Derek

Thanks Steve, i used to have a Graupner 16/20 and had throttle on stick, deploy brakes with 3 way switch and if needed to abort landing, open throttle and brakes were put away, now how i did that i do not know, the 9 is new to me and struggling a bit at present.

Hello all, just changed to DX9 with AR 9310 RX, finding the input ports confusing, two rows with dual use for inputs, Help please? Can i programme throttle stick to be throttle and kill motor and use throttle stick for crow brakes, this is on full house glider with motor? More, sorry, can i programme my Hacker ESC 70 pro with jetty box or do i need card or plugging pc with( forgotten the name)?

I have just bought myself a Habu 32 EDF, in the process of assembly and have come across a problem withe the installation of the front retract set up. I am using DX7 so cannot disable the steering when retracted, my problem is when the nosewheel is retracted i cannot get enough movement and using the rudder the steering servo binds up one way, the pushrod will not stay centralized in the slot for steering, should i make the slot longer or is there another remedy?   Thanks,   Derek

Gary, Iwould appreciate an update on how you get on with the AR 9300? What was the best price you managed? Derek

Has anyone tried to modify the Ar700 or any of the multi aerial R/X, in as much as lengthening the aerials similar to the AR9300 so that they protrude outside the fuz, if this works why are we spending £130plus on these so called carbon friendly R/X?   Some one told me that the aerials unlike 35 mgs are not tuned by the length of aerial, true or false?   Thanks. Derek

PB,   Just to add, the R/X pack to switch to regulator to R/X.   Changing tack slightly, what do you reckon to the extended aerials on the ner AR 9300, or can we just extend the aerials on our other R/X, we would have four  whiskas instead of three to put outside the fuz?   Derek

PB, Well done and a very good overview of the problem , now i have it, thank you very much.   I doubt wether this model would need to be flown full chat for any length of time it is so graceful being flown slow and easy, just the odd fast hat on is good fun though.   The expo i use is from the manufacturers sheet, if there were none at all i think this model would have been in the bin in minutes, believe me it needs it, but with most models as you say less is best, i do not like using dual rates so expo is good for me, each to there own as they say.   Regards,   Derek

PB, Thanks for the detailed reply, think i have it weighed up now?   One last point on this though, how does the redundant part of this set up kick in, it is wired via two H/D switches via an 8 amp regulator, i presume if i only used one switch i would only be using 2 cells, could presume wrongly of course?                                                                                                                                                                  With regard to the electric extra, it is an awsome model to fly, still getting to grips with it at the moment so have not flown it for too long a flight, had ten minutes, put back just over 2000ma out of the 5350 packs, but not pushed the envelope yet, previous owner reckons very near the 3 Kw mark, must put the Watt Meter on and check for myself, of course this type of model is not on full tilt for too long so throttle management is pretty good, hence longish flight times, will shorten of course once the speed freak part kicks in, occasionaly, got to be done?   Having a job finding anyone with an APC thin electric prop of 24x12 dimensions, any ideas?   Never flown a model using so much expo, 40% is needed to tame it down a tad, that is per the instructions and maybe more once full throws are introduced, maybe.   Now using the Ultra Duo 50, noticed a great improvement in cell performance, even with some of my older packs, like the facility of built in balancer, and with the purpose made li-po adaptors from Gliders it is easy to set up any of my packs, charge balance all at the same time,so much more effeciant,well  worth the money.   Regards, Derek

Thanks for the info, my set up is in the 2.1m extra,  12x 5350ma flight pack, via spin 99 to hackerA60L , 24x12 APC, gives unlimited performance. The R/X pack is as per. discussion, through an 8 amp regulator, two switches, 5 digital servos, so one must charge pack via one lead, does the single bal. lead cover all 4 cells. This is the problem when you do not put it to-gether oneself.

Timbo,   Taken pics of Cells, can i send them to you, not sure how to post on here?   Derek

Thanks for the reply, checked the said pack and it is according to the label 2s?   Derek

I have a extra 300 electric with a lipo r/x pack, this is a 2s 7.4volt 4350 ma pack.   My query is, there are 4 cells in this pack 2 charge leads and 1 balance lead,   I am told to charge as 2 cells by previous owner, why are there two charge leads as i discharged via one lead thinking the other lead for the other 2 cells, not so the other lead when connected shows empty also, the bal. lead has four wires but when connected shows only two cells?   Stumped, this is supposed to be a redundant cellback up as it goes through a regulator and two switches?   Appreciate any help.   Derek

Having carbon fuz models in my fleet i was interested in the new carbon friendly R/X, has anyone used one yet?   If yes is it any good, or is it possable to extend the whiskas on the other R/X to achieve the same result, ie, whiskas sticking outside the fuz, do not need to be to long as most F3b/j fuzelages are quite narrow?

