should be able to pick up fuel fine no-matter where it's sitting. Oh which reminds me, have you checked your clunk is sitting correctly and not got jammed high against the back of the tank cos too long. As you can see, my thoughts are still on the lines of leaks or poor pick-up based upon the air bubbles. Your installation & engine/angle is very similar to my ASP80 in a Weston Hype, my tank is solid mounted (jammed in!), I use an OS-F plug and this works well so the install as you describe is fundamentally sound.
  9. I recently had bubbles in a fuel line from a leaking remote filler valve. I'd be inclined to look for air leaks in your fuel line, all my i/c planes have fairly rigid mounting of their tanks with no bubbling problems.
  10. Not Obsessed, just asking cos this my first petrol.
  11. My ASP 52FS shows around 9600rpm on an APC 12x6. Kev.
  12. I have a Zenoah G230PU petrol engine in a Flair Fokker Dr1.   The G230PU is one of the earlier magneto ignition 23cc Zenoahs. Starts, runs and throttles well, but pulls less RPM than I expected.   On a 20x6 Menz prop I see approx 5400rpm - definately overpopped!   So fitted smaller recommended 18x6 prop and see around 6800rpm on a static test.   Would this be reasonable or a little low for this type of engine?   Kev    
  13. Please could someone tell me the Flair Fokker DR1 recommended control surface throws and CoG.   I have just bought the plane already built, but don't have the original plans   Thanks, KevEdited By Kev Bamber on 03/10/2011 23:28:37
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