Graham Dorschell Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Posted by Graham Dorschell on 26/01/2011 13:44:53: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3XlP2X1slw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Dorschell Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Posted by andy watson on 28/02/2011 15:19:16: Tony, can I suggest you save yourself £30 and don't get the vac formed bits yet. I bought them, but I now doubt I will use many, if any of them. Graham- am I on commision? Edited By andy watson on 28/02/2011 15:19:56 Lol he he ,, nice one ,,, Andy - no problem - will hand launch your Vulcan any day .. Hmmmm , To Tony - yes please email me - am aloud to put my mail on this site ?? Sorry new to all this ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 He will be better to PM it to you Graham! No photos, but shear webbing done, trailing edge and false leading edge done, also the top sheeting is complete. It's funny. the wing looks really really small, but then when I sat it next to the fus you can see this is quite a chunky plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 Well the build has hit a bit of a hold up due to a lack of time. I have done some bits though- the blog has also been held up even more than the build! The top sheeting on the wings has been done, and I have made up the ailerons and flaps. Unfortunately I only realised I hadn't photographed them when I updated the blog! I have made up the second wing to the same point. I saw the instructions recommended a servo that is smaller than standard, which I don't have "in stock". I need to mess around and see if I can mount standards further up into the wing, or buy some new servos. Of more interest are the thrust tubes. I had been worried about these, as my experience of making long straight cuts that needed butt joining together seems to often give long narrow gaps if not done really really carefully. The method graham used was to cut down cardboard postage tubes. I really wasn't sure for the reason I said above, but decided to give it a go. I needent have worried- it worked really well. I cut out a long triangle that gave 1" overlap onto the fan shroud, which then tapered down to the exhaust outlet. Nice to dig out the old maths lessons for calculating areas and circumferences of circles! With the tubes cut I then ran thin cyano along the join. This did seem to make a fairly strong joint- but I worried it might be a little brittle if the tube flexes under pressure. So I ran a line of aliphatic glue along the length of the join. This will add strength and also seal any tiny holes (not that I could see any). As a final strengthener I then used duct tape along the length of the join and then wrapped round the tube. Repeat for the other 3!Edited By andy watson on 15/04/2011 22:51:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 Forgot to add this last time. One job I left undone was adding the last of the wing ribs that are attached to the fuselage. The reason for this was the retracts fit into here- this is the scale position, rather than the positioning on the original pusher plans. The new plan includes these changes- they are not mine. Anyway, I decided it was better to have the retracts before adding the rib. I didn't really want to mess around with retracts, as they seem to be a perrenial problem in peoples builds or down at the flying field. So I decided to go down the route of servoless ones- no air tanks or complicated linkages. There are a number available now, but only 1 set suitable for a plane of this size. RC Lander make them, but there didn't seem to be any UK stockists of the larger ones. I ended up getting some sent through the post from the states. Anyway, I pulled a spare receiver out of a currently damaged autogyro, plugged them in using the supplied 3 way Y lead (tricycle gear), and within 15 seconds (it really was that fast) I had them working on the bench. I can't see any problems in installing them. Setting up the retracts was easier than embedding the U-tube video of them working! Edited By andy watson on 17/04/2011 20:38:51Edited By andy watson on 17/04/2011 20:57:10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 hmmm. help? Try this link for now.Edited By andy watson on 17/04/2011 20:53:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Well the updates to this blog are being very sporadic- very sorry everyone. Actually in the last couple of weeks I seem to have found a bit of time to do some work on it, so progress has been made. In truth I manage about an hour or so an evening, and doing the blog would be at the expense of actually doing the blog, so it's tricky. Planking the top of the wing roots has been straightforwards, and needs doing before the underside. There are a couple of issues with the intake ducts I will talk about later, but the main wing section was easy. The biggest job, although it sounds like one of the smallest, was fitting the next rib to either side of the wing root that is attached to the fus. With retracts in hand, I could see there was no real issue as far as they were concerned, so I could simply fit them. The difficulty came in that the plans show no support at all for this wing section- the rib is simply held by the top and bottom skin. I really didn't like that idea. I especially didn't like it when this is the section containing the wing joining tubes. The solution was a simple one, I beefed up the vertical parts of the box that holds the wing joining tubes, and also made them taller to act as a full vertical spar in the wing. It is probably overkill, but I did it with each of them to effectively have 4 spars in this part of the wing. A bit of work with the razor plane will see those sheeted over. The retracts fit in front of the forward wing tube, so no doubt some fettling will be required. The