philip rosamond Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Been using lama 4 and big lama for quite a while now and thinking of a more challenging mcpx ......can i buy a bnf and use the 2.4ghz tx from the big lama .........phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Hi Philip, yes, but only so long as the Tx is DSM2 or DSMX based such as Spektrum. What were you using in the Lama? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip rosamond Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 Oh....... its an esky hobby et4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Whiskey Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Get a blade 130 instead of the Mcpx - much better tail holding ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip rosamond Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 But is the 130 more difficult to fly........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 You will still need a spektrum compatible tx with the Blade 130. Have a good read around a few forums first as the 130 seems to be suffering from poor quality build issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barryorbik Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Until the 130x V2 is released with all the tail gear faults corrected I would suggest getting and MCP-x and a DX6i or DX8. The MCP-x is fantastically bounceable and unless you are performing extreme 3D with it the most of its tail holding problems have been cured with the longer tail boom and tail blade fopund on the V2. I have a V1 with a self modified tail and a V2 with the factory mods and both fly extremely well. Only worthy upgrade I would suggest for the MCP-x is to fit the Micro heli CNC swash, as the anti-rotation pin on the plastic one will break in a decent crash!! Have fun Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james nicholson Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I agree mainly with Barryorbik. The mcp-x is brilliant and I reckon is the best way to get into collective pitch helis. Do not go for the RTF package though .. the transmitter supplied is not really suitable for a beginner CP heli pilot. The mcp-x is fast and twitchy so you will need a radio capable of reducing control throws and with expo and possibly blade pitch reduction ... or you will quickly become frustrated and give up. Most of the breakages to my mcp-x occurred when I was using the supplied transmitter ... I didn't make any real progress until I got a dx6i. The blade 130x is actually easier to fly because it is less affected by wind and the tail certainly holds better. I have quite a few flights on mine (sports flying) and have only had to replace bits because of 'user error'. This is now my favorite heli .. it feels like my Blade 450 to fly (perhaps even crisper control) but because of it's size it is easy to fly in the garden and is less scary. That is also another issue which is worth thinking about ... CP heli blades tend to rotate at approx 2500 to 3500 rpm .. far faster than a coaxial or fixed pitch heli. Because of this I find the Blade 450 terrifying to fly ( I have permanent scars on my arm from a dumb thumb moment ) and whilst the 130x is far less intimidating it is still scarier than the mcp-x . Even the mcpx will draw blood if someone comes into contact with the rotors. In a very round about way I am recommending an mcpx as it take knocks, bumps and unexpected landings better than any other CP heli ... but with a computer radio (dx6i or dx8). A decent radio is invaluable in this hobby and arguably more important that the model you are flying. I also reccommend getting a bunch of batteries for your mcpx so you can prolong the fun .. just don't buy the official ones because they are underpowered and extremely over priced. I have been very pleased with the hobbyking turnigy ones ... but other (possibly better still ones) are avaliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reno Racer Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I learn to fly Helis on an MCPX, so its not that difficult to fly. As many have mentioned though, you will need a Spectrum TX. Been a Futaba man, i bought it complete with their DX4, which although OK, I did feel a massive difference when flying a friends MCPX on his top end JR TX. The difference expo and a good programmed set up makes is a vast difference from a DX4 with no expo and basic settings. So if you do get an MCPX (its a great littel Heli), my advice would be to by at least a DX6i to go with it. At least you then have the Tx, which allows you to coninue with their BNF blade series, or even just Parkzone aeroplanes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip rosamond Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Brilliant advice ........covered the bits i was wary of................better tx with it seems the way to go, ......thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Whiskey Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Agreed with the better Tx all the way, but I've had the mcpx and msr and seen 3 brand new 130's down our club and they have all taken a few knocks, like the mcpx & msr do and they are straight back up again 9 times out of ten flying over longish grass. You'll soon get bored with the mcpx (well I did) and with the 130 you can do much more when the time comes for you and it handles much better being a little bigger. For the same price roughly it's a no brainer IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barryorbik Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 If you are quick Philip there is an as new MCP-x in its box on the BMFA classified for £50.00 - and thats got to be a steal at that price. Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip rosamond Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Is the dx5e just as good as the dx6i i have found one for £49.95....