James Hindle Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Well i got my blizzard finished ready for maiden hopefully on Friday if the monsoons abate, there's a build review on our club site www.nlmfc.org if anyones interested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasa_steve Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 hi guy's keep us posted on your results james. the blizzard has fallen in my lap for review apart from the glue i'm waiting for i doubt it will take long to build. i thought i'd try the zacki elapor glue as you have to be real quick with cyano and kickernasa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Look forward to your thoughts and comments Steve.... I rather fancy one of these m'self ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 I just finished building my Blizzard this evening. The recommended c of g is 70mm, but since the wing is only 140mm, that makes it 50% of chord - ie unusually far back. I'm not certain whether to try the first flight like that or move the c of g forward. Can anyone who has already flown their Blizzard comment on the c of g? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fog Dart Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 I have seen one of these flying a few times - awesome. simple as that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hindle Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Last friday (the only day we ever seem to be able to fly) I gave our tame hotliner pilot the blizzard to see what he thought, he liked it from the off but thought the recommended CG was too far forward, this leaves me with a dilema and to be honest the biggest bug bear with the kit... the mpx connector, the pins simply stick too far down to allow for a decent battery to fit, I know i'm using a 4s setup but if you read the forums so are a lot of people.I'm faced with 2 choices, shape lots of lead to replace the balls or undertake some precision soldering to allow the mpx connector to sit flush, the latter is preferable and I think that my only option is to hack the rear of the slot the MPX connector fits into and then bend the pins so they sit flat ...... Wish me luck ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nasa_steve Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 hi james why use the MPX connecter my review kit did'nt even have it in there so i'll just go with conventional fit leads on mine mine is a little waylaid as the motor spacer was missing as well. so the review will take a little longer than i'd hoped. i've also got to get another battery as the 2500's i've got won't fit so i'm waiting for my supplier to get some EVO LITE v2 2500 3s in which is comparable in size to the recommended MPX oneregardssteve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 You have to buy the Multiplex connector separately, which is a nuisance. And such a pain to solder! Or maybe I'm just a klutz when it comes to soldering ... You're right that you can easily build it without the Multiplex connector if you want. By the way, my Blizzard, with two tail servos and no motor, came out tail heavy. I guess it's only with a heavy motor up front that you might need to put a ball bearing in the little compartment in the tail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hindle Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 I'm using very porky AXI 2820/12 (or 10) getting old I'm taking the plunge tonight with the MPX connector, I'll post the results if its a success .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hindle Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Well after an hour of far*ing around with the MPX connector, heat gun, soldering iron and saw I managed to bend the connectors, re solder and shrink and it works, I can now move the CG as far back as I want.As the 4S pack is within 2 mm of the connector I decided to put a layer of tape under the connector to stop rubbing, all I need now is a good Friday night to test it out .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 I've been flying the Blizzard for a couple of months now and I thought I would give a quick update report. Mine's unpowered, used for slope soaring.First of all, the Blizzard's flying qualities are fantastic. I can't think of anything to say to fault it. Marvellous: fast, aerobatic, purposeful, predictable, no vices.Mine's had quite a hard life, as slope soarers always do. The Multiplex plug connector hasn't lasted. That's because it takes the stress if the wing hits on landing. The wing is designed to move quite easily to protect it, but that means the connector gets twisted and eventually gives up the ghost. So I've fitted a new Multiplex connector that isn't attached to the wing or fuselage. I simply plug it in myself before bolting on the wing.The hinges are not robust. This harder elapor isn't as successful at hinging as the other Multiplex models with their softer Elapor. The aileron hinges tear slightly every time I have a bumpy landing. I can't quite figure out what stress is causing that. Maybe they're tearing in the air before I land? It's easy enough to cyano them back together, but it makes them a bit stiffer, and eventually they're too stiff for the micro servos. I can see that soon I'm going to have to cut them and replace them with silicon hinges.Apart from that, the news is good. That plastic nose takes big impacts without breaking. Everything else has survived well. The Blizzard is a great plane to throw up first to check out the conditions before risking expensive moulded slope soarers. I've flown it in ridiculously strong 35mph winds, and in weak 8mph winds, and it's proved it's up to the job. Because it's robust and not worth hundreds of pounds, it's really good fun to fly hard without feeling stressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S K Ng Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Gary,I am curious why you say that 'the wing is designed to move quite easily' in an impact. It is secured to the fuselage with 2 rather stout nylon attach bolts. Have u managed to shear the bolts? I have glued in my MPX connectors per the stock instruction, so I am curious..I agree with u about the Elapor hinges. The foam beads are cracking up. I will tape the hinge line with hinge tape to avoid failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 If a wingtip hits the ground the wing will rotate maybe 10 degrees or so, just because the leverage is so high on that high aspect ratio wing, and the bolts are only flexible plastic screwed into plastic. I haven't broken any. Lately I haven't twisted it at all because the winds have been lower. Had a good evening flying at Ditchling Beacon on the south downs yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S K Ng Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 OK, yeah now I get it. With that long wing and leverage I suppose the wing can rotate slightly without shearing off the bolts. Did u do any anti flutter mods? Mine is going to be powered with about 200W 3s setup. I am going to maiden mine this weekend so I'm in the final bit of finishing the plane. I have done the thin CA soak into the fish bones and am going to add the 1x3mm CF strip at the aileron hinge line. Perhaps I'll do tissue covering of the wing tip as well. Are there any other mods over there that have been done to fix the wing flutter? FG tape applied crisscrossed towards wing tip is one I have found from RCGroups. Any other smart low labour mods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 I have built a Blzzard for the slope only, and flew it last week for the first time. The construction has been covered in full by Steve in the November RCM&E (mine arrived this morning). My only comments. Did not use the Multiplex connector, I can see that it might give trouble later on. I glued mine together using Pacer Zap thin, I only used a few quick sprays of kicker to allow quick handling after assembly. I used JP servos for rudder and elevator, they were the same size as the Multiplex ones, but one layer of thin tape wrapped round made the gap between the fuselage halves too big, so they are glued in for good. (Ugh!). I recommend using thin servo wire extensions for all the servos, not much room for anything else or plugs. C of G 70 mm. I would have liked MPX to have made some provision for the 35 mHz receiver aerial to be hidden. Flying, off a Welsh slope in moderate winds, no complaints at all. (Qualities as posted by Gary, above).Needed no trim. Excellent value for money, recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Update to the above, flew the Blizzard in 40 mph. gusty winds, at the Orme today, was easy to launch, it coped completely with the wind, and was a delight to fly with no nasty habits, very enjoyable, Lee had a long flight with it and thought it was great. A true bargain at £65. If anyone is undecided about its ability as a slope soarer, don't hesitate, buy one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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