leading edge needed putting in to join the front of the ribs, and this was simple. Again the plane will be required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 This now leaves me with one of the real big worries I have about this plan- the area between the side of the fuselage (effectively a rib) and the first rib out. The engines go here- so the whole run needs to be left clear for the ducting to run through. The top is sheeted, no problem, but the underside will probably be made from a shaped cover that I will screw over the ducting as it needs to incorporate flat areas of wing underside and rounded areas of jet engine. Unless I am seriously misreading the plan (again, not impossible), the only support wing rib #1 will get is from the sheeting on the top of the wing, and the horizontal sheets at the air intakes at the front. There will be some, but less support from the underside sheeting due to its shape. This seems way understrength to me, although I suppose Graham has flown his and the wings haven't folded. (Well he hasn't admitted it anyway!). This area will have to cope with the levered stress of any wing flexing and movement- which could be significant. I suppose the delta shape means there is more wood there than a standard wing though. Perhaps if the underside clamps tightly onto the thrust tubes they will stiffen everything up significantly. I would still like some kind of support for the middle/rear of the wing, and I am thinking of making a spar with holes cut in for the thrust tube, but I need to keep the size down. Ideas on this would be welcome. I have had one idea though, and that is the addition of ply bracing spars top and bottom of the intake sheets (which have themselves been upgraded to thin ply rather than balsa). I am actually very happy with the result at the front of the wing- it is very rigid, but much less so further back (not surprising as it is only held in place by 1/16" balsa sheeting. There is a matching brace underneath, and it will be boxed in by the wing sheeting. This should add a lot of strength to the front. This photo was taken before I added the bottom brace: And with the motors and tubes in place it looks like this: Anyway, there has been some sheeting done up to the leading edge now, so it looks a bit less blocky, but not photo'd that yet. It also looks like I need to give the camera lens a bit of a clean- sorry for the smudges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BizJet Tech Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 I have the same fears, so what I have done on my 45” reduced version of GDs plan is to use the intake bulkhead as a motor mount and have added 2 sheets of 1mm ply top and bottom about 25 mm aft of the edfs and finishing where the jetpipes come through the skin. That has about 1/3 of the gap filled. I made up some fibreglass fairings for the upper and lower skins and they will help a little. I also put 4 carbon rods around the intake. I was thinking of embedding the jetpipes in shredded glassfibre towards the rear of the wing, a kind of bulkhead I suppose. By the way, the jetpipes are 160grm postcard paper wrapped around 41mm water pipe and sealed with a foam friendly resin called Eze-Kote. I put the retracts in the scale position in the removeable wing panels, which in my case will be permanent – it’s only 45” after all and I have a van. I sliced into the ribs horizontally and had to cut one out of each side out to allow for twin wheels. I also sliced into the outer fuselage ply ribs and the wing panel ply rib. I’ll use them even though the wings will be glued in place as they might spread the load. That should secure the wings ok. On problem based on the size of the aircraft is the lack of space for all the wires!! I’ll have to feed them around the motors and possibly embed them in the skin. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 OK, time for an update on the worst build blog ever! Before I start if people could look at bizjets posting above. He has a couple of fibreglass/ epoxy covers that go over the thrust tubes. Anyone got any idea how to make something like them? Anyway, back to my build. The blog was last updated in May. I haven't had huge amounts of time to build. This means that when I do have time I prefer to get some building done rather than getting photos or blogging. Sorry. I will make a bit more effort in future- I promise. At least this should be a sizeable update. Looking back on the last build photos I was pretty happy with the engines mounted directly into the thrust tubes. I realised though, that I was storing up problems for myself. The motors are bolted into the fans, and the fans are then taped into the tubes. The tubes were then going to be glued into the fuselage. This would stop me having access to the tape on side of the tube glued to the fuselage. Any need to access the fan/motor would need fairly major surgery. I needed a new plan, and as I have often done on this build, I looked back at what Graham did, and copied his original method! In other words did what I should have done in the first place!! The tubes were cut shorter and glued into place. I added some triagular stock along the glue line and glued that in place to add some reinforcement and extra glued area. Then I made up some thin card tubes that went from the motor inside the thick card tubes. This allows the motors to be put in or taken out without removing the full length tubes. I added some trailing edge stock to act as a block in front of the fans to act as a stop. The TE profile should smooth the air flow into the fans more than strip would. The end result looks workmanlike, but is smooth inside, which is the most important thing. More to follow- the other half wants the laptop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 OK, back again. You wait 3 months for an update, and