Rick Tee

Not a great idea to put email addresses on a web page, easy for spammers to collect using spiders (bots). Better to use a form via a php or cgi script. That way your email is hidden and can't be discovered by scanning the page or its source. Few ideas here but many can be circumnavigated by bots: **LINK**

Hi Chris, I'm one of several instructors at Eddystone Model Flying Club here in Plymouth. Pop along and have a chat with the members. **LINK**

PVA and epoxy here, I buy 4litre can of builders exterior PVA from a builders merchants, decant into a squeezy bottle that once contained PVA. Hot glue is great for holding things in place while they set as it's easy to peal off after. Epoxy for areas likely to be under high stress like firewalls and U/C mounts. Edited By Rick Tee on 03/10/2018 07:29:01

Flashing the X6R to X8R_LBT_build151118 seems to have done the trick.

With the Rx I flashed to the latest EU LBT (X8R_EU_build1702102) I get RSSI warnings low RSSI and critical RSSI at less then 20 paces facing the model, any further gives the critical RSSI warning then loss of telemetry but the model still responds to input. I've just flashed another X6R to X8R_LBT_build151118 I'll test it tomorrow if the weather forecast is correct. Thanx for the help.

I recently bought a Taranis Tx and some receivers X6R and X8R , when range testing the X6R I reached about 20 paces before getting RSSI warnings while facing away from the model, at 40 paces facing the model RSSI was around 45 - 48 but the model responded fine to controls and flew with no issues. Couple of days ago I received 2 more X6R's but somehow I'd made a mistake with the order and they are not EU LBT. I flashed one to EU LBT and fitted it to a model. But when range testing I could not get 20 paces without getting a RSSI critical alert. Tried rebinding and having someone hold the model off the ground but no change. Is this a telemetry range issue and is it ok to fly if the range check is ok otherwise? It does look like I should have bought the RX8R receivers instead.

I have the World Models Tucano with a Saito 91 up front, not the greatest quality, took a lot of fettling and the sticky backed covering is high maintenance. Flys beautifully though and looks really good in the air.

I have the K & S one good for up to 5mm wire can't remember what I paid for it but pretty sure it wasn't £36.

Best to find a club and pay them a visit to see what gear they are using and get some recommendations before spending any money. A list of BMFA affiliated clubs can be found here: **LINK** As you're near Plymouth take a look at: **LINK**

Posted by fly boy3 on 21/03/2018 21:12:47: How does a call guardian phone work, do you have to log all the numbers that you know are ok ? Cheers Default settings may vary for different call guardian phones. Mine automatically blocked all calls from non UK exchanges, if you expect to receive overseas calls you will need to add then to the allow list. Any other nuisance calls you can add to the block list or block all calls and add ppl you know to the allow list. All new callers will be asked to give their name before your phone will ring, most seem to quit at that point. When you answer a new caller you will be given their name and asked if you want to; add the caller to your allow list, allow this caller once only or add the caller to your block list. Only catch is you have to have caller ID which here costs approx £3 a month. Just blocking overseas exchanges stopped over 90% of nuisance calls for me. One other thing I forgot, mine has a built in phone book anyone added to the phone book will be automatically allowed and not have their call intercepted by call guardian.   Edited By Rick Tee on 22/03/2018 08:25:04 Edited By Rick Tee on 22/03/2018 08:51:50

As far as I can tell TPS does nothing, they can only take action against a company that calls via a UK exchange, when the call is confirmed to be sales and is cold calling. Companies simply say it was a canvassing call to circumvent TPS. I'd be surprised if TPS ever fined anyone. When calls here started to peak at 20 a day I bought a call guardian phone and it all stopped.

Thank you for all this info and the Vulcan thread. Been running some numbers on my current models now need to go check some weights. Cracking stuff.

I have done with dxf files exported from Profili.

Plenty of help out there, a quick google of qcad tutorials brought up a good few links. I didn't find it particularly difficult to learn YMMV. I think there is a thread on here about various CAD programs, many though are not cheap. If you want 3D FreeCad is erm free, I've not really taken a good look at it yet as I find 2D is fine for my needs. I've looked at some others like Turbocad but they are either above my budget or gave me a headache. Oh and QCad has a free version so you can play all you like before spending any money. Edited By Rick Tee on 25/02/2018 16:12:55

I use QCad here, basic 2D Cad. If you register for a fee it will print drawings on multiple pages. CAM is also available.

I've just had a delivery from them, always been great service.

I agree with David Davis, for my two penny's worth I'd go further and suggest your best bet is to buy a Boomerang artf and an SC46 or ASP46 engine. An IC engine with a 10oz tank will give you 15mins - 20mins of flying. Allowing your instructor to take off, trim, hand over, giving you at least 10mins on the sticks with plenty left for landing. Also as soon as your instructor is available again you only need to re-fuel and go. With electric you'll need 3 batteries to maximise your time flying rather then waiting for batteries to charge. You'll get 7mins - 8mins flying time, once your instructor has taken off and allowing time for him to land it for you, you'll be lucky to get 5 mins on the sticks. Add to that very light models require very little wind, waiting weeks for the right conditions will drastically reduce the rate at which you learn. I've been a club instructor for 10 years+, people who learn quickly do so by flying 4 - 6 times each visit, visit often and use a good sim (preferably not Phoenix). My advice is to visit the club before you buy anything. Edited By Rick Tee on 05/01/2018 14:09:42 Edited By Rick Tee on 05/01/2018 14:13:47

If you downloaded Clearview from their home site: **LINK** Then you can be sure its a false positive. I have been using Clearview a long time with no issues. I believe the top virus/adware software atm is TotalAv. Edited By Rick Tee on 01/01/2018 14:24:42

Eddystone Model Flying Club rent a field at Staddiscombe, Plymouth: **LINK** Pm for more info. Edited By Rick Tee on 31/12/2017 09:23:36

Bruce, Thank you will take a look.

Bruce Collinson; I'm interested in the glasses you mention, a source would be good. I use polarized sun glasses but it does mean looking under them to see the TX screen. Edited By Rick Tee on 23/11/2017 07:28:40

Throttle control arm loose.

It's been a long time since I built a kit but what you describe is exactly as I remember them, wrong wood, don't fit, missing parts, spars of entirely different woods (using them guaranteed a warped wing) etc. Not tried a modern, laser cut kit yet, but the old die cut kits were not great, the main reason I moved on to building from plans and bought a balsa stripper so my spars came off the same piece of wood.

Similar to Jeff, there were no artf's when I started so built from kits, graduated to plans. Now I do have some artf's but still build from plans.

This engine is prone to breaking prop drivers, the old version had a tapered crank this one has a D type crank but the prop drivers have a little too much clearance leaving enough slack for a kick back to break the prop driver. I still have 2 spare prop drivers in my flight box from when I owned one. After breaking 2 I shimmed mine with a bit of beer can which seemed to solve the problem. I suggest you check the D in the prop driver for a crack in the corner.