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BB

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Posts posted by BB

  1. Posted by Spice Cat on 01/01/2012 22:32:10:
    Posted by BB on 01/01/2012 22:21:18:
    Posted by Spice Cat on 01/01/2012 21:59:22:
    Like the idea of home made stuff a lot. Hopefully not hijacking the thread but when it comes to cuttnig excess covering; what have the good readership invesnted for the job?
    I have been using crafty cutters from SLEC but find them not the easiest of tools to use.
    Your thoughts please.
     
    I've used a scapel with the handle as a depth gauge, alternative is a ' plane' blade half of which is wrapped in cheap insulation tape to a depth to suit, works fine when cutting along a fuz or wing span. Just change the blade regulary.
    BB
    Cheers, my edges normally look as if they have been cut with a chain saw..
     
    Also worth remembering to 'tack' 4-8 " apart, the edges first. And regard to wings, tack across the cord, not the length as you'll introduce an angle ya just can't iron out ! And a heat gun will make 'that' mistake worse!
     
    I change the blade often ! Sometimes after every lengthy continuous cut Spice Cat. Its about as close to a garantee your gonna get for a clean cut. Don't care what anyone says about blade wear. Use a blade once on film. Its never as sharp as when used on that first cut.
     
    And when using a heat gun, use the coolest setting first, and from a distance.
     
    BB
    BB
     
     
  2. Posted by Spice Cat on 01/01/2012 21:59:22:
    Like the idea of home made stuff a lot. Hopefully not hijacking the thread but when it comes to cuttnig excess covering; what have the good readership invesnted for the job?
    I have been using crafty cutters from SLEC but find them not the easiest of tools to use.
    Your thoughts please.
     
    I've used a scapel with the handle as a depth gauge, alternative is a ' plane' blade half of which is wrapped in cheap insulation tape to a depth to suit, works fine when cutting along a fuz or wing span. Just change the blade regulary.
    BB
  3. Crikey KC,  I wish!  Some really excellent stuff there.
     
    My 'very' small contribution
     
    I make my own 'permagrit' tools. Course sandpaper glued to straight & curved edges covered in various coats of epoxy. I apply a coat of epoxy and wipe off the excess. Applying further coats to get to a fine finish.
     
    I use lolly sticks,dowls (various sizes of scrap), any shape that I think will be handy. Used a cut in half baco foil carboard inner tube cut along its length for doing leading edges etc.  Even used a (cut along its length) carpet roll inner carboard tube to get a shallow curve, just cut it along its length to suit.  No ! not the 'whole' tube, just a 1' length.
     
    Pound shops often sell packs of 50 A4 sized sheets of Sandpaper as well as the Epoxy. I soak the course paper in boiled water for about 10 seconds, bend around a curved (convex/concave) edge then dry with a heat-gun quickly ( stops the paper & grit falling off/disintergrating).
     
    Very handy: And no where near as costly.
     
    BB 

    P.S.  A mate I know who owns a garage/paint shop has done the same but uses paint instead of Epoxy, a few coats - job done.  Not sure if it lasts as long as Epoxy.  But he has easy access to more paint !

    Edited By BB on 01/01/2012 22:07:17

  4. Theres loadsa 'copyright free' music on the web if you search that phrase. But, if you are talking about that favorite track on your favorite CD, you'll be infringinging copyright rules by using it.
     
    I tend to download music from YouTube that carries an itunes listing, seen just below the main screen on the right. This means its for listing & playing in your region. It'l mean you will end up with a brief advert on your vid. They will send you a notice of a 'possible' copyright issue. It will either be allowed, with an advert. Or, disallowed and removed. If, so, just add another.
     
    Youtube also gives you a choice of tunes you can use from their copyright free list. Pick the genre and length depending on your own preference and video length.
     
    E.G; One of mine.
     
     
    BB

    Edited By BB on 29/12/2011 20:53:15

  5. Posted by graham kindberg1 on 25/12/2011 06:18:25:
    Merry Christmas every one,
    and yes Santa was good to me
    all the best from Australia
    Graham
     
    Please, please don't 'leccy it !
     