then 2 come at once! Actually it might be 3 to make sure they fit in the forum length. Out of build sequence, but in more logical update sequence, the motors need a cover. I have spent a long time pondering this, as the tubes are thicker than the ribs and so stand proud. I really didn't have a definitive method planned, and had considered all kinds of plastics and other materials. It also had to be removeable in order to access the motors. In the end I stuck to a basic method in the hope it would work. Firstly, with a little trimming I glued 2 10mm*10mm pine strips along the ribs next to the motors. They can be seen in the photo above. Then I butt joined 2 sheets of 3/32 balsa (the thickness of the covering) to give a 6" wide sheet. This was cut to length and given a really good spray of water and left to soak to become more flexible. I often use 10% ammonia for this, but I had run out so thought I would try water. In the end it was simple- The water worked fine, and I carefully screwed the flexible plate onto the rails; just being careful to go in an order to bend it as I wanted without creasing the sheet. I went with Allen key servo screws, because I like them! I left them in place for 2 days to dry thoroughly and warp into shape. The end result was spot on, except for a tiny split in 1 where I put the screw a little close to the edge, which was easily repaired with cyano. I still need to think what to do at the back- whether to fill the gap where the cover bridges the thrust tubes or not, but all in all very successful! Retracts. It seems like forever ago I bought the all electric retract units from RC Lander. I needed oleos too, and bought some from www.Himodel.com These guys sit on my internet favourites, but I rarely use them for some reason- they are very good. Anyway I bought 3 sets of oleos from hobbyking as they were cheap, and I wasn't sure which would fit best! Once they arrived the retracts took about 2 minutes to set up and test- I doubt I will ever buy an air system or retract servo! Anyway, they needed mounting, so a simple 1/4" birch ply plate with a slot cut in would work well- they mount like servoes but with flanges on the sides not ends. A simple bit of measuring and cutting with my new (well 2nd hand) band saw and the job was done quickly. More time was taken in accurately gluing in support rails, and the ply plate was glued in place with a 2nd set of strengthening rails above. Simples........... Wing bolts. One of the problems with working with plans, is sometimes you hit a small area where for some reason you cannot quite get your head around what the designer means. Now I emphasise this isn't anyones fault, but just an example of crossed communication. For some reason I could not understand how Graham meant for the wing bolts to be attached. The end result was completely straightforwards, and in no way explains to anyone including myself, why I found it so frustrating! The problem was access to the bolt to do it up/undo it. The answer was staring me in the face- The gap in the sheeting where the retracts raised lowered. So the undercarriage is lowered, and the resulting space allows access to the wing bolt. Very simple and elegant. Except I then realised I had glued the ply retract plate in the wrong way round- the retract was closest to the inboard rib, not the outboard. This had happened because I was getting so little time on the build you forget what you were thinking the time before, or lose the thread of what you were doing and have to restep yout thought process. You also start to see how the designers thought process works, and you lose this empathy too. Anyway, the retract plate was ripped out, swapped over, and then the wingbolts put in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... andy watson Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 The Vulcan has a large bulge sticking out of the back which contained a lot of ECM equipment and a parachute. I really had to fight temptation hard not to put in a scale parachute system!! I still might put one in- I do like things like that!! Anyway, this was made either from foam, or 2 pieces of the vac form kit I bought. I don't know why I bought it, because I hate vac formed parts- I never seem to be able to fit them cleanly. Anyway, since I had them I thought I would give them a try, and scrap them when it invevitably didn't work very well! Funnily enough with a little care on the cutting they went on very well- probably helped by the fact they felt very thick and robust, not the flimsy thin ones sometimes seen. The joins where the 2 halves meet need a bit of sanding and filling, but I am actually pretty happy with them. I will save my foam for another day! In fact the only real problem I had was that the first half just didn't fit over the cruciform on the laser cut parts. No problem, with some reasonably heavy trimming I got it pinned in place, before realising I had the fuselage upside down on the stand, and I was fitting the wrong piece in place!! I had to glue the trimmings back onto the cruciform, and then it fitted perfectly- as it would have done initially! The wing sheeting needs extending out to the vac formed parts- a simple enough job.The final build job I have done was simply fitting servo plates in the wings. 