Peter Wood Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 JimGreat to hear from another Pioneer fan. I wish I had thought of some of your mods earlier especially the hidden elevator linkage - it would have been quite easy to have exited the linkage through the tail cone. Too late now but I would appreciate more info on your mods to the wing joiner and cabin roof. Like you I am not keen on rubber bands and want to be able to disassemble the wings for transport. Also I am not confident at this stage that the rubber bands will pull the wing squarely against cabin because of the inevitable outward push from the struts.Here are a couple of shots of my model to show the current stage of construction. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 PeterSend me an email and i will send you some pics. of the wing fixings.[email protected]Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 QuoteHi Jim,I think I get your point! Remember that song: Like sister and Brother? - BARRY TAYLORWhats this Barry? Care to Explain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Having got to the stage of installing the tail end I decided to make a modification of the Rudder/Steering Horn. It seemed a little tricky to install the Pushrod Z bend so consequently the Cam shaped horn now can be attached after fitting it all together. I am guessing that chris glued it to the 5mm dowel but I wasn't keen on this permanent installation just in case any adjustments needed to be made. The bottom end of the dowel having been sized in my spinning drill is glued into a externally threaded sleeve and the horn fits onto this and secured with a nut. This I think, makes installation somewhat eaisier.The Bush and nut were modified from a Panel Mounted Electronic Potentiometer.I have included photo's to show the detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Reid Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Hi Peter and Garry,Good to see you tidying up the loose ends of my design, and I like the pictures. For Peter, the rubber band isn't to hold the wing on just to locate it. You are right that the struts tend to push the wing out, but the flight loads act to push it back on so it works. I developed the method for a DH60 Moth where the top and bottom wing halves go on together on carbon rods with bands - works fine. I can't remember if I sent you a couple of glazing photos. Let me have your email address if I didn't and I'll send them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Chris Please could you send the Glazing photo's on to myself also. Garry[email protected]thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Wood Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 ChrisI am sure you are correct about the flight loads pushing the wing back onto the root rib. However I have a slight gap on one side (probably a building error) which I want to eliminate hence my interest in Jim's approach.Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Can anybody shed light on which way around the Taper of the Flap goes? The Drawing shows it at the Slot side, but does it go towards the Tail end as one would think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 Having been Influenced by Jims Modification to the wing mounting I decided to adopt a similar method. The wings are attached with 5mm Cap head screws which are accessable through the removeable roof that is held with small magnets. A picture says a thousand words, so here's the detail with one wing attached and the renaining one shows the Bolt screwed in. I may change the screws to alluminium ones later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 Roof attached Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Hello Fellow Pioneer Builders. My Aircraft is almost ready now and I am now looking for a Pilot for the Cockpit. The one chris Read used looks perfect but I am unable to find anything like it. All the ones I have seen are the Typical Bust types. I did see Captain Jack Harkness an action Figure From Doctor Who thats looks perfect for size and may be suitable with some modification? Any body have any other Idea's.garry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il-Pe Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Hello Boys,My is waiting for paint. Finaly I'm finish from builiding pioneer. I have some photos, just send me a e-mail on [email protected] and I send you my photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Reid Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 The original pilot for my Pioneer was the head and hands from a cheap, 6" high, action man type figure from Poundland (2 for a £). The body/flying suit etc were made from domestic tissue on a bent wire matrix, with pva glue to hold it all together. My man has the blue flying suit/yellow mae west of UK fliers of the period. The guys who usually flew the aircraft in the Gulf or Far East, usually wore just khaki shorts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il-Pe Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Hi all.I need some info about the rivets of the panels,Dose any one know about the rivets on the body, They are flash or not?. I'm crazy about scale models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glbiggles Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Garry, the photos mentioned on the first two pages of this thread are not being shown. Photobucket either gives message page not found or photo contains errors and cannot be displayed.Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Thanks Steve I will get them Sorted outgarry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Guys I screwed up when fitting the wing slats, but have only attached one so far.The Slat, as I understand it, is tapered downward to allow a lesser angle of attack than the wing leading edge at takeoff. however when mine was fitted, it is at a more or less similar angle to the LE. Please see the clickable photo link.This seems to have given a slotted type wing instead, and I am now wondering wether or not to attempt repositioning it. Problem is that it may cause damage in doing so. Now I am wondering if I should just install the other the same way and see what happens!Anybody have any Ideas on how the flying characteristics will be affected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Looks Brill Garry, nice one. David. