Terence Moore Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Question for the engine experts:- I can comfartably fit a Kavan 14oz tank, and insulate, or squeez in a Dubro 16oz. but with hardly any foam packinf. with the K&B 100 r/e propped for 9k (or thereabouts) on a fixed length pipe....... will 14oz. give a reasonable flight time ( I don't fly at constant full throttle) Thanks in anticipation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 sorry for the typo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 Starting to shape up the pipe tunnel leaving plenty of airspace around the tuned pipe to allow a through put of air for cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 And the front of the canopy block, with an inlet hole for cooling air. Examination of completed "Bootleggers" by others shows lots of variations on this, some not having any inlet at all, others almost complete aperture between back of firewall and front of canopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dunning Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 Looking very good Terry. Can't beat a bit of balsa carving to 'whittle' away the hours! Sorry about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 My wife refers to it as wood whittling ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Michie Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Reference endurance Terry: For comparison, my ST .61 on a pipe, doing 14K, uses approx 2oz per minute at full throttle. IIRC, the DB 60 has a 12 oz tank, good for about 7-8mins of spirited flying. I'd say 14 oz might be a bit tight, but maybe best to ask Terry W.........................or limit yourself to 6 mins initially, until you establish actual usage for your style. Brgds Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks for the info Bill. I will probably start with the 14oz as I can pack around that better with vibration absorbing foam, set the motor & fuel flow for reliable operation, and if the run time is insuffiecient address that problem then. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Next I have set the dihedral + 10% under each wing tip and epoxied the wing panels, incorporating a 1/8" ply dihedral brace to hold it all together whilst the 30 min epoxy cures. Also time to check the alignment of the control surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 The previous photo showed the 1/8" strips glued in over the servo lead cut outs, as supplied by Steve. The dihedral brace strip, is forward of the wheel wells, at the deepest part of the wing. Draw strings for retracts and aileron servo's are positioned. Now ready for glassing the centre section, but will wait untill tailplane similarly set up, to avoid mixing 2 lots. Also gives time for repeated checking of alignments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 This shows the wing cut out for the flap servo, which will connect with single pushrod to the "strip aileron" type horns. Also can see the top surface position of the dihedral brace and draw strings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Have sanded the angle at the root of the tailplane halves, set up to give 2 1/4" +10% under each tip, and joined with 30 minute epoxy. Wings and tail now ready for epoxy glass bandage reinforcement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Sorry about the orientation of that last picture..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 The next step was to reinforce the centre sections of wings and tailplane with fiberglass bandage. Heavier duty for the wings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Sorry about picture orientation, but next was to position the wing to the fuselage, temmporarily whilst drilling through for the dowels. At this stage I measure from each wingtip to centre of the rear fuselage, to ensure symmatry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 When satisfied with the alignment, I protect the leading edge of the wings with cling film, and epoxy (30 min) the dowels in whilst they are projecting through the fuselage bulkhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Hi Terry This is looking great. How much down flap can you manage with those torque rods. I am struggling to get more than about 50 degrees. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Martyn, I can also only get about 45-50 degrees of down flap. However in a similar configuration on my Revenger, this was sufficient to produce a marked reduction in approach speed, as well as a steeper angle . One drawback of the torque rods is the "interference" between flap pushrods and rear wing holding down bolts. My next posting should show this, and how I resorted to a single (larger than normal diameter) plastic bolt, with thicker plate for the spike nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 As per last posting, I had to "shape" the wing bolt plate around the flap torque rods. therefore I laminated 2 thicknesses of 3/16" ply to "beef it up". The first thickness was fitted into the precut slots in the ply fuselage sides, reinforcing the edges with triangular balsa stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 The second layer was left slightly loose to allow a degree of adjustment, before epoxying ( 30 minute again ) and clamping into place, with the wing fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Hi Terry You are running into similar problems that I am having with the Magic. Also interfering with the Servos in the Fus - I have had to relocate those - hence delay in my posts on the Magic build (plus a total shortage of space.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Fortunately the Bootlegger fuselage is quite deep, so the servo's don't clash, just the pushrods & horns to the flaps. Makes you wonder how they squeeded in the older larger sized analogue servo's etc in the 1960's & 70's. Ah well, the joys of building it yourself. ARTFers don't know what they are missing!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Next comes fitting the tailplane to the fuselage, needs to be correctly positioned in all three dimensions, starting with checking the incidence of the wing, which I have set at + 1/2 degree, as per modern F3A models. This is a departure from the plan. We will see how it behaves in flight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Then I set the tailplan at 0 degrees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Moore Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Three dimensional check starts with tail tips to wing, visually set when looking down the centre line of the fuselage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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