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Posts posted by Russ P
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Thanks. I'm really looking forward to flying her.
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Danny/Chris
I've followed your blog and was impressed with the Chipmunk so I ordered one. 3 months later I've finally received one.
Although the instructions are easy to follow, I have a question which I hope you can help with, how do you wire the landing lights. I've enlarged you photos but still can't see how you did it.
Thanks
Russ
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Thanks for the replies.
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How do I connect a Lipo for the motor and a Life to power the servos to the rx.
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Thanks I'll chech out the points raised. Plenty to think about.
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I've built a Junior 60 with 2 channels, after a few of flights resulting in crashes I am looking for some advice.
Take off is fine, but after the climb out the model continually loops until it hits the ground! On the one occasion where I was able to close the throttle at the right moment the model glided to a perfect landing, all be it a long way a way.
I assumed that the c of g is correct due to the glide being ok, and adjusted the thrust line to give a couple of washers down thrust. But it still looped under power
How much down thrust is safe, if indeed that is the issue.
Thanks
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That's a great help, thank you all.
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That sounds like just the thing I wanted. Didn't think of the fibreglass idea, sounds good.
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I think I've read somewhere you can use neoprene, not sure that's right though.
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I haven't got the plan with me at the moment. I think it says use William brothers 41/2 in or it could be 4 3/4.
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I'm building a Gloster Gladiator and thought I would build the wheels. Any advice or link to a thread giving me some pointers. Also where can I get the rubber for the tyres.
Thanks
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I think I will go with a steerable on, and redesign the tail. On the plan it shows a solid balsa block which the tail plane sits on so I'll have to think about the structure to support this.
Thanks.
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I'm currently building a Gloster Gladiator and it shows a fixed tail wheel on the plan.
I was under the impression that a fixed tail wheel hinders the ground handling, would it be better if I fitted a steerable one. This would require major changes to the rear of the fuselage though.
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Thanks for the replies. I'll go with cutting out F2.
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The only problem with cutting F2 is that the u/c and carbine are secured to it and I'm afraid of weakening it.
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I'm currently building a Gloster Gladiator and trying to work out the best position for the fuel tank.
It will only fit between the firewall and F2 in a transverse position or behind F2 which will place it on the C of G.
The question is is it ok for the tank to be transverse or if behind F2 will the longer fuel run be ok?
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Yes, they supplied the parts I requested. I think I sent them a list of parts ie F1 1/8th ply etc. They then emailed me a quote.
I'd give them a ring or email regarding what you want.
Edited By Russ P on 09/08/2018 21:37:41
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I used this service a few years ago, very good it was to. Sent them the plan, stating the parts I wanted, can't remember the cost though. A lot easier and quicker than buying the wood and cutting them myself.
Copied this from their website, it appears they still provide it.
Plan Tracing & CAD Drawing Service
At SLEC we can produce parts from customers original plans or rough drawings by copying and then tracing a digital line around the parts using CAD software, this allows the CNC cutting machines to cut following the digital line.
Please call 01953 885279 or email [email protected] to find out more information about our no obligational quoting service. -
First I went the carb route, as it is the simplest, dismantled and gave it a through clean, checked the O rings which seemed ok. Put it back together, reset the needle valve and hey presto running great again.
I did find a very small piece of debris in the needle/spray bar even though I had previously cleaned it without dismantling.
Thanks again for all your ideas/suggestions.
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I'll strip the carb first.
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Thanks for all the replies. Will work my way throughout them.
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I have been running an OS 55AX for 2 years without it missing a beat. But just recently it has deadsticked on take off.
On the bench it runs smoothly from tick over to full throttle, but as soon as the model leaves the ground the engine dies. It doesn't cough and splutter or rev as if it had fuel starvation, it just dies.
An idea I had was that it maybe a range issue, as mine is set to fully close the throttle, but it isn't this.
I have changed the plug, enya no3, the fuel tank (SLEC) and all the tubing but it still deadsticks on take off.
Any advice would be appreciated.
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I'll give the ironing a go first if unsuccessful the damping method next.
Thanks for the quick replies.
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I recently purchased a 2nd hand Flair Junior 60 kit but there is a problem with the wing ribs, they are warpped.
They are 1/16 ply and have had a weight on them for a week but as soon as I uncover them they spring back into their warpped shape.
I have thought of moistening them before putting the weight on but I not sure this would help.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
in All Things Model Flying
Posted
Having followed Danny Fenton's build blog of the Seagull Chipmunk I had to have one. After a 3 month wait whilst my order made its way from Vietnam mines ready for its maiden. Its a superb ARTF!