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Thanks David, and for having the Plan in the Mag. I would hope that Chris Read gets a heap of well deserved recognition for his Design. As Jim states he has certainly made a terrific contribution to RC in designing this model.I owe a great deal to Peter, the owner of this thread he has helped me in many ways on and off this forum. Thanks especially for the Decals, you made a fantastic Job.Hope to see your finished Pioneer on here soon Peter.Regarding the Slat screw up. think that I will try them in the Position that they are for now and see how it goes.Regards Garry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Wood Posted April 29, 2007 Author Share Posted April 29, 2007 Garry is being too modest! He has helped me enormously with suggestions about the cowl, the rudder horn, wing fixing, cabin roof and most recently a superbly engineered sprung suspension. Sometimes just having a second opinion helps to crystalise your thinking about the solution to a problem.I don't want to turn this thread into a mutual admiration society but I guess much credit must go, as Garry suggests, to David Ashby and RCME for creating Modelflying.co.uk and for publishing Chris Read's characterful and stimulating plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 I have developed a sprung Oleo leg for the Pioneer that others may wish to use. The only drawback to this is that the leg at the top attachment Point protrudes from the Fuselage more than a fixed one would do, and consequently the Oleo covers will need to be made deeper. Also it will be worth stiffening the attachment point from behind.Below is a list of Materials and Tools required.The Alluminium Tubing & 6mm Solid Alluminiun Round Bar are available at B&Q in 1 metre lengths, as is the 10mm Square Bar and cost around 2.50 each.Materials1. 10mm Outside Diameter x 1mm wall Alluminium Tubing2. 8mm Outside Diameter x 1mm wall Alluminium Tubing3. 6mm Outside Diameter Solid Alluminium Bar4. 10mm x 10mm Solid Square Alluminium Bar5. 2mm soft wire ( Pushrod off cut) 6. 50mm Long springs to Fit. (I found these in my Junk Box, but should be available fairly easily online)NB. Ensure they will take the Initial Weight of the Pioneer without too much compression. Each of my springs topped out at 5kg on the weighing scales when fully compressed.ToolsHacksawFiles, inc Needle files for finishing the slots2mm Drill bit2.5mm Drill Bit2.9mm Drill Bit (Tapping Drill)M3.5mm Tap8mm Drill Bit10mm Drill BitPillar Drill for Sanding / Polishing the Tubes to the correct diameterVarious grades of Emery Cloth / Alluminium Oxide for Polishing Tubes downI originally made my drawings to Scale in Microsoft Word but the Photo images here are not. Anybody wanting the originals can email for a copy. Also be aware that the lower leg Balsa cover has a dimension error; the 9mm Dimension should be 8mm. Also the stated 2.5mm hole in the Top hinge should be 2mm.After cutting the tubes to length the first step is to insert the 6mm long x 8mm Diameter tube spring stop inside the top section (This should require minimum sanding to allow a tight tap fit) then Pin it by carefully drilling through the outer tube just enough to enter the stop. Then Tap the 2mm wire in to hold the stop in place, it should be a tight fit, and then file flush on the outside. Now is the time to sand the 6mm OD bar down to 5.5mm, making a good loose fit in the 8mm Tube. Remember to leave the 10mm long section unsanded. Finally sanding this down as well but to a good tap fit in the lower leg section. We will now secure it into the 8mm tube bottom section with another 2mm pin, although the 2mm Drill hole can go straight through followed by a slight countersink either side to make a rivet type affair. Again file flush to the Outside. Drill the 2.9mm Hole in the end of the now 5.5mm bar & Tap m3.5, taking care to get it centralized. We can now cut and file out the slots in the top & bottom of the upper and lower sections, finally drill the 2mm hinge pin holes again taking care that they are centralized through the cross section.Due to size restrictions this is continued in the next Thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Take the Balsa covers and drill the holes longitudinally straight through the sections, I made mine oversize and dimensioned them around the holes accordingly after drilling. Glue them in place with epoxy but remembering to make a left and right hand version in relation to the profiles which are them sanded to shape. Note that on the top section, the Balsa cover will be covering the slot and drill hole for now.Now wrap the tin plate around the upper section of the leg and Solder along the overlapped seam. Ensure that the bottom leg section fits into the free space with room around it, and then glue in place. Apply the Paper wraps and then remove this and the Balsa from the top section where the Slot is. Note that this only needs to be on the inside where the upper hinge fits, again making them left and right handed. Take the 2mm drill bit and extend the holes through the Paper and Balsa for the pin.Make the Hinges as per Drawing by simply sawing out and filing, followed by drilling the Holes. Fit the lower hinge by tapping in the 2mm pin and mushrooming it either side to secure.Temporarily fit the top hinge and where the attachment screw fits, ensure that it can be accessed with a screwdriver, you may have to file away the top outside of the leg with a round file to enable this. Also note that at this stage you may wish to make the Oleo cover and drill a hole in the end to allow access to the appropriate length fixing screw to allow removal for servicing.Take the springs and make a dry run of assembly ensuring that everything moves freely.Finally stripping back down and Painting. On the final assembly apply some Vaseline to the spring and shaft for lubrication.The top hinge can be secured with a suitably sized straight pin to allow free movement as it will be kept in place by the Oleo cover.I have posted Photos. For one reason or another the Photo’s have to have their own thread, sorry for this.Any questions please feel free to contact me here or at [email protected]Garry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Hallam Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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