Braddock, VC Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 I'm practising uploading pix so excuse me if things go wrong..... Christ, it worked.This is a pic of the modified acrowot fuselage sides, the 1/32" ply doublers can be clearly seen as can the clamps. The 1/8" lightply wingseat doubler is epoxied over the 1/32" ply one.I write on the correct side of the fus TWU short for this way up to prevent making two right or left sides...works for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 These pics show how far I've gotten with the fus, regrettably on friday evening I had to take the u/c plate off as there was a tiny gap in one of the joins, knowing how much stress this component takes I cut it off and resanded it so it is a close fit. The upper pic shows the wing mounting plate, with a semicircular cutout, you can just see the extra bits of hard 1/4 x 1/4 I've stuck in to beef this up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 I seem to have lost a few posts, including several pix, I'll try and post them again tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 RIP-my acrowot few weeks ago--4 years old-os91 4stroke-loved it to bit's until i got the old low sun inverted-kapow- goodbye old pal. was thinking of buying a new one--had all the wots--good dependable everyday models--only thing nowdays is the price+building+covering+sourcing all the gear to finish/get in the air--strong case to argue for's/against's buying artf--if i buy kit i'm going to keep running total how much final cost-i estimate£170.00 final total. ken anderson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Ken, sorry to hear about your loss, it is a bit of a wrench. As to cost, you won't be too wide of the mark, but as I pointed out earlier acrowots (any wots) can be easily repaired with a small tube of cyno, it's only when a hi - velocity impact occurs that smashes the wings that they become basket cases. I gave £90 for my deluxe kit about 5 years ago, I smashed my other aw last year and had this was bought as a replacement in anticipation of the crash. I have all the covering materials to hand and the paints will be dulux gloss so I can't put a price on them, it's been built with glue at £5.50 for 5 litres, a couple of ounces of 30 minute epoxy and instead of using the kit u/c and cowl I salvaged some from other crashes that include a carbon u/c from westons hype I think plus a cowl I bought from carbon copy for this build. Got it at a show and it had some cosmetic marks, as these were on the underside and disappeared when I cut out the cooling outlet I think it was a tenner well spent as overall they are three ounces approx lighter than the standard items. The only model I know of that is artf that looks like the AW is YT's Zlin 50 and that's about 150 ish and you still have quite a bit of assembly to undertake. Pressing on with my fus, all the wood is fastened to gether now and planed to shape. I've built a jig to sand the lower rear fus to 5/16" radius. I'll have to see how you upload pix and I'll post some asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 good on you john--probably cheaper to cover in £10.00 notes--look foward to see'ing your pic's. ken anderson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 This is my jig for sanding the corners to a smooth 5/16" radius, small piece of skirting board, 5/8" hole and a coupla cuts with the band saw then epoxy on some fine sandpaper, get the bulk off with a big sanding block and do the last knockings with the jig.This is the fus waiting for the last knockings on those radii at the bottom of the rear fus. I've gone on to finish that bit and the top of the fus, both front and rear, fuelproofed the wood right up to the wing seat and fit the engine mounting brackets. I've got the dope, thinners and nylon ready to cover the fus, had a trial run with the clearcoat fuel proofer, stank the place out so I'm going to buy the paint from fighter aces, as its water thinned therefore pongless. Almost certainly the colour is going to be silver gloss base withblack and dark red chris foss stripes on wings, tailplane and fin/rudder and some trim on the fus. My airbrushing has improved to the extent that I only make 1/2 a cock of it, if you know what I mean. I'm packing up for the weekend now, so work will continue on monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 All quiet for a few more days, have to get the tax returns for my business sorted out. I find it's not the paperwork that makes it so long winded but the checking and double checking that takes up all my time. And I don't get the same buzz as I do from building . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Glad I have found this thread as I have just completed a Acro Wot build myself. If it helps you my thread on the subject is in the "Electric Flight" section of this forum, just search for "Electric Arco Wot?" I'm still quite new to the hobby, only just got my "A" ticket.. so will be watching this thread too. The only problem I have had is working out the best way to fix the cockpit on... any tips from you who have been there and got the tea shirt would be most welcome jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Richards Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 I would use small screws (servo screws) into small re-enforcing blocks. You can also use narrow strips cut from solar trim insted of or as well as the screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Thanks Bruce I'll give it ago... