Geoff S

Considering the quality and detail, that's not too bad. I may raid the piggy bank. My bank (Nationwide) has gifted me £200 this year (and my wife, too) so it may be put to good use 🙂

Looks stunning (and horribly seductive for a winter build - even though I have a DB Moth). Any clue as to pricing? Does anyone else have difficultly viewing the images? A lot of them are grey squares and I have to keep reloading the page to see them.

I set up a secondhand Blackhorse Sukhoi 31 1.4m ws, some years ago, setting the CoG exactly as the downloaded manual specified. It was an exciting maiden! Somehow I managed a circuit and landed it OK - in fact the very sensitive elevator actually made it easier. I researched further and found a review from one of the mags where the reviewer had exactly the same experience as I had! So the manuals aren't always right. A bit of lead cured the problem. I've still got the model but, as it's got an Asp 53 glow engine, it hasn't been flown for years.

Like many here, I've built from both kits and plans as well as a try at a couple of own designs, yet I also assemble ARTFs and so have a reasonable idea of what's right as regards incidence. I have a Robart incidence meter that gets used a lot and I've also used my phone - I prefer the Robart mechanical meter.

The first 'super glue' I came across was at Rolls Royce where Eastman 910 was used to stick down strain gauges for rig and engine tests. That was back in the 1970s and that, too, was quite expensive. The gauges usually didn't stay in place for the whole test but it was a harsh environment 🙂

I saved the instructions (mainly links) for converting server power supplies for 12v sources for battery chargers. Great value for money (IIRC mine cost less than £20 on eBay) - I'm still using the one I converted for both my LiPo chargers. PDR had the annoying characteristic of usually being right 🙂

I suspect even very small dinghy control-line cleats are likely to be too big for an average model (I've still got few as hang-over from my sailing days). What's the problem in using a Velcro strap? Unlike sticky-back Velcro used with similar on the battery, they're easy to undo.

That's him! Memory's not so good these days 🙂

I used a DiY Frsky module to make a 2.4gHz adapter to my Multiplex 3030 transmitter and a plug-in module into the back of my FF7 Super (the old one with 4 model memories IIRC). I got my first Taranis from Giant Cod (or Shark) when they were first introduced. We (my wife and I) went to an RCMF fly-in at Winterton as well. I'd forgotten that one. It's a pity it faded away. Several times I made what was a slightly controversial post to try and stir things up a bit but to no avail. Wiz was pretty good guy and put a lot of effort into RCMF. There was one very knowledgeable guy on there who I was proud just once to win an argument with re closed loop controls but it was rare. His name escapes me but he was employed in aerospace.

The forum I used quite a lot was RCMF (Radio Control Model Flyers) run by Nigel Hancock under the user name Wiz. Apparently Wiz had problems on some sites because the second syllabub of his surname flagged up shocking content. It was very active for several years and there were a few fly-ins; I remember one at Old Warden in 2005 (I have a DVD). Simple search and replace can have some odd effects if you don't include spaces to isolate the word and avoid anomalies like 'ensharkers'. I particularly like the confusion between entrails and contrails 🙂

IIRC the Multiplex Funcub flap servos are installed as mirror images of each other, like the aileron servos. It annoyed me when I put mine together because you have to use a separate channel for each flap rather than use a Y lead. Fortunately I had channels to spare but it would have been easier had they both been installed the same way. It still gets flown a lot after perhaps 7 years and 100s of flights.

A good idea. I usually use a plastic bag held in place with an elastic band. Ron, good ideas often come from lazy, but clever, people 🙂

I realised that. I was just indicating how it gets a lot easier and quicker with increased use.

On my Horus (and the Taranis before it) I usually just duplicate an existing model, rename the copy, and make a few minor adjustments (like resetting all the channel values etc) and go from there. It takes no time at all. It means all the bells and whistles like my motor inhibit switch, or rate switches, timers etc are the same for all my models.

I was tempted (I tried to resist but, as usual, failed!) when I saw that HK had Slowcoaches on offer for £125 inc postage (they're £146 today!). It arrived in a big box on Tuesday. Mine was missing a pilot but HK very quickly sent me a new cockpit with pilot installed which arrived this morning just a couple of days after I made my claim. I wasn't happy with the means of securing the battery safely so I made a liteply tray with a Velcro strap and sticky back to hold the LiPo It's held in by a 4mm cap head screwing into a 'T' nut I fitted under the fuselage. Here it is installed in the fuselage The battery lead from the esc was very long (and not very thick) so I cut it by about half and soldered on a new connector. It's still about 100mm long - more than enough. The other issue is that there's no indication of control throws, so I've guessed reasonable amounts. Assembled as per the instructions to the outer holes on the horns the movement is outrageous so I've used copious amounts of travel restriction using my transmitter. Once I've had a flight I'll make mechanical adjustments. Just waiting for the wind to moderate. CoG is OK without ballast with battery (3S 2200 LiPo) as far forward as possible. There's plenty of room for bigger batteries. The supplied prop size isn't marked but it's 12" long and, I'm guessing, 6" pitch. It needed a bit of balancing.