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Super Slinky


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Hello Gary, It would seem that Worden, Andy Horseman and self all moved the COG forward between 1 and 2 cm. You are unlikely to find problems moving it forward at these extents but my advice is on no account move it back from the plan point.

Personally, I would start at 1.5 to 2cm forward and experiment from there.

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Gary, great to read that another "e" version is being built. On my depron version the 2200 mAh 3s pack sits snug against the vertical former F2 which is 14mm in front of the wing's leading edge

Are you building to plan i.e. fully built up out of balsa and ply with film covering and what motor and lipo are you planning? I ask because you may need to open up the F2 to allow your chosen pack to come forward if using a lighter motor than the I.C. version.

Andy

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2013-02-17 12.34.34.jpg

I've added some depron covers for the u/c legs. Need to rethink method of attaching as the hot glue gave way on a less than perfect arrival. I also added some detail to the canopy as you can see form the picture. 

Thought I'd post some numbers for my electric power train. With a copy APCe 9x6 prop the numbers are 360 watts and 31 amps. I tried an APC sport/gas 9x6 prop and they dropped to 335 watts & 29 amps. Both props were tested with a fresh 2200 mAh 45/90c Nano-tech 3 cell lipo. Weighed the airframe with a 3300 3 cell pack and it's 1060 grams so will be acceptable for taking my A test. It's about time!! Still balances at my preferred 10mm infront of the c of g (as indicated on the plan) and hope to fly this set up in the next few days.

2013-02-23 15.32.45.jpg

Andy

Edited By Andy Horsman on 23/02/2013 18:45:26

Edited By Andy Horsman on 23/02/2013 18:46:22

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Tested again today but the wind was a little gusty to make it ideal. However with 3 deg downthrust (to calm the 40FP) and a couple of clicks of up elevator the upward soar when full power was applied from tickover has been eliminated. It was much improved though this really is a bird that needs full attention! It still may benefit from more testing and tweaking but I'm getting there.

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Hi Andy I am going to build your E version of Slinky Please can you help me with a few queries!

On your wing do you have the same dihedral as the plan? Or is the wing flat.

I do not understand about the 6mm Ali spar is it a solid bar or square tube, where is it positioned in the wing?

Have you made a removable cabin hatch between F2 and F3 for the batt?

thanks in advance Cheers John

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Hi John and thanks for your interest. I even had a mention in this month's RCM&E Alex has received loads of raw photos and video so there might be more in a forthcoming issue.

I've spent a frustrating hour trying to upload some more photos showing the battery access and hatch. The site keeps on hanging unless I upload one at a time.

The wing has the dihedral near as possible to the plan. The main wing is 6mm depron and I just scored a "V" grove at the mid point, propped up one side and filled the groove with low temp hot glue. The 6mm x 6mm ali spar is actually the piece that separates the two glass panels in a double glazed unit such as a french window or similar narrow gapped unit. Easy to bend and this was epoxied in a channel and covered by the 6mm KFm-4 panels that were glued on either side. The leading edge is stock balsa butted together at the centre and blended into the foam at either wing tip. The strip works really well in a flat wing but I wasn't happy with it's rigidity so I added 6mm x 1mm carbon flats behind the top and bottom KF panels. The strips were tack joined at the middle with foam CA and then wrapped with sewing thread soaked with more CA. I can now hold the model by one wingtip and there is zero flex. You can make out the carbon strip in one of the photos.

I hope the newer pictures give you an idea of how I make the lipo hatch. Big enough to take a 3300 mAh 3S pack but she is a bit more docile due to the extra weight. I could have made it shorter but I wanted to allow for room in case I need to move things around to achieve the correct c of g.

When it came to cutting the fuse sides I drew a line across from the l/e to the t/e making sure that this was level with the horizontal stab cut out. I cut a narrow piece of foam to the size of the KFm-4 profile and, allowing for the balsa l/e, drew around this for the exact shape of the wing seat. Incidently, the bottom of the fuse is filled in with 6mm depron and not left open as I figured this would compensate for the large top battery hatch.

The fuse sides are beefed up with wooden slats that were surplus from an Ikea blind! The wing and u/c dowels pass through these and you can see 2 smaller pieces sticking up to to help locate the canopy.

I think that should clear things up a bit. If you need any more info then just ask

Andy

Edited By Andy Horsman on 06/03/2013 20:23:58

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Hi Andy Thanks for all your efforts getting the photos up! A picture is worth a thousand words! That has fully answered all my queries for the time being anyway, Your vids are great who would have thought you could get bits of Ikea and double glazed windows to fly!!!!

Thanks once again, Cheers John.

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  • 5 months later...

Nearing completion Pam & Logan (d'missus & young fella) think it looks evil & sinister and I know all the bad things of flying black planes. All that remains is control horns & linkage.

Power is from an OS 35AX, I dod make a few mods to the plans, inverted engine, stream lined cowl and added cheeks. The wing is foam core of bolt on design.

With a little help on Wx side may get a test hop in this week.

SSlinky2.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Flew the Super Slinky today. Flys well with no bad habits, needs a tad bit of down thrust (probably caused by my building It'ds very quick with an OS 35AX turning an APC 9x7 prop.

Thanks Alex, was a straight forward build and the plane is a 'hoot' to fly!

Here's some shots of the first flight taken by my son Logan (11)

bauline2013 017.jpg

 

bauline2013 024.jpg

 

bauline2013 029.jpg

 

bauline2013 045.jpg

Edited By carl layden on 07/09/2013 17:56:58

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  • 3 months later...

Hi Stephen

nice to see another "E" Super Slinky although I see that you went for the trad construction method.I like the cockpit window shape. Makes it look even racier.

I would be interested to hear what your rtf weight is and the motor specs etc. I'm now running mine on a 4S 1800-2200 mAh pack set up for a bit more oomph.

Hope you have some decent flying weather soon and don't forget to post a video if you get chance. I'm now using the Mobius 720p/1080p HD action cam for my ground to air and aerial vids and it's a big improvement over the previous #16 cam

Andy

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I went with 2cm forward of the marked c of g on Alex's plan and this has worked for other builders. You are running a heavier motor than me so you should have no problem balancing with the pack back from the former.

The main problem with I.C. powered models and on board video is vibration. It causes lots of jello. It will be better on the SlinkyE but if you want a massive step up in quality (without the cost and weight of a GoPro) then I highly recommend the Mobius. There are two RC Group threads -support http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1904559&pp=100 with over 5600 posts since June 13 and owners http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1971523&pp=100

I use my Mobius more as a hatcam so I can record my flights. Just search YouTube under "heady2008" for my vids (163 and counting!)

Here's a recent video shot by one of the contributors

http://vimeo.com/83214627 shot using the old firmware, now had major tweeks.

Good luck with the maiden

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