rc boy Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 HI I what is the best way to transfer drawings from plans to foam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 what sort of foam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc boy Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 its epp foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 I have used many methods for getting drawings from plans to materials. These are:Use a pin to transfer the outline through the plan onto the material by pricking through the line on the plan. Connect the dots with a pen and cut along the line with a sharp knife.Use tracing paper to trace the shape from the plan and then pin it to the foam on your workboard. Then cut round it with a sharp knife.Measure all the lines and angles on the plan and transfer them to the material (although this doesn't work for more complicated shapes)I have heard of some people ironing the ink through onto the material, but i tried this and it wasn't sucessful. Try all the methods if you can and find one that suits you best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc boy Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 thanks jonathan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Taylor Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 Hiya RC BoyIf your EPP is black, you may have an interesting time trying to see black lines.I would suggest photocopying the plan, cutting out the shapes (in paper) you need, sellotaping (other brands are available yada yada) the plan cutouts onto the EPP, and then cutting through the lines on the plan, into the EPP with a sharp (and long, if the EPP is deep) craft knife/stanley knife/scalpel.Hope this helps.AlistairT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 The inks used in inkjet printers do not seem to transfer well, if at all, and there is often a size problem as the copier distorts the original. But the older Xerox type office/library photocopiers were accurate and gave a good transfer of black ink if ironed directly onto wood (obviously mirrored), but I have not tried it onto EPP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc boy Posted May 19, 2008 Author Share Posted May 19, 2008 thanks this really helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 hi why not try using a prit stick just copy your plans cut them out and stick it on if you cut your patterns straight away the glue will not have cured and you can peel it off ,tack it on and there will be no mess happy building .....mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc boy Posted June 1, 2008 Author Share Posted June 1, 2008 I have started building and I decided to use one of jonathan lewzey's methods by using a pin to transfer the outline from the plan to the foam and it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Linaras Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 hI every one!I would like to ask if someone has Bushwacker plans in a format that can be sent via email .I tried to find the plans or the issue but it was impossible thanks everybody geoli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Chell Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Just starting to build a 63" span Mosquito from plans, adopted the scanner, cut out, and prit stik approach as recommended by a member of this forum (Until today I did not know this was a valid technique). It seemed like a good place to start, simple is good sometimes!Could anyone advise as to how to bend balsa sheet for the fuselage and thin section for the longerons, I have snapped some already for the nose section. I do seem to remember steam was used as a kid, any advice would be gratefully received. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 hi Andy i have a model with rolled balsa sides what you do is this ......using med to soft thin sht first lightly spray the outside service with water an indoor plant spray with fine mist is good ,hold in place on your model then with a hairdryer or better still a heat-gun on low setting gently heat your "moist" balsa whilst gently bending over your formers if you do this before you glue and tack down with tape when you then you are ready to glue them down your less likely to snap them simply wet again and heat slowly , with practice it does get easier it worked on my mustang fine as for the longerons you could score the inside which will allow a lot more flexibility a boat techique we use at work is to again wet the stringers bend to the right shape ant hold in-place until dry (its called prebend) takes the stress out of the wood ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Chell Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Many thanks, will try this method.Regards,Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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