Geoff S

IIRC this P38 flown by a club member back in 2006 was equipped with RCV engines. Luckily, Dave is very good pilot and managed to get it in safely on one engine.

My wife loves this picture of her former workplace - as well as the aeroplane, of course 🙂

All this WR talk is embarrassing. I have a Hurricane kit, untouched since I bought it on a whim 5 (?) years ago. I should build it. One of the things that put me off was finding and installing retracts. I have thoughts on using a launch dolly and belly landing as several of the FW190s did at Buckminster but retracts would be better. Any recommendations for electric ones (The Hurri will certainly be electrically powered.)

I'm surprised that it's gone this far (3 posts!) before someone mentioned MDS 40. The one I had probably delayed my learning to fly RC by about a year.

You could try a SLEC/Precedent Funfly. I passed my 'A' with one powered with a ST34 glow engine but they do an electric version now and the wings are built-up rather than the foam when I built mine. They fly very well.

Ken Moss is a member at Ashbourne and a keen F3a flyer. Was he there?

Looks like I picked the right day for my visit. It was an excellent event and combined with my being able to pick up some wood fro my current J60 build made for a great day out. There was almost no traffic either 🙂 Well done to all involved - Ron, of course, and all the fliers who entertained me. Who know? Next year I may be sufficiently back in the groove to fly myself (despite being a year older!)

A work colleague was driving to work in his Reliant 3 wheeler when a deer jumped over the hedge onto the bonnet of his car then over the road and over the other hedge never to be seen again. It didn't do much good to his car but had the courtesy to leave a few hairs in wreckage of the fibre glass which my colleague dutifully attached to his insurance claim form with a bit of Sellotape. I saw the form with deer hair attached but I don't know if his claim was accepted.

I bought my Junior 60 rib set from them (via eBay) and they're very good with decent quality balsa. My only gripe is the price (£44 posted) but balsa's expensive these days and it not only saved a lot of time but they're much better than I could have cut by hand. IF that is all the wood for a Puppeteer then it'll probably be better than the die-cut originals.

Looks interesting. Looking forward to tomorrow!

I'm aiming for Saturday, too. We're 50 miles away by road, less as the crow flies (WNW roughly) so the weather at home isn't likely to be much different so I'll make a suitable judgement. I admit SLEC's attendance is a big draw as it saves postage (though not fuel 🙂 )

I must be lucky because I've bought several unstarted kits from various sources, including eBay but swap meets, too and they've all been as described.

Dependents what you mean by masking tape. The paper stuff certainly varies in stickiness - sometimes the adhesive is stronger than the paper and it's impossible to get off the roll without tearing. In any case, as masking tape it's just about useless (I use it mostly for temporarily holding things in place). For actual masking edges for painting I've found Frog tape as sold in B&Q to be pretty good with little or no seepage.

That had crossed my mind, too, at the risk of horrifying purists 🙂 I did a similar thing when I built a Limbo Dancer from the plans of the kit version I destroyed. I found it difficult to get it to balance on the first build. 40mm is quite a lot to add but if it saves weight ... Worth thinking about.

Somehow I inadvertently clicked on a link here and arrived at this picture. Does anyone actually tighten/loosen a prop nut using a pair of pliers?