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Tomlin Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 nylon doped fus, glass cloth wings, tail in tissue and dope? have you gone mad? just solartex it! talk about making work for yourself, that acrowot I had was solar tex'd and painted with cans, looked great! I'd be interested in the all up weight of your model cos it sounds like its going to be verrry heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 yep, had several of them over the years, all built exactly to Mr Foss' instructions and spec - solarfilm or tex and they were all superb models. Still an absolute classic....might even do another one day when the hanger is empty of part built models ( as if ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Timbo, sorry to contradict you, chris gives the film/tex options but if you read the instructions carefully you'll find his acro wot had a glass cloth covered fuselage and tissue and dope elsewhere and was painted. Weight isn't such an issue with traditional, ok antique, covering materials; remember almost all the dope evaporates off whereas with solartex there's a several micron thick layer of adhesive that doesn't evaporate. I won't argue that it's more convenient but if you use glosstex as I did don't kid yourself that it's lighter. To keep it clean the solartex instructions recommend a coat or two of ,umm, dope.......check out the specific weight per area of the various covering materials and you'll get the picture. I built two wot 4s for example, one was nylon fus, tissue, dope and paint elsewhere and was powered by a magnum 61 4 stroke, it weighed just under 5lbs in old money (IIRC 4lb 13 oz) the second one that I'm flying now is solartex and profilm covered and built exactly as per the other one with a saito 62 and it's 5lb 7 oz. The saito is lighter than the Magnum too. That's why I'm using the traditional stuff, additionally glass cloth and epoxy and nylon or tissue and dope become a stressed part of the airframe adding considerably to the strength of the plane whereas iron on stuff doesn't. As it happpens I have a roll of sig coverall that I may use on the wings. This is much lighter than solartex and much, much lighter than glosstex but, as it's held on by adhesive, it is still only a bag around the bits. Jon, I used pvc tape to hold the canopy on, v.cheap and lasting in the case of electric; easily replaceable on glows. Black goes with most colour schemes and if you keep your scalpel sharp it can be trimmed very neatly, me I don't bother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Hi John... I never remembered the instructions mentioning anything about alternative covering - however, my memory is lousy so I stand corrected - thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Timbo, the glasscloth/epoxy was just taking off in the early eighties, probably why cf chose it, I actually covered my middlephase wing with it and the wing is as good now as it was then and doesn't seem too heavy, the fus is still pretty strong too, covered in nylon held on with dope. As I said I prefer nylon and dope, it's easier to handle than glass cloth on the fus at any rate, if you're a dab hand at it the fus can be done with one piece of nylon. I prefer to use several pieces believing the overlaps in the nylon increase the strength and, as the overlaps go above the fus joints, it's smack in the right place to do the best job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 yo-just returned from a hunting trip with a new acrowot-to replace the one that went to vall halla a few weeks ago--bad weather forecast for nxt week-so building land here i come, ken anderson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Well done ken, if you're feeling devilish, google wholesale planes where you'll be directed to ashford model centre, they are knocking out tiger shark 91 aka J'en 91 for £50 complete with a v. large silencer. I've actually been busy at work, so mine's sitting there waiting on covering. I'm going to try fighter aces epoxy which is pong free, as I'm also after some paint which isn't in stock I'm waiting till that gets in so I only have to pay one set of p&p. 've finally decided on the colour scheme, as many are aware the model is based on the Zlin akrobat/50L and I've pinched the scheme from one of those I think I saw silver base, control bits ail,ele and rudder bright red and I'm also painting the whole underside red, just so I'll know which way up it is !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 go on john----my previous one had an OS 91-4st in---lovely jubbly--the new one will be the same---tried and tested-good combo...........yabba dabba doo. who needs to win the lottery-allready have ken anderson......................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Ken, was it nose heavy? Mine's having a saito 82, similar performance but a little less weight but I'm mounting the ele and rudder servos at the back . If it's then tail heavy I'll swap the carbon cowl, u/c and plastic spinner for the fibreglass kit ones and an alloy spinner to make it balance at the rear of the c/g range, just like my last one. I must say I'm really looking forward to the summer when I hope to get some stick time in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 john-a bit nose heavy-but i prefer them to bob there nose down wneh setting up the c/g --have fun . ken anderson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I've just spent a few hours sanding sealing the fuz and sanding back the sealer, the smoothness of the balsa isjust like a babies bottom (dad of 3) and the smell takes me back even further t when dope was de rigeur!! Still mithering about the covering though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 mine finished the build--now doing the covering-will post a pic before maiden flight day-watch this space....................... ken anderson.................................................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Whta you covering it with, Ken? Better get my finger out and finish mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 hello john--white film on the wing and white solarspan on the fuz-c/w dark blue film and trim-i'll try and put a pic on later today let you see-so far ken anderson..........................up here in the north east end of the large flying field call the uk............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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