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 No the dx5e is just basic radio, it does have a dual rates switch that gives 75% servo throws on all channels but there is no Expo setting or computer function. Servo reversing is via a set of physical switches where the LCD is in the DX6i. I have a dx5e as a backup TX and to buddy box with on fixed wing, but for helicopters you really need the DX6i for the advanced settings like flight mode, throttle hold, Expo, throttle and pitch curve programming etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip rosamond Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Ok last question should i go for version 1 or 2 ......any significant differences.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 The differences are that v2 has a different main board with newer 3 axis gyro, it has bigger tail blades and has small rubber dampers on the swash.I have a v1 and have installed the v2 tail blades and dampers and it flies fine.If I was going to get a new MCPX today I would probably get the V2. A friend also has the v1 and broke his main board after lots of crashes and he says he is having problems getting a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
An Engineer Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Just in case it helps anyone... Mine came with 2 of the four canopy mounts broken by its previous owner. Gluing them proved to be a waste of my time, but I got impatient waiting for my new frame to arrive so I found this workaround. Get a dressmakers pin. Heat the tip until very hot. Carefully and with precision (I recommend a cold practice first) c push the hot pin into the exact centre of where the broken pin comes out of the frame. It will not penetrate very far, but should provide a good starting point. BY the second or third attempt the pin will go in about 6mm / 1/4 inch and if my experience is anything to go by, if you allow it to cool in situ it will stay there. Cut it to the right length and use a bit of servo wire insulation to cover the bare metal of the pin. I was expecting to have to resort to super glue at some point, but both of my repairs have just gone together and held without any glue being added. My frame has arrived, but so far crashing only seems to bend the top pin, which is easy to unbend, so I haven't had to use it yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydeflyer Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Two and a half years on from the last post on this thread I know but I've just bought a second hand Mcpx V2 as a RTF package and after a few clumsy attempts to fly have broken it already! Not ever having messed with a heli before, never-mind trying to repair one, I would value some advice on its problem(s) and potential solutions. The model was crashed fairly heavily but apart from the canopy flying off there seemed to be no obvious damage. When I re-tried it the model it immediately went round in a circle. On close inspection it was obvious that the tail rotor plug into the circuit board was disconnected. When it was plugged back in and the model was powered up, the tail rotor spun-up at full chat without any input on the throttle and some smoke issued from the main motor. I switched off immediately but there was no sign of damage to wiring or circuitry. At first I though the rotor plug may be reversed so I turned it round, re-tried and the tail rotor still spun -up. The main rotor is very stiff and although it can be spun-up on full throttle, after only a few seconds it dies out as if the battery is exhausted and the tail rotor continues to spin at full speed seemingly independent of the main rotor speed. Looks like a new main motor is required at relatively modest cost but will this cure the tail rotor problem? Is the tail rotor operation linked to the main motor in some way to make it operate proportionally? If it needs a new circuit board (About £45!) I won't bother! Any advice please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barryorbik Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Two and a half years of none flying may have been one of the reasons you had problems as the batteries are probably well past their best now. The main boards are expensive but if you are handy with a small soldering iron then replacing the three motor drive Field Effect Transistors (FET's) is fairly easily. They are readily available on the famous auction site for less than £5.00 and I suspect your tail motor FET has shorted out source to drain, making it run flat out and one of the main motor FET's has burnt out - that being the source of the magic smoke, as I have never had a motor smoke yet, they normally just get weaker and stutter before eventually stopping altogether as the brushes wear out. The tail motor FET is located on the left side of the circuit board immediately below the tail motor connection socket and the main moor FET's at the top centre of the board below the main motor connection socket. One other thing that may have contributed to the crash is the three linear servo's which suffer from oxidation of the slivered track which the slider travels along. When this oxidizes the servo's become erratic or do not operate at all, so when the initial repairs are done it would be worth dismantling all three servo's and carefully wiping both the black carbon and the silvered track with a cotton bud soaked in 3:1 oil. This is far better and longer lasting than spraying electrical contact cleaner into the servo's. Have fun and let us know how you get on. Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydeflyer Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Thanks Barry.. Sounds like you know what you're talking about! I'll start dismantling and have a look at the FETs then I'll see whether I have the skill to attempt a repair. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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