    Just an opinion forumnites. 
     
    Happy Crimbo from us Lime eating pommies. Great looking piece of kit.
     
    BB

    Edited By BB on 26/12/2011 21:20:38

  6. Posted by GrahamC on 14/12/2011 16:30:50:
    Hope you get it sorted soon. Just to mention though, I think you might find the Seagull Decathalon is going to be a bit borderline with that engine. (if thats what you are buyinng it for.) I have an Irvine 53 in mine and she still takes a good long run to get off our grass strip. It's a big old plane for the money, and the fuselage is massive compared with your standard trainer that might suit a 46. A hunt around the net will show quite a few 70 4strokes being used too.
    The .46 isn't for this plane. Which makes things doubly unfortunate !
    BB
  7. My opinion is that if you show stock in. then you deliver on that honour as advertised. Now, in the ordering process they did ask for a call number. I chose to forego this. I did however give an e-mail address ! They chose to ignore this, until I called them.
     
    I excepted the £8.99p delivery charge based on their 'next day' delivery charge via Fed-Ex.
     
    Turned out to be a Joke. Still waitiong !
     
    BB

    Edited By BB on 14/12/2011 14:10:01

  8. I ordered a Seagul Decathlon from Elite Models on Thursday 8th.
     
    Website showed the item as 'in stock'. I also ordered an SC .46.
     
    Given that both items were showed as 'in-stock' on their web-page, (other items as not in stock). And given that they showed a 'Fed-Ex' delivery of 48hrs at £8.99p I expected delivery at the latest by Saturday.
     
    Oh no. I called Monday the 12/12/11 and was told they were expecting to pick the item up from their suppliers on Tuesday!
     
    So, thinking that I had paid £8.99p for 'premium' postage. I expected the goods to arrive today ! Not so !
     
    Though according to their website I should have got the goods last Friday/Saturday.
     
    Bad Service. Will Never Use Again !
     
    It is now Wednesday 14th 2011. They have not contacted me once!
     
    And the shop is closed ! No answer, machine service.
     
    This All Tantomounts to service without provision.
     
    My advice - Do Not go online if you can't provide the custom or communication !
     
    BB
     

    Edited By BB on 14/12/2011 13:52:30

  9. Posted by Ross Clarkson on 09/12/2011 01:56:29:
    Hi all,
     
    Due to personal circumstances, this will be on the classified's tomorrow.
    Never flown, immaculate and all electrics and engine included.
    Fully completed and ready to go.
    Sad times!!
     
    Sorry to hear that Ross. Mines still in the box. Think I'l wait till it has 'classic' status before I put it together.
     
    Hope things improve for you soon.
     
    BB
  10. Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 05/12/2011 14:29:43:
    The down going aileron creates lift - more lift equals more drag. So if ailerons move equally then the wing on the down-going aileron side (the outside wing in a turn) will experience more drag which will tend to yaw the model so its nose points out of the turn. This is called "adverse yaw".
     
    Adverse yaw doesn't just look ugly it brings other problems; it promotes side slip which increases overall drag. Also if the model has dihedral the effect of the side slip will be to try to roll the model out of the turn. All in all this is not desirable.
     
    Two methods for dealing with it;
     
    1. Live with it but must use some rudder in the direction of the turn to counteract it, effectively countering the adverse yaw with oppisite rudder induced yaw. Makes for nice flying problems if you like that sort of thing (I do) where you have to judge just the right amount of rudder to use - you can mix the rudder in with ailerons of course but I feel I'm cheating if I do that. (Just me - I'm not critising anyone else - if you like mixing rudder that's fine).
     
    2. Alternatively, by letting the down going aileron have less travel you balance the drag between the two wings better. Up-going ailerons make some extra drag as well - but not nearly as much as down-going ones - becuase of the lift effect of a down-going aileron.
     
    Hope that helps.
     
