Flair Magnatilla build.

[Gaz Reed]

Hi Guys,First off this is my 1st post,only joined today.Fixed wing and buiding are new to me,i have been into rc heli`s for apx a year so have some rc knowlege.

I have for many years built 35th scale armour kits to a good standard but want a fresh chalenge so here i am with a Flair Magnatilla ready to go.

There are for sure going to be areas of the build i will not understand so is this the correct section to post in? I would say the Magnatilla is "semi" scale BUT also "traditional"

I will also need to ask about Engine install etc only having used Electric motors to date.

I am pleased with the kit by looks so far,some parts not to cleanly cut but not bad.The palns and manual are well detailed for the beginner builder and thats what SMC said on the phone.

After looking at the plans last night it seems before i do much else i need to get the motor bought for layout.Will get a four stroke but not sure of size yet.Or come to that ,brand also.

Anyway thats me introduced,so untill my next post : )

[Concorde Speedbird]

Hello, and welcome to the Forum. This is the correct catergory.

Glad to hear you're building, it is a lot more satisfying than ARTF's! We had a Magnattila, and that was a great plane. It should be okay as your first plane with RC experience, but it may be advisable to get to a club and have an experienced fixed wing flyer with you.

This'll take 40-60 four strokes. The top quality 4 stroke makers are Saito, OS and Laser. But they are more expensive. (Laser are BRITISH though!)

The cheaper brands are ASP and SC, and they make fine engines that run brilliantly.

I would take a look at SC engines, maybe the 52.

Have fun!

CS

[Gaz Reed]

Just been to my LHS looking at engines to see whats about and the guy there also said the SC52 FS is a good bang for the buck.A lot cheaper than OS and he said he rarely gets any come back with probs.So i went with the SC52.The only let down was the guys there have no real experience with the Magnatilla which is proberly why they do not stock any self build kits.

Having a quick look at the plans now i have the engine i can see the 2 stroke would of been easier to fit.Just by holding the metal cowling to the bulk head engine i can see that getting the plans apx 15mm prop driver from front of cowl with not work as standard.The engine needs to be let into the bulkhead.Do not know if i should ask for advice on that here OR just take the engine back ASAP and swap for a 2 stroke.

[Jimbo565]

Gaz,

Welcome from me,As you rightly say the 4s needs to be mounted further back to maintain the correct distance for the cowl.

As you have not started the build see if you can move the firewall rearwards enough to mount the engine normally and give you the correct spacing at the cowl,the 4s is the way to go ,dont want a 2s silencer hanging out in the breeze on this type of model

stay cool

JIm

[Concorde Speedbird]

Keep the four stroke. It sounds nicer than a two stroke, uses less fuel and less oil comes out of the exhaust, which increases the life of the airframe. And like Jim says, you don't want a massive silencer hanging out!

See if you can mount the firewall back in the fuselage, enough to make it fit perfectly. Not very difficult to do.

Remember, part of the fun of building is overcoming problems! Maybe a picture of the plan with the engine on it would help us see the problem. These threads will help you do that and other things.

2012 Forum How To's

Have fun building!

CS

[Gaz Reed]

I must admit i would like to run a 4stroke.I think at this stage in my build "rep ar tee" i would not like to attempt to move the bulk head/firewall further.Is it the done thing to recess the bulkhead? I think i will get more of a idea once the build starts.at this stage it looks like hard wood bearers are used and not a grp mount.Perhaps the engine can slide back on the bearers to a suitable cut out.Untill i have a good look this cutout might need too much taken.I have been looking for posts on the Magnatilla but supervised to see practically none.

[Concorde Speedbird]

Have a look at this thread. Fitting a 52 four stroke, so this should help.

CS

[john s]

Hi Gaz,

somebody was asking about this build a few days ago, so my remarks will be familiar to some, sorry.

I put one together after not flying for a long time, using a 52 four stroke, and covered in my favourite covering Solartex, easy to use and adds strength.

Its an absolute treat to fly you have made a good choice!.

I followed this build thread when I built mine and found it very helpful.

**LINK**

John

[Djay]

Just fit a balsa extension to the firewall and let the cowl mounting blocks into this, to extend the cowling to cover the four stroke.

Make a ring out of balsa aprox 1 inch wide and just glue it to the firewall and sand flush with the rest of the fuse before covering.make it long enough that the cowl will sit flush or slightly over it and give aprox 1/8th inch prop clearance.

Darryl

[Gaz Reed]

Djay,That fix seems too good to be true,very simple.At the moment i am not able to get at the parts to have a rough measure BUT how much can you "add" before things look out of place?

The second thing you touched on that i forgot to ask is prop cleance,not near the kit to confirm but i think "prop driver to cowl 15mm"was stated.The prop driver on the SC is not the thick knerled washer typr i have seen before,it more like a collet? how to i work distance out. Is your 1/8th clearance from thr back of the prop hub?

[Djay]

when you have the fuse built but uncovered,and engine mounts built in, position the motor as far back as it will go, allowing for needle valve access, and measure from the firewall to the back of the prop.

the prop driver is the disc the back of the prop sits against., you want about 1/8 inch stickling out the front of the cowl.Then measure the length ofd the cowl and your fuse extension will be that thick, usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch. The cowl will but up against the extension.

get some balsa sheet ( or glue together some different trhicknesses) and cut out a circle shape roughly the same size as the outside of the fuse. Can be made from multiple sections if the sheet is not wide enough. Then cut out the centre to give a ring aboout 1 inch wide and glue onto the firewall. Sand flush with the fuse outer skin.

Trial fit the cowl with the engine in place and hopefully all will be good. the extension can be sanded down if to long, or another thickness of balsa added if to short. Mark where the cowling mount blocks will go and either glue them flush on the extension ring, backed with a bit of triangular stock, or recess them into the ring, using 30 min epoxy. There is no limit to when it will look out of place as you will sand it flush so it looks like part of the fuse, and then cover it, so no joints will show.

Donnt forget to fuel proof everything in sight on both sides of the firewall before covering.

I usually drown the inside tank area with spray polyurethane varnish till it runs out everywhere, smelly but works ok, and coat the front of the firewall area with diluted 30 min epoxy, (use isopropryl alcohol or some other solvent.

Darryl