MooSey Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Whats the accepted way of securing the cockpit plastic on a glider for repeated access to battery?The glider im restoring had the bubble permanently glued on which was daft as it meant no access for battery location.I was planning on hinging one side with tape but don't know how the otherside is secured for constant access? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Darnley Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 could you extend a ply tongue down inside the fuse and use a short bolt through the fuse side into the tongue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Darnley Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 In fact, better than that, try getting hold of some rare earth magnets a-la the extreme flight electric models. the ones on my edge hold the canopy hard through some aerobatics the snipe would cry at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchweight Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 I bought a small cube of neodynium (spelling?) super magnets for about £10 on eBay. Fot that I got loads (30+) of these tiny super magnets which are superb for canopies and hatches. The hatches on my depron hawk are held on with two, and they never let me down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ruut Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 You can also get away with clear hinge tape,it is light and simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooSey Posted July 10, 2007 Author Share Posted July 10, 2007 thinking of hinge/sticky profilm for hinge side and maybe some pins on t'other to hook bubble through.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger T Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 Mike,I used a small roundhead screw at the leading and trailing edges of the cockpit aperture with matching notched in the plastic canopy. To fit, just flex the edges out and the length of the canopy shortens enough to spring into place under the screwheads. Removal is the reverse, perhaps needing a flat lever (6" rule, Swann Morten handle, flat screwdriver blade, etc) under one edge to flex it enough to get a finger under it.This will only work with a frameless canopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooSey Posted July 22, 2007 Author Share Posted July 22, 2007 thats a good idea. it's going to be one of the last jobs but these things stay in the back of my head taking up computing power! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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