    BEB
    Used 60/40 & 70/30 & 65/35 on my Wot 4. 60/40 worked best.
    BB
  11. Posted by Alan 4 on 01/12/2011 21:00:01:
    nowt like a total wreck to save the shall i rebuild it or not thoughts, shame, but move on, about your engine, zenoahs are great things, but, along with many others, are prone to displacing the crank when they get a belt, well worth checking over
     
    Good point Alan. Engine is still in a bag, out of sight. But, will get round to checking it out soon.
     
    The replacement is a Glens model Maule 74" - Crow braking & Flaps on this one
     
    BB
  12. Posted by Steve Hargreaves on 01/12/2011 15:15:05:
    A 4 stroking 2 stroke doesn't sound good to me...it sounds like its running rough....because it is!!!
     
    The basic idea behind running in a 2 stroke by making it 4 stroke is to get extra fuel & hence oil through the engine....the fuel evaporates taking heat with it whilst deposting the oil onto the working surfaces. (Not to be used with "ringless" engines by the way)
     
    To do this you need to run the engine very rich so it effectively misfires every other stroke & this means that when it does fire it won't produce much power....it will also be highly unstable in flight & prone to stopping...
     
    So...a bad idea in my opinion....any money you save by not buying a 4 stroke will quickly be spent on repairs & new models to replace the ones you crash due to your 4 stroking 2 stroke stopping in flight.....
     
    Take a look at the SC & ASP range of 4 strokes...excellent budget engines.....& not that much more expensive than a 2 stroke...
    Agreed. But still am seeking ppl that carry out this kind of operation, as its an agreed secondrly operation of a 2 stroke engine etc..
     
    BB
  13. Posted by David Ashby - RCME Admin on 14/11/2011 08:34:10:
    ...as long as it went out in style BB
     
     
     
    It went out like a 'Klingon', "It was a good day to die"... full chat, no compromies. ETS was 74 MPH. 3' higher and 3' to the left and it would have made it. But, got my feel with if. One day I will build one myself I am sure.
     
    The pic of the crash is actually on the backside of the tree ! The engine was 10 mtrs after the tree. The carb insulator broke and the carb landed 5 yards after the engine.
     
    Ta for the comments.
     
    BB
  14. Being that 2 strokes are that much cheaper than a nice sounding 4 strokes. Often with a new 2 stroke engine manual is the news that in running in, one should 4 stroke the engine for a while.
     
    While I know this method riches and beds in some engines by lowering top end rpm and increasing low end torque.
     
    Has anyone purposely induced 4 stroking via a 2 stroke? Putting up with the 50/100 power loss and having a sound flight. In a scale plane.
     
    Asking because of the pro-hibative, for some, of a decent four stroke against a decent 2 stroke.
     
    Q: Is the way to go (against fuel consumption, prices etc..) I.E. are back to basics the way to before going to Petrol/Electric.
     
    I apprecciate All input. I am aware of the multi-question ... And answer to this seemingly simple question.
     
    Thanks BB.
     
    (mods - may need moving to 'Engines / I.C. etc)

    Edited By BB on 01/12/2011 15:03:00

  15. I've seen loads of engines screwed in with 'self-tapers'. With no i'll effects. But, I wouldn't use this method myself.
     
    I tend to drill & tap and use washers either side of the mount. As, drilling just a hole and mounting an engine can cause the mount to 'crush'.
     
    BB
  16. I download music from Youtube for my videos. Youtube will notify you of any copyright issues. They will either remove the soundtrack or add a 'buy from' tag, which appears just below the video viewing pane. They will also add an advert to your video.
     
    The way round copyright issues on Youtube videos in particular is to use a programe such as Fraps. Fraps records sound/video as a 'proxy' programe. One can then extract the MP3 soundtrack and post to your video. Youtube in this instance is not able to access key information about the soundtrack and will not issue a copyright warning.
     
    Fraps is not free. But carries a lifetime license with updates.
     
    I also use www.dvdvideosoft.com This is a free software (with updates). As, occassionally Youtube re-writes it's source code to circumvent downloading of available videos.
     
    BB

    Edited By BB on 25/11/2011 17:43:44

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