As LI-PO cells have now been in use by modellers for some time now, has anyone discovered anyone who will carry out repairs as in, usually one cell in the pack goes down, expensive to replace some of the now widely used big packs, 5000ma 6 cell set ups, surely the duff cell could be replaced by some one with the relevent know how? Any ideas??

New ESC's have an anti spark device in situ, dont see the need for that extra wiring, my diode is connected to the pos, with a loop made with the end leg back on itself, all you do is connect up neg, touch the pos. connector to the exposed loop and make connection, bingo job done>

Be carefull using cheap copies of gold connectoors especially on high power set ups, the final connection which gives a hefty spark(unless you have a diode fitted)can melt these cheapies, my personel preferance are gold connectors as i find that a clean connection is nigh impossible with deans, once again as i use 50 volt packs this can confuse the ESC, having said that one of my wiring harnesses has deans but they are the first to be connected then the 5.5mm gold after touching the diode first, clean spark free connection every time. The more modern ESC's i believe are fitted with an anti spark device?

Talking to a chap at the Nats. who was telling there are supposed to be a new generation of Lipos coming to the market place, anyone heard anymore about this? Supposed to be lighter-more powerful and probably more expensive. Just a quickie on balancing, i have been using a couple of packs for a while now and after charging checked the individual cells with a voltmeter, all within.1 of a volt, so why do we go on about balancing so much, no need if cells show what i am getting? Some of my packs take a right hammering with no signs of imbalance or capacity loss?  Cheers, Derek

Keep on trying , one day my luck may be in???

Not been into the 2.4 for long and was interested in using it in a carbon kevlar fuz, any experiances from anyone would be of interest. Do the aerials need to protrude through the fuz. or is it safe for them to be all internal, bearing in mind there is not a lot of room in the fuz of an electric glider. I seem to recollect a diagram of a fuz showing how to mount the twin r/x with cutouts in the fuz. but cannot find it again, any ideas. Any info much appreciated. Happy landings, Derek

Thanks to you all for your advice, read and understood, i have had good response to any query on the forum and all sound stuff. Keep up the good work.

Here is a question for all who fly using the DX7, i have seen many pilots,including top line show pilots using the DX7 with the T/X aerial not in the upright position, this was also shown on a video by Tamjets of a pilot fling a high power very fast EDF jet with no apperent problems. Is this the correct way or is there something to be gained by not having the aerial straight? Another question, is the green light supposed to be on at the bind button, only going off when pressed for binding? Last night i was flying my EDF Sabre, going away from myself, not too far and the motor cut, no control over the model at all for a couple of seconds, then all back in control, this happened twice, unfortunately i did not check wether the light was flashing on the R/x, if it was does this signify a signal loss? Worrying to say the least as i thought that 2.4 was near bulletproof? Any comments appreciated. Glad i went out last night as the weather has taken a turn for the worst here in Lincoln. Fly safe and happy landings. Derek

Can anyone point me in the right direction with regard to fixing the acetate canopy to a fibreglass frame,this is something new for me? Many thanks, Derek

As  user of air operated retracts and all the pain that usually comes with them, has anyone heard of  a servoless electronic air valve? Thought i heard about one being mentioned but cannot find out anything. Thanks, Derek

I will give it a whirl too.

I am fairly new to the Spektrum DX7 and i am struggeling setting up my electric Graphite V tail, so far, rudder elevator on V ok, ailerons ok, flaps ok, linked gear channel to flap ,aux 1, mix flap to elevator ok, now this is were iam stuck, unable to achieve up aileron with flap down(butterfly) get one aileron going up the other down, got elevator to mix in for down with Butterfly, next, unable to get thermal trim or speed trim( aileron up with flap up and vive versa). Seems a bit jumbled i hope someone can help? The other question is, how will the r/x work in this fuz. as there is a lot of carbon, i thought of having the aerials just out of the fuz via tiny holes, may need to do this anyway to avoid bending the aerials? Thanks, hope some-one can help i cant be the first , cant see any other threads to help? Regards to all, safe landings, Derek