100% straightforwards- rails and 1/8" ply plate on top, with a hole cut in to fit the servo in. Unfortunately I didn't have any servo leads long enough for a single extension wire to run out of the wing, and I don't like using 2 or more, so I can't mount the servoes and skin the bottom of the wing, which is a little frustrating. I have ordered some, so I should be able to in a couple of days. Note the angles are deliberate, to be square with the angled TE, not that I was drunk! Servoes are Ripmax SD200s. First time I have used mini servoes, and they look scarily small. I would feel happier with full size ones, but Graham used these, so I am sure they are up to the job, and lets face it this won't be a 3D machine! One "job" I did when I fixed the motors in place was "test" them all. The wires for the retracts and motors all run into the fus- another spaghetti junction build! Anyway, everything went well on firing up 3 motors- it certainly feels like there will be plenty of push! The 4th wasn't such a happy experience though. I was doing them 1 at a time (I still haven't run them all at once!) The speed controller got hot and melted the plastic wrapping in places- and this was just with the 6V receiver battery connected! I am going from memory, but I am sure I didn't connect the 4S LiPo when it went. Interestingly, I later on decided to try the dodgy esc again and it worked faultlessly. I have ordered a replacement though- better safe than sorry. One bit of fettling involved making the wings an easy fit onto their aluminium rods. A bit of sanding, and it was done (that made a long frustrating job sound easy!). With the wings on this plane looks big!! That's my LA racer on the chair behind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Steve Houghton 1 Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Thats looking amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... andy watson Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 It's still very rough in a lot of places, and there's a lot to do, but it is starting to look very imposing. The motors make a fair racket too! All 4 should sound pretty good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... TonyS Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Andy, I'm still watching with awe! Quick question. Never having purchased oleos... I've fitted some E-Flight electric retracts to a model Mosquito and it would be great to fit oleos. Do these slide over the retract rod? It would make sense if they did, or do you have to cut the strut and attach the new oleo? Thanks Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Stefan Hafner Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 looks like its gonna be a good one Andy As for the F-Glass thrust tube covers there are various ways to make them, for best results you'd want to make a positive that you can make a mold from and them make a part from that, but this is a lot of work for a one off model, and it turns out relatively expensive per part then. Another option would be to make a solid foam version, and then put a few layers of glass coth on it, sand it smooth and then remove the solid foam, if it needs to be a bit stronger you can always add a few more layers of cloth on the inside then. If you're interested making moulds etc. I found a lot of usefull stuff on EasyComposites, they have a load of how to videos on youtube too. Hope some of that is usefull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... andy watson Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Oleos have a hole in them that slides over the rod that comes out of the retract unit. It can be awkward getting oleos to match the retract unit/plane- I know Timbo had a thread where he was looking to shorten a pair of oleos to his requirements. One option is to get some custom built- unitracts do good ones, and I think they are up trading again. I went a slightly different route and just bought several sets from HK and picked the one that worked best. My U/C isn't scale- the scale wheels were about 1"- they would never have flown from our field. I do have some ideas for a cheat, but space looks a little tight inside the wing, with the position of the wing bolt- but I haven't abandoned the idea. Thanks Stefan- I will have a closer look at that later- I do like new techniques.Edited By andy watson on 14/08/2011 10:08:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... BizJet Tech Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 What I did to get the engine fairings was simple. I cut two slots in a 15mm plank (a B&Q shelf actually) I then inset 2 40mm plastic drain pipes using lots of epoxy. The front sections were just polyfilla. I measured the gap between the ribs and drew lines on the wood using a ballpoint pen. I really scored it deep. When dry, I shaped the filler and then applied copious quantities of wax polish and using the pen marks as a guide I fibreglassed the area with the lightest fabric I could find. When set I popped it off. A side result of the heavy penlines was the ink got picked up by the resin and so I had great cutting marks. Fluke! Remember mine is a reduced version of Graham’s. Only 45” span with 40mm fans, so the pipes will need to be bigger. It’s a bit gash but the principle works. The pic shows the first effort and shows the mistake. The pipe needs to be angled into the wood to allow for the wing shape. If you look at a Vulcan underside you’ll see what I mean. So I did them again. The outer surface is really quite smooth but as xxx said a male mould would be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... andy watson Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Cheers Biz, I'm not sure if I will use that method on this build now, I think I would need to have done a few different things. Glad to have seen something new though- I would definately have done it like that earlier in the build though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Graham Dorschell Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Posted by andy watson on 14/08/2011 00:16:13: It's still very rough in a lot of places, and there's a lot to do, but it is starting to look very imposing. The motors make a fair racket too! All 4 should sound pretty good! really looking great , well done - some pics of me at Doncster with the full size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Graham