Rick Tee
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Posts posted by Rick Tee
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I put some of my batteries in with Velcro, only issue I've had was where the battery had been secured at the top of the model. Stress must have been applied with each landing eventually the battery came loose, not because the Velcro gave out but because the heat shrink on the battery broke.
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Thanx for the info there Ted, very interesting. I had been thinking about getting a Nissan NV200 van now I'm not so sure.
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I know this thread is old but Bandit did ask for a picture of turbulators and as I now have some fitted to my Seagull Extra 300s I thought I'd pop a pic in here:
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I'm in complete agreement with Cuban8, we had a University student at our club a couple of years ago working on this kind of equipment, I found it fascinating.
Our club follows the BMFA guidelines as such does not allow mobile phones on the flight line.
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Just to clarify the council position: here in Plymouth i contacted the local council with regard to flying models in parks or open land some years ago. I had no problem getting a reply, what they told me was: no model aircraft of any kind may be flown within the city limits. Their response to a request for a suitable flying site was: we have nothing suitable.
Councils are NOT under any obligation to provide a site for flying model aircraft or any other sport.
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That's a cracking job there Gary.
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Thank you, found it now. Unfortunately I see you don't allow dogs and I don't have anyone to leave the dog with...maybe next year.
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Hmm is this your home page? **LINK**
Cause I don't see a link to an events page, or a map.
Edited By Rick Tee on 07/09/2015 04:54:29
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I use .5mm stainless wire on a 914mm bow. Rene 41 is probably the best wire to use if you can get any. You may need something to control the current from your power supply.
Edited By Rick Tee on 10/08/2015 12:37:52
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The process i go through when trying to come up with a color scheme is: start by looking and a range of similar models and full size. I'm only looking for shapes at this point. Then i look at what colors i have already, see what looks good together and go for a 3 color scheme to keep the cost/complexity down. Do some sketching and finally draw up and color in on a cad package. That way i can print actual size patterns to cut the film to.
The fuselage for the bottom pic wings is not yet finished. Nothing spectacular but I'm happy with them.
I believe pro film is polyester. Films i have used are pro film, easy cote (kote) and solar film. Pro film is twice the weight of solar film, if its an ultra light, weight critical build I wouldn't use pro film.
Edited By Rick Tee on 05/07/2015 09:14:52
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A quick Google got me this: **LINK**
As the model is based loosely on the Extra you could also look at the full size for ideas.
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If the fuel tank is as near to the firewall as you can get it, the clunk is free to move and no more then 5mm from the back of the tank, the brass tubes have all been annealed before and after bending (inc any straight ones), the fuel tubing is as short as possible, has no tight bends and has the correct ID for the engine (standard seems fine with the 91, 2mm ID ish) and the centre line of the tank is aligned with the centre line of the spray bar. Assuming you have run the engine in in accordance with Saito instructions and likewise set the engine up with a tacho following Saitos guide. Then its probably overheating.
I had this problem with a Saito 91 in a World Models Tucano I put together last year, after a few minutes in the air the engine stopped responding to throttle above half. I throttled off flew a round for a bit and tried again bingo working fine. I opened up the hole in the front of the cowl and cut a much bigger hole in the bottom around the engine, problem solved.
I did find the 91 was better on a 13x8 then the 14x7. If you got the prop size from here: **LINK** i find his all too big, (Saito 56 11x7, 72 12x8, 91 13x8, 115 14x8, all tested with a tacho and run at 9500rpm - 10500rpm peak.)
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Go here: **LINK** to convert just about anything.
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Posted by Donald Fry on 15/06/2015 19:18:03:
Rick, why?
Engines dying at tick over can be caused by the plug cooling off, which is one of the reasons for fitting an on board glow (though usually with large, inverted 4 strokes). Fitting a hotter plug may help if that's the cause. Checking the engine settings are spot on with half a tank is the first thing I'd try. You can also try re-plumbing the tank using the uniflow system, which takes the fuel mass out of the equation (constant flow full to empty) but will require 2 one way check valves to prevent flooding when closing the throttle.
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You could also try a hotter plug, OS6 I think, might help.
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Drill another hole in the firewall inline with your throttle arm.
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Yes, use finishing resin, you want a join which is flexible, strong and light. 5min epoxy will not give you that. Google info on how epoxy resins set. Basically the longer an epoxy resin takes to set the stronger and more flexible it will be, traits you want when joining wings, reinforcing fire walls or undercarriage mounts.
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Try with the Tx at least 2mtrs from the Rx, had this problem with Spektrum, guessing its RF swamping. Don't know how true this is but I did read somewhere that florescent lights can interfere with binding.
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It's a fire lighter.
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Prolly wrong but is this Spektrum radio gear? if so do you have the throttle trim all the way down?
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There was a kit to build a CNC router which used a dremel some place too but i don't have the link.
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I use exterior varnish which is oil based, its fuel proof but not completely clear. I have tried several makes of water based varnish none of which proved to be fuel proof, they resist fuel for a while then go soft, sticky and discolor You may have problems getting oil based paints to bond to water based paint.
A delicate question
in Flying Sites and Clubs
Posted
I believe the club committee can ask him to re-sit his 'A', might be one route you can take.