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Yorkman

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  1. Yorkman
    Hi Andy I've a DX6i, so may be a bit different-I was mucking about this morning with the second motor plugged in to rudder channel, and was getting near something workable, before the battery went flat! I tried plugging in to flap channel, but the motor just ran constantly. When you say 'throttle to flap at 100%', what does that mean exactly? With the mixes on the DX6i both channels can be adjusted from -125 to +125......
  2. Yorkman
    Posted by Andy Harris on 29/01/2010 07:43:59: One will always start before the other, its the nature of tolerances in components.   However there is a difference between the negilable thrust difference at start-up compared to the running thrust needed for flight.   Once the motors are running at speed, if you can hear a beat or drone you'll know the motors are within 10's of rpm between each other.   The stopping behavior could be additional friction in the motor - you'd notice that! or ESC settings - most likely.   You didn't say if you have the props rotating in opposite directions - you'll need that on a smaller model.   I use a pair of the exact same ESCs in a Googlie - they are perfect!  Note that I use differential thrust mixed form the rudder and therefore I could trim any speed differences out at the TX.  I don't need to, they are matched by default.   Andy  How do you do that then Andy? There is no rudder on the mossie, so if I can use the rudder channel and  balance the motors on tx settings, then that's my answer. Any advice welcome!
  3. Yorkman
    Ok, latest situation is- went back and checked esc settings, and reset throttle travel. Motors then started at the same time, tho the port still stops immediately while the stbd runs on slightly. The port motor is stiffer to turn, and if you flick them over with the prop, the stbd spins noticeably  more easily. I have mounted the model on a swivelling mount this evening, and, no surprise, I am getting more thrust from the stbd motor (I'll try and put the video up later). My next move is to swap the motors, as it seems they have differences, but that will prove once and for all if it is mismatched motors or differences in the escs. Onwards....
  4. Yorkman
    If, as seems inevitable, the only solution is to try another pair of controllers, would the panel recommend Turnigy or Etronix?
  5. Yorkman
    In a triump of optimism over reality, I'm now halfway through another GAD Mosquito. The last one was written off after yet another wingover/splat caused by assymetric thrust, so when I bought this one I also bought a(nother) pair of engines recommended and supplied by GAD. I had already replaced one of the hobbywings 12amp ESCs http://www.giantcod.co.uk/hobbywing-pentium-12amp-speed-controller-p-327.html as there seemed to be a problem with it. So, theoretically, two identical motors and ESCs. Well I connected up the motors today, and already there are two issues- 1-when the throttle is shut the port motor stops immediately while the stbd 'runs down' for a couple of seconds, and 2-if I open the throttle 'click by click' on the trim, the port motor starts spinning a couple of clicks before the stbd. I am fairly certain the two ESCs are in their 'default' settings, but will check again with the program card, and I have disconnected the red wire from one of them. Any thoughts, anyone? Didn't think it was supposed to be this hard....Edited By Yorkman on 28/01/2010 23:30:26
  6. Yorkman
    Not absolutely sure where Beale park is-we were near it on sunday on one of Theale lakes-where the nipper had a blast with his boat and the Coota flew from water-briefly!-for the first time, before stalling and just recovering in time to make a perfect touchdown..far too exciting!
  7. Yorkman
    Anyone done/doing any float/seaplane flying in this area? The Coota went well off snow, but that's gone now....
  8. Yorkman
    How are you getting on Robin? I just got my xmas 'Coota' flying boat and am about to ask the same question re Hampshire!
  9. Yorkman
    a bit of 4x2 the length of the fus, with maybe a bit of foam to stop the fus 'rolling', and a couple of 4in nails knocked in at the leading edges. clamp up in your workmate...wrap some masking tape around it if you're afraid it might leap about! As long as the props are clear, Bob's yer uncle.
  10. Yorkman
    haven't experience of the camel, but my nipper has one of the other rudder/throttle silverlit planes, and it is amazingly over-powered, throttle seems to be '4 stage' rather than fully proportional, and it launches and flies on the first stage above idle-you've got to be nifty with the rudder to turn at the top of the zoom, but flights of....oooh...20 seconds or so are possible...
  11. Yorkman