Dorschell Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Graham Dorschell Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Graham Dorschell Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... andy watson Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Hi Graham- I hear you have been complaining to my mates at Rolls Royce I don't answer my emails! Everyone said you were a top bloke- and I thought I had always answered them. Maybe you just meant I hadn't told you much recently- because not much had got done. I took it part built to out club scale weekend, and it went down really well- even in its scruffy state. Really got the bug to get on with it now- especially as it was the only thing that performed properly for me over the weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Graham Dorschell Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Posted by andy watson on 22/08/2011 00:07:45: Hi Graham- I hear you have been complaining to my mates at Rolls Royce I don't answer my emails! Everyone said you were a top bloke- and I thought I had always answered them. Maybe you just meant I hadn't told you much recently- because not much had got done. I took it part built to out club scale weekend, and it went down really well- even in its scruffy state. Really got the bug to get on with it now- especially as it was the only thing that performed properly for me over the weekend! Oh - Ya , my fauly entirly , I have not been loged into this forum and usually it alerts me to when your on . The email is sent to me then usually I would email back . Ya you have lots of fans at your club - well done and keep up the good work . We all tryed to formate with the rest of the V force but a little bit of a disaster . Still a brilliant day but sadly I may not be able to go again . Cars going to get floged . I think your model is really coming along and would be great to see it . Going to Barkston this week end - will try and fly on the electric slot Sat evening . 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andy watson Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 The Vulcan has a large bulge sticking out of the back which contained a lot of ECM equipment and a parachute. I really had to fight temptation hard not to put in a scale parachute system!! I still might put one in- I do like things like that!! Anyway, this was made either from foam, or 2 pieces of the vac form kit I bought. I don't know why I bought it, because I hate vac formed parts- I never seem to be able to fit them cleanly. Anyway, since I had them I thought I would give them a try, and scrap them when it invevitably didn't work very well! Funnily enough with a little care on the cutting they went on very well- probably helped by the fact they felt very thick and robust, not the flimsy thin ones sometimes seen. The joins where the 2 halves meet need a bit of sanding and filling, but I am actually pretty happy with them. I will save my foam for another day! In fact the only real problem I had was that the first half just didn't fit over the cruciform on the laser cut parts. No problem, with some reasonably heavy trimming I got it pinned in place, before realising I had the fuselage upside down on the stand, and I was fitting the wrong piece in place!! I had to glue the trimmings back onto the cruciform, and then it fitted perfectly- as it would have done initially! The wing sheeting needs extending out to the vac formed parts- a simple enough job.The final build job I have done was simply fitting servo plates in the wings. 100% straightforwards- rails and 1/8" ply plate on top, with a hole cut in to fit the servo in. Unfortunately I didn't have any servo leads long enough for a single extension wire to run out of the wing, and I don't like using 2 or more, so I can't mount the servoes and skin the bottom of the wing, which is a little frustrating. I have ordered some, so I should be able to in a couple of days. Note the angles are deliberate, to be square with the angled TE, not that I was drunk! Servoes are Ripmax SD200s. First time I have used mini servoes, and they look scarily small. I would feel happier with full size ones, but Graham used these, so I am sure they are up to the job, and lets face it this won't be a 3D machine! One "job" I did when I fixed the motors in place was "test" them all. The wires for the retracts and motors all run into the fus- another spaghetti junction build! Anyway, everything went well on firing up 3 motors- it certainly feels like there will be plenty of push! The 4th wasn't such a happy experience though. I was doing them 1 at a time (I still haven't run them all at once!) The speed controller got hot and melted the plastic wrapping in places- and this was just with the 6V receiver battery connected! I am going from memory, but I am sure I didn't connect the 4S LiPo when it went. Interestingly, I later on decided to try the dodgy esc again and it worked faultlessly. I have ordered a replacement though- better safe than sorry. One bit of fettling involved making the wings an easy fit onto their aluminium rods. A bit of sanding, and it was done (that made a long frustrating job sound easy!). With the wings on this plane looks big!! That's my LA racer on the chair behind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton 1 Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Thats looking amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 It's still very rough in a lot of places, and there's a lot to do, but it is starting to look very imposing. The motors make a fair racket too! All 4 should sound pretty good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyS Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Andy, I'm still watching with awe! Quick question. Never having purchased oleos... I've fitted some E-Flight electric retracts to a model Mosquito and it