Former Member Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 I like the idea of a covering bench Percy; I usually end up with too much on the bench and the inevitable dings. I will see if I can contrive something. Pleased to say that the undercarriage blocks and servo bay all went in well; I used a small router bit on my Proxon drill and it worked a treat although the polystyrene dust went everywhere and its a pig to get rid of. The instructions come with a simple paper template for getting the blocks in the right place; quite impressed with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Morgan Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Where are the wings? But all looks good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 Welcome aboard Charles! Glad to see that you have joined in. The wings are now joined and the centre section glassed. U/c blocks in and one aileron fitted. The ailerons taper by 1/4 inch at the tip but the applied tapered stock is much wider than shown on the plan presumably to get the required thickness. So, I am wondering whether to cut the strip down and re sand to get the right trailing edge thickness or to leave it alone and simply have a slightly wider aileron. I have reduced the tip without problem but reducing the other end would require quite a lot of wood to be removed. I will post a pic later to show what I mean. dry assembly of the model produces a sturdy and businesslike aeroplane that looks as though it will be a lot of fun; I am very happy with the kit so far another decision is whether to use film to cover the airframe ( probably solartex) or to use glass and Ezecote. In the Previously I have used glass and pu varnish which works really well especially if used with a bit of talcum powder. I am leaning towards glass st the moment perhaps with some solartex on the control surfaces to resemble a fabric covering on those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 The plans show 1" ailerons tapering down to 3/4". The supplied stock is 11/2" wide so if I cut that down I end up having to sand down a fair amount to get the correct taper - see photo below. Having cut this sample, sanding down is not such a big deal so I will probably do it rather than have the 50% greater width Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 Charles, to put your mind at rest! I have done my usual with one of the pilots by resetting his head at an angle to give a bit more animation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Starting to take shape now . Looks great Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted September 26, 2014 Author Share Posted September 26, 2014 Thanks Brent; I will add a small coming behind the rear cockpit to resemble the Maggie. In a funny sot of way I like the freedom of being able to add some detailing without having to worry too much about being true to scale; I have more than enough scale satisfaction on the 1/4 scale moth, and my little DB Moth turned into a bit of a mission but this airframe feels very relaxed if you know what I mean . I have started to doodle out some designs for a pair of oleos and am looking forward to a bit of lathe time. Again, I don't have to worry about exactitude so I can just fiddle around with something that looks right. Not sure on the washout Percy, I am away for a couple of days and will check when I'm back. funnily enough it looks more pronounced in the photo than it actually is. I am pleased with the fit between the wings and the fuselage; I have not had to do anything to it at all. As you say, reassuring simplicity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Morgan Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Difficult choice re airelons all looking very good, thanks re pilots,they are very important and need to feel looked after!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Percy, I measured the washout at about 3mm at the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Away for a few days so no real progress. However, I have painted the pilots,, they are the same as those used in my DB Tiger. Judging by the expression on the pupil's face I think he has had a roasting from his instructor - and they have not even flown together yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Very good Percy, yes, you might be right. I decided to try some oleos from HK as opposed to making my own (I might still try that as a project in any event) and they arrived this morning (about 10 days from the international warehouse) I fancied the trailing link and I must say they do not disappoint. No I know that they are not scale for the Magister, but as I'm not building scale I went for satisfaction rather than authenticity! The plans show a 4" leg and the oleos are sold as 100mm to c/l of the axle. However, am I missing something? the top of the leg is solid 11mm diameter (it seems to be a tube with an insert), I had anticipated a hole in the top into which I would insert a piano wire "leg", this then fixed with a grub screw onto a plat filed on the piano wire. But no hole and no grub screw. I guess that I could take the thing apart and put it in the lathe to drill out a suitable hole, but perhaps there is an obvious alternative fixing intention that I am not familiar with. Am I just being thick? I don't really want to take the leg apart as the link is held together with tiny circlips that will, knowing me, ping off somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Looking at HK website again I can see now that the units are intended to be used with Turingy retracts. If I had ordered the offset type I would have been okay. I should have looked a bit harder. Not to worry, I am sure they can be modified. Fitted the wing dowel and bolt plate tonight; I had been putting it off, but it was easier than I had anticipated. I eventually trimmed the ailerons down; they are now only slightly wider than the design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Thanks Percy. I think that there are a couple of options; either take the leg to bits and drill out for a wire fixing or alternatively as you suggest some sort of streamlined hardwood fairing drilled to accept the outside diameter of the leg and screwed to the existing ply u/c plates in the wing. Actually, if I laminate something up in birch ply it might be less inclined to split. The fairing could accommodate a landing light perhaps. The fairing route is possible since if it does not work it's easily reversible. If I mess up drilling the leg its a bit of a one way street, weight wise there probably won't be much in it given the length of fairly hefty piano wire involved. Time to fiddle I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Okay, so here is a possible prototype for the leg mounting, it's made from 3 laminations of 6mm ply. The idea is to fit it using a conventional wire leg fixing detail to provide some torque. The fairing needs a bit more shaping but it seems good and firm. However, the 11mm drill that I bought especially does not drill an 11 mm hole. So, I will put a saw cut into the front of the block and bolt through the block and leg spigot together. The alternative to the piano wire idea would be to bolt the fairing to the wing but I am thinking that this could rip out given a heavy landing . A third option is a short length of piano wire that passes through the fairing and oleo instead of a bolt and is then clamped to the wing either side using saddles. The torque wire seems the best option to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Morgan Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 1 I would check with manufacturers for normal fixings.2 Drill horizontally through near the top.Make a plate for the leg to go into a push fit hole. Plate prob be about half inch thick. A horizontal bar would go through the hole drilled near the top and held by a fixing of the bar to the block all to hold the leg into the block and prevent the leg from rotating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Morgan Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Just seen the other post!! I would say that the top of the leg should be completely rigid as per my post, the loop takes all the wheel movement and strain, the top of the leg should be ridged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Morgan Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Sorry should read oleo takes all the strain, surely that is what it is for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Thanks Percy I like the idea of milling something up, but I don't have the facility at the moment. I decided to stop faffing about and drill out the end of the oleo so that it would sleeve over the piano wire. I need not have worried about the circlip; once removed the leg was easy to dismantle and 5 minutes in the lathe sorted out the hole. It's a much better solution although it will still need a fairing of some sort to tidy up what would otherwise be a slightly untidy gap between the top of the oleo and the underside of the wing. I just need to drill and tap for some grub screws. As a result of the radius of the bend in the piano wire, the oleo assembly is about 110 mm now which will change the angle of attack when the aeroplane is on the ground. Once the tail is up I guess that will not matter. I can pull the wheels forward slightly as well and this will compensate and possibly improve any risk of nose over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Just seen your post Charles, thanks. Your option 1 is similar to the ply fairing block and I did actually mock up something exactly as you suggest. I sort of agree about the purpose of the oleo, but my worry was that if the top is rigid a hard landing might rip it off ; the oleo would take up vertical movement in its long axis, but would it not suffer if it contacted the ground so that you had more front to back movement? As usual I have made heavy weather out of something fairly simple! Foam wheels as well will help absorb shocks. Mind you, my landings are not always greasers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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