    The thing that got me was that with the original super cheapo Escs the thing was fine (apart from motors occasionally not wanting to start, overcome by trimming throttle 'open' slightly before launch) and went straight from my hand without any dramas. So when they died, upgrading to the Hobbywings ESCs-I thought-would solve all my problems. But for whatever reason, they didn't want to work properly with the original motors (one of which had '11v' written on it, the other '7v-9v'! but which had been fine). And the static thrust (at WOT at least) certainly seemed very close when I put two new motors in-new Escs, new motors, got to be right, surely? Not... Anyway....24hours on, am thinking 'third time lucky'...(that was my second Mossie!)..and the Mrs is encouraging me to buy the 'Flying Styro' kit...but...160 quid...seeing that go 'splat' would really hurt...so, could be a third GAD kit...at least I'm practised at building them now...if anyone has experience of the FSK models I'd be interested to hear it. And the boat has water in the fuel tank, in case anyone's interested-so next job is take the top off the carb and clean the float bowl, then perhaps I can play with one of my toys!!
  12. Yorkman
    To be honest Timbo-the problem now seems to have been the motors-I think Scott hit the nail on the head with his comment about budget motors not necessarily being the same, despite identical labelling. I've extricated the motors from the remains, and on close examination, it appears I may have been supplied with 2 different specs-here's a quote from GC motor test forum-   These motors are identical in appearance except the 1600Kv one had a black circlip on the back of the shaft and the other had a silver one. Whether that's a reliable way to identify which is which, I don't know. They both have a sticker saying Emax CF2805, but no indication of the Kv. The 2800Kv is noticeably stiffer to turn by hand, but that doesn't help much unless you have one of each to compare.   And guess what? One silver circlip, one black.. Anyway, the Mossie is history now, which is a shame, cos it was very pretty, and a hoot when it was working. That's modelling, I guess.
  13. Yorkman
    Ok, I officially give up. Despite both motors and ESCs (supposedly) being identical, and delivering the same static thrust, on launch got another instant wingover and collection of bits. So much for spending more money on 'better' Hobbywings ESCs. Will go back to flying the York 4 times a year. And to fixing my boat.
  14. Yorkman
    Posted by Scott Cuppello on 31/12/2009 13:31:39: Do you own or can you borrow a tacho? That will give you piece of mind, as will lot's of rudder throw......just in case.  No....and no....I'm very much on my own! And it's not got a rudder ...going to head out after this coffee and see what happens...thinking about heading up to inkpen and throwing it off a hill with motors at idle-to give me some altitude to play with!
  15. Yorkman
    'motor timing being different on each would be top of my list....as would motors with different windings [labelled the same....far more common on budget motors as people realise, you need to be careful with multi's on this one].'   Hmmm that's interesting.... I have in fact got the two motors to behave-went back the next day and started over, and (who knows why!) the WOT setting up etc all worked fine, and I ended up with two motors working exactly as expected, and joined the battery wires together and all seems fine. Going back to your point though, Scott-I have also fitted two new motors, outwardly identical, same numbers and voltage ratings written on them, but bizarrely, one of them is a different diameter where it fits into the mount- http://www.giantcod.co.uk/fc2805-1600kv-brushless-outrunner-motor-p-403764.html -and now I'm worried that it is a different spec and I'm going to get the same wingover/splat that I've had on my last two flight attempts...aaaaaaaargh.....
  16. Yorkman
    I'm starting to feel like giving up.... got a replacement ESC on christmas eve (well done Rob), so just took a few minutes to start installing. Decided to connect temporarily with chocolate blocks to ensure correct functioning and rotation, and to keep completely separate from the port motor set up. So, motor connected, battery connections made, port motor rx connection unplugged, throttle open fully (as per instructions to set full throttle position), connect battery...and ESC makes 'normal' connection noises, and after a couple of seconds, motor fires up . Try a couple more times, the ESC won't 'learn' the WOT Tx setting. Disconnect the new ESC/motor completely,  connect the other, correctly functioning, motor...and...guess what? Not 'correctly functioning' at all, in fact, exactly the same behaviour as the first side. Check Tx trim-neutral. So why, now, can I not set WOT on either ESC? And...the original (port) motor is obviously spinning at a significantly faster speed than the new stbd set up (probably because I can't set the WOT position?). Please help-I don't have enough hair to tear any out....
  17. Yorkman
    Posted by Andy Gates on 06/12/2009 16:08:57: Pardon the dumb question coming....?   Have you isolated one of the BEC's on one of the speed controllers?   This could be part of your problem.    Funnily enough-if you scroll down the list of recent topics, there is a thread about multiple ESCs where someone who obviously knows a helluva lot more about electrics than I do explains how isolating the BECs is not necessary! After returning with the bits I separated the two ESCs completely (they were wired to the battery together, obviously) and the one ESC wouldn't 'program' at all,though it still worked as you'd expect, i.e start, throttle up, throttle down, stop.. Anyway, it's in an envelope ready to go back to GC tomorrow, hopefully the replacement will not give me any more grief....hmm, no 'fingers crossed' smilie....
  18. Yorkman