would be great to fit oleos. Do these slide over the retract rod? It would make sense if they did, or do you have to cut the strut and attach the new oleo? Thanks Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Hafner Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 looks like its gonna be a good one Andy As for the F-Glass thrust tube covers there are various ways to make them, for best results you'd want to make a positive that you can make a mold from and them make a part from that, but this is a lot of work for a one off model, and it turns out relatively expensive per part then. Another option would be to make a solid foam version, and then put a few layers of glass coth on it, sand it smooth and then remove the solid foam, if it needs to be a bit stronger you can always add a few more layers of cloth on the inside then. If you're interested making moulds etc. I found a lot of usefull stuff on EasyComposites, they have a load of how to videos on youtube too. Hope some of that is usefull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Oleos have a hole in them that slides over the rod that comes out of the retract unit. It can be awkward getting oleos to match the retract unit/plane- I know Timbo had a thread where he was looking to shorten a pair of oleos to his requirements. One option is to get some custom built- unitracts do good ones, and I think they are up trading again. I went a slightly different route and just bought several sets from HK and picked the one that worked best. My U/C isn't scale- the scale wheels were about 1"- they would never have flown from our field. I do have some ideas for a cheat, but space looks a little tight inside the wing, with the position of the wing bolt- but I haven't abandoned the idea. Thanks Stefan- I will have a closer look at that later- I do like new techniques.Edited By andy watson on 14/08/2011 10:08:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BizJet Tech Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 What I did to get the engine fairings was simple. I cut two slots in a 15mm plank (a B&Q shelf actually) I then inset 2 40mm plastic drain pipes using lots of epoxy. The front sections were just polyfilla. I measured the gap between the ribs and drew lines on the wood using a ballpoint pen. I really scored it deep. When dry, I shaped the filler and then applied copious quantities of wax polish and using the pen marks as a guide I fibreglassed the area with the lightest fabric I could find. When set I popped it off. A side result of the heavy penlines was the ink got picked up by the resin and so I had great cutting marks. Fluke! Remember mine is a reduced version of Graham’s. Only 45” span with 40mm fans, so the pipes will need to be bigger. It’s a bit gash but the principle works. The pic shows the first effort and shows the mistake. The pipe needs to be angled into the wood to allow for the wing shape. If you look at a Vulcan underside you’ll see what I mean. So I did them again. The outer surface is really quite smooth but as xxx said a male mould would be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Cheers Biz, I'm not sure if I will use that method on this build now, I think I would need to have done a few different things. Glad to have seen something new though- I would definately have done it like that earlier in the build though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Dorschell Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Posted by andy watson on 14/08/2011 00:16:13: It's still very rough in a lot of places, and there's a lot to do, but it is starting to look very imposing. The motors make a fair racket too! All 4 should sound pretty good! really looking great , well done - some pics of me at Doncster with the full size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Dorschell Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Dorschell Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Dorschell Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Hi Graham- I hear you have been complaining to my mates at Rolls Royce I don't answer my emails! Everyone said you were a top bloke- and I thought I had always answered them. Maybe you just meant I hadn't told you much recently- because not much had got done. I took it part built to out club scale weekend, and it went down really well- even in its scruffy state. Really got the bug to get on with it now- especially as it was the only thing that performed properly for me over the weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Dorschell Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Posted by andy watson on 22/08/2011 00:07:45: Hi Graham- I hear you have been complaining to my mates at Rolls Royce I don't answer my emails! Everyone said you were a top bloke- and I thought I had always answered them. Maybe you just meant I hadn't told you much recently- because not much had got done. I took it part built to out club scale weekend, and it went down really well- even in its scruffy state. Really got the bug to get on with it now- especially as it was the only thing that performed properly for me over the weekend! Oh - Ya , my fauly entirly , I have not been loged into this forum and usually it alerts me to when your on . The email is sent to me then usually I would email back . Ya you have lots of fans at your club - well done and keep up the good work . We all tryed to formate with the rest of the V force but a little bit of a disaster . Still a brilliant day but sadly I may not be able to go again . Cars going to get floged . I think your model is really coming along and would be great to see it . Going to Barkston this week end - will try and fly on the electric slot Sat evening . If you wish to attend . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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