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Multiplex Cularis


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I've just bought a Multiplex Cularis glider.  It's a very interesting model that is appealing to everyone from relative beginners right through to advanced glider pilots.  The reason is that it has sophisticated glider features (2.6 metre wingspan, flaps, ailerons, elevators, rudder, serious high-performance design, plus the option of electric power if desired) but it is made from Elapor, the advanced foam material.  That means it withstands knocks better and is therefore more suitable for intermediate flyers than fragile balsa or hard-skin gliders.  The Cularis is, in short, the most advanced foam glider ever produced - a milestone model. 

I haven't built the Cularis yet, but I'm so impressed by the sheer quality and engineering excellence of the design I just had to start a review thread.  What do other Cularis owners think of the model? 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
David, I too have recently purchased a Cularis + Power Set and will commence building soon however I believe that I read somewhere that a review was in the process of being written for publication. Do you have any idea if this is true and when it may be published???? as I would like to hold on to get he full benefit of the review.
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Finally finished my Cularis and flew it last Friday from a flat field no wind, grey skies, no lift but still managed 20 + minute flights, make sure you set up crow braking or it will just keep flying in ground effect. I've modified the wing retaining catch (file part of the lower step off) as one wing shifted in flight and I lost aileron control to that wing, just as well I had the aileron to flap mix working as the landing required full left aileron to keep it level. I'am going to give the wings a good tug before each flight.
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Peter,

     I used an MVVS 3.5, 960kv motor with a 12x8 folding Aeronaut prop, I had it to hand, I had to add lead to the tail to get it to balance slightly nose down, this seems to be the case with other reviews I've read on it. I think for slope flying it will need more weight as it flies slow in it's current set-up. I can squeeze a 3700 3s pack in so I will try that the next time. I'am going to add some colour to it as the day I flew it, was a bit grey and the gilder was hard to see. I also set up a 75% dual rate an all the controls and used this on the ailerons as the high rate is too much for slow thermal turns. 

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Interesting to see someone else has used an MVVS motor, I plan to use my MVVS 3.5 1200 I have to hand, or perhaps - if I want to go really power mad! - my MVVS 5.6 960.  The 3.5 weighs the same as the suggested Cularis Himax motor (but the MVVS has a fraction more power I believe).   The 5.6 weighs 100 grams more which could cause balancing problems.  It would be fun to do vertical launches though!

How did you get on with the MVVS 3.5 YakMad, I reckon it should have been reasonably powerful?

I'm going to use a speed controller with a BEC, but I'm making sure it's a 3A switching BEC that can handle six servos.  German guys use that setup successfully in a Cularis. 

I'm not going to paint my Cularis because painting my Multiplex Gemini (also Elapor) has proved to be more trouble than it's worth.  I'll stick high visibility self-adhesive film on the underside of the wings, because I also find high-flying white models rather difficult to see especially on overcast days.   

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I used an Opto controller so had to use an RX Battery, the switching BEC should handle the current draw, I did remove the RX battery while balancing it and it made little difference, I think they could have made the nose on the Cularis shorter as there is about 3 inchs of space between the RX and the Lipo, this would have helped the balance as this space has put the motor and esc a good distance from the wing.

The MVVS 3.5 does have plenty of power and will pull the Cularis to height very quickly (not hotliner quick). I have to say that I am very impressed with the MVVS and would invest in more.

I used a Multiplex 7 ch. synth rx as I wanted to be able to swap freq. at the slope, I would normally use a PCM rx but so far the Multiplex rx has worked out ok. I agree I will use self-adhesive film and not paint as it's easier and stays on unlike the paint.

I would be wary of using too much power in the Cularis as I still have some doubts about the wing attachment system and too much wing flex may cause the catch to release. 

Slighty off topic, I also have the Gemini and went with the recommended Power set but it could do with a little more power although it flies very well, I use it as my camera plane with several mounts for a FLYCAMONE.

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Hi Peter

 Sorry for the delay in replying - been away a few days. Yes a review is just about to start and it's me who's doing it! I'm literally at the open the box stage - should be in the mag in a couple of months but I'm happy to chat Cularis in the meantime. 

I'm using the recommended Multiplex Himax motor and am giving serious consideration to having a separate RX battery.  

Gary....it's a good side track at least!  

There was a little amendment sheet in my box that seems to suggest cyanoing the servo leads into the wing joiner to overcome the connection problems that seem to be apparent...? 

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Gary,

After much thinking about it I did glue the servo connectors in place and to my surprise it worked, if you are using Futaba type connectors the centre section will need a little work to ensure a smooth connection. Make sure you wrap them in tape first or else the CA will get on to the Gold pins. 

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David, many thanks. I have purchased the Cularis power set supplied by Multiplex and as a result will have to have a seperate RX battery. I am thinking to go Lipo (having read Timbo's article) but have yet to decide what size??? so I would be really interested in your choice should you also go down this route. Looking forward to the review.

I have just bought some fluro orange spray paint and some Special Multiplex primer made specially for their Elapor models so I will let you know how it goes.

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Peter

Ordered my 60 amp opto ESc from Overlander yesterday with a 1000mah nimh (they told me it was a little square pack) I went for 60 amp as I wondered if a 40 would be cutting it too fine - probably not but I thought the 60 would suit other models in the future too.

As it's a review I have to finish the model close to standard so I'll apply the decals - I may add some colour trim on the underside just for visibility when she's up.

I did spray my Twinstar 2 couple of years ago using ( I think) Plasticoat from B&Q and it stayed on pretty well.  

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hi I am thinking of getting a Cularis - I already have 2 x HS 81's and 2x Hs 81 mg's spare. The two HS 81's can go in the fuselage ok as same size as tiny s however would there be room to put the two HS81 mg's in the wing for the flaps ??- I'll the have to buy two nano s for the ailerons Any advice would be appreciated thanks Mike
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Could anyone remind me - if you have some metal gear servos and some plastic, would you use the metal ones for the wings or the tail? 

 (By the way, there's an interesting test on the web somewhere, by an Australian guy I think, who tested all the main brands of servos by cycling them continuously.  The metal ones wore out FAR sooner than the plastic ones.  So metal servos may have better crash resistance, but they're certainly not better in every respect.)

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