    my dad's last creation

    Yorkman posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    my dad's last creation
  19. Yorkman

    on finals

    Yorkman posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    on finals
  20. Yorkman

    Yorkman posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  21. Yorkman

    Yorkman posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  22. Yorkman

    Yorkman posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  23. Yorkman
    Some of you may remember an earlier thread of mine re the Mossie and speed controllers and how I splammed it when one of the super-cheapo ESCs didn't start its motor as I opened the throttle after a low pass....and how I over came this problem by trimming 'forward' on the throttle channel before launch so both motors only slowed to 'tickover' rather than stopping. Well, like this I had half a dozen or so completely successful and fun flights, tho the ESCs continued to be temperamental about starting...until one day they both refused to start at all. So, back to GC and two Hobbywings 12ampers to solve the problem once and for all.....I thought. After initial installation, everything seemed fine-could set full throttle and closed throttle as per the instructions, nice linear increase...but then started getting strange signals on switch-on, one ESC thinking throttle wasn't fully shut, wouldn't set full throttle like it had previously....though otherwise seemed to work fine-so, caution to the wind, let's try a test flight, thumb on throttle, about 1/3 power, launch, immediately obvious two motors aren't delivering the same thrust, despite chopping throttle imediately, Mossie arrives home in three bits....again....so, break out the superglue...again...into the wing we go....again to remove the offending article....why can't I just buy something, fit it and it works??? As for my car-that's a whole new story...
  24. Yorkman
    Posted by Frank Skilbeck on 13/11/2009 14:37:45:   So rather than replace your 400s with 400s when they burn out, try a 480.    Except I'd have to change all four....or at least a pair! Will shortly have 2x2s lipo packs for the Mossie, so will trial fit in the York and do some thrust/taxi tests and see how she goes.
  25. Yorkman
    The York originally flew with 2 1900 7 cell nicad packs-and 'performance' was marginal at best-though the MTOW take-off runs were very scale!-so last year I upgraded to Lipo and UBEC as discussed elsewhere on this forum...but, musing the other day, quick calculation in head 7x1.2=8.4volts from the nicad packs...same as a 2s lipo...why did I go for a 3s? Performance is now 'sparkling' in contrast to before, but the speed 400s (7.5 volt?) must be suffering the extra voltage-indeed, I've replace one that went duff already-so why don't I use a 2s instead? And save a bit more weight? Or get a bigger one, or two in parallel and get some decent flight times? And before you all start, going brushless is on my 'to do' list, but the major surgery involved-de-skinning the mainplane-means I'm in no rush-she flies just fine now and is hardly over-worked-3 or maybe 4 flights this year!
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