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ASH.

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Posts posted by ASH.

    The "drooling" stage?

    in All Things Model Flying

    Posted

    I start 'salivating' long before I get the model. Once I've made up my mind the model is for me the 'obsession' kicks in and the research starts... watching videos and reading countless forum write-ups. Then when I finally unbox the latest beauty the 'drooling' really starts. I put the wings on and hold it up imagining it flying through the sky (from 2 ft away)laugh. This is a serious 'addiction' I tell you. Glad I can share on here with others who understand.

    Scale models make me really drool. Afterall it's all about the 'realism'.

    The real pleasure for me lies when it's in the air. Before that it's all fantasy.

    JD8, the PZ Wildcat is a lovely little flyer (even though it's a foamy). It turns on a sixpence with rudder. Do F/G the thin plastic cowl or it'll need replacing.

     

    Edited By ASH. on 09/11/2019 16:14:06

    Classic Aerobatic Model Photo Thread

    in UKCAA Chat

    Posted

    Cheers Martin, using carbon fibre dowels and strenghtening the whole area seems the way to do it.

    So, A Space must be found either side of the section removed. I had thought of 'twist & turns' on the front but it might get complicated. Anyhoo, it's a future project - model's still in it's box..face 1

    Classic Aerobatic Model Photo Thread

    in UKCAA Chat

    Posted

     

    All beautiful models. I love the classic/retros, they look sleek.. like proper aeroplanes!

    I really like the Racketeer, the design and colour scheme are superb as with the Mama Mia. What green is that Jamie? And the Dusty Pink film Martyn?

    I have a semi-scale Seagull Piper Comanche with heavy oleos which I would like to replace with electric retracts. My main concern is with the nose retract. The front wheel obviously has to fit into a section of the wing.

    So I take it a cut out is made in the leading edge of wing? How then is the front of the wing held on to fuselage without dowels? And does this not weaken the structure to aerobatic stresses?

    How did you do it on your Flea Fli Martin?

    Edited By ASH. on 05/09/2019 19:26:14

    Broken servo arm screw

    in Hints and Tips

    Posted

    This is an interesting thread.. I have a few high torque metal gear Futaba which I'll be utilising in the near future. Never thought of using any locktight. I suppose for petrol engine models it's important. I will use PTFE plumbers tape, which is what I use on all manifold and silencer threads. It works perfectly.

    I'm sure you'll get there Don, just persevere. Dismantling the servo as suggested may be the answer.

    Seagull Super Chipmunk ARTF

    in Scale and Semi-Scale kits

    Posted

    Keith, on the PT19 you could try looping a longer carb line over the engine mount and then down and up to the inlet nipple, (securing with tie-wraps). It's worked for me. I do it on all installs. It's a fallacy to believe the carb line has to be short and direct as possible.

    You could also reduce tail weight on the Chipmunk by replacing the 2mm long heavy metal push rods with 2M carbon tubes with couplers and ball joints..

    Edited By ASH. on 19/08/2019 16:14:41

    How to Straighten Horizontal Stabilizer?

    in Hints and Tips

    Posted

    Cheers Pat, that's some serious surgery you're talking about!.. I'll think on that. I'm trying to visualize the '..loose rectangle of wood'.

    The whole joint is weak both sides, maybe the film wasn't even removed. The instructions say to only screw the tailplane on.

    Edited By ASH. on 05/08/2019 23:43:05

    How to Straighten Horizontal Stabilizer?

    in Hints and Tips

    Posted

    Cheers Bob, I know you're a master model maker.. Glad to know it's been done before.

    It's funny, I've never had a problem before buying used models. Usually it's minor work to do, re-plumb fuel lines, strenghten in places etc etc. Wings have always been square!

    I bought the Calamato outdoors, checked everything else but didn't think of attaching the wing and viewing. Never mind. Apart from this it's a cracking model. It has a SC61 up front, may run it for a few flights just to hear it scream - it's been a long while, then replace with a nice 91 4st. Just don't want to risk a dead stick with the 2st. Thinking of putting an intelligent onboard glow on to avoid that. What do you think?

    Taking your suggestions on board Bob, I will make the necessary cuts and do the job properly. I was thinking of making it an anhedral tail like the classic pattern planes face 1

    PS. doesn't look like it has an elevator joiner. the rudder definitely doesn't have enough movement for knife-edge loops etc.

     

    Edited By ASH. on 05/08/2019 23:28:03

    How to Straighten Horizontal Stabilizer?

    in Hints and Tips

    Posted

    The stab is slotted in from the rear a third of the way up. It is meant to be secured by two screws underneath which were not used. Only a small triangular section in front of the stab has the film removed so I presume it's glued there too and slots in somewhere. The fin comes fixed to the fuse. The underneath of the fuse is sheeted so not really keen on opening it up there unless I have to. The stab is out about 2cm at the tips - very noticeable.

    What do you think about triangular stock underneath for support - bit naff? An alternative is bracing rods if there is anywhere secure to fix them.

    The model is the Kyosho Calamato 60, the older version. I'll try and get some pics up tomorrow.

     

    Edited By ASH. on 05/08/2019 22:30:22

    How to Straighten Horizontal Stabilizer?

    in Hints and Tips

    Posted

    Thanks Andy, Alex. Unfortunately it's out by quite a lot. The left side needs lifting so was thinking of sawing underneath that wing half and perhaps wedging a thin strip of ply there and see if that makes much difference. Very fiddly! Otherwise I'll have to cut it all out and realign. A fine hacksaw blade is the answer.

    I am so particular on getting everything squared and lined up whenever I've put together a model. It's a basic. Now I find myself having to fix someone else's handiwork. It has to be done I can't live with it as it is. The model has a beautiful long tail moment and so deserves it.

    How to Straighten Horizontal Stabilizer?

    in Hints and Tips

    Posted

    Just bought a low wing sports model and realized the tail plane is seriously out of line and not parallel with the wing. It is also very flimsy. I want to cut it out and fix it squarely and securely. The glue used is yellow so I presume Araldite or something similar

    Has anyone attempted this and how easy is it to do?

    I just don't want to start hacking away and make a mess of it all. I was also thinking of using triangular stock underneath for more support.

    Your thoughts and opinions appreciated.

    SIG Kadet LT-40 Build - My first proper build!

    in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews

    Posted

    Hi Nu Me, I would always go with separate servos for ailerons trainer or not. Many advantages, you can use them as flaperons (both ailerons down) or better still - spoilerons (airbrake, both slightly up). It's more fun to fly slow and low as you progress. Also, you can just glide, my 3kg high winger can stand still in a stiff breeze engine on idle. So much fun. Also, you can programme in differential if you want.

    It shouldn't be difficult for you at all with your skills. Just position them correctly.

    Ps. Going off piste can be quite dangerous.. but not in this case.. 🙂

    Edited By ASH. on 23/07/2019 14:10:27

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