Hamish

If you have 20C it means your 1800mA battery will give 36Amps which should be OK for your motor. 40C would mean 72Amps.  For safety reasons the Tx should always be switched on first, irrespective of your wing fitting.

Like IC Bill the first thing you switch on is the Tx and not as it would appear the Rx. Ensure the throttle is at zero. You should hear a number of beeps as the ESC goes through its initiating procedure. You should now be able to run motor with fingers well clear. You really need a Watt meter to determine what power is being used in order you do not burnout/destroy motor, ESC and battery  Edited By Hamish on 14/04/2011 18:11:28

Thanks for the info Ken. I may give the Blizzard a try later on. What has put me off the Blizzard is I have assumed it is made of the same material as the Radian and It very quickly looses its appearance as the slightest twig leaves an indentation and as the wing brackets broke I used tape to hold them in place which again removes the surface finish.  I am pleased with how the Radian performs and now doubt the Blizzard will be the same, but I like a model to have a good appearance.

In my other models I take the motors out now and again to give the bearings a good oil, so epoxy to the wiring would not be an option. I use a gaffer type tape to hold the wires in place and can normally get it way up to the front of the motor keeping the wires clear. Have used a number of props from GC, HK and at one time treated model to expensive unit, which although well made, did not justify the cost.  I have an eHawk and hope that the Pretty will be as nimble and able to do manoeuvres I can't do with the eHawk, although that may well be down to my lack of experience and ability. Roll on weekend and weather permitting I should maiden.

Thanks Simon. Hopefully tomorrow will be collecting Pretty from LMS. Will pay attention to motor and I have others available if I need to change.

You are correct Pat, I have not been comparing properly although I was influenced by them both being foam. I probably am looking for a model with the same flight characteristics of the Blizzard but no foam.

Thanks Pat. I have a Radian and it is how you say. It has the same appearance as the Blizzard and I wondered if the motor in the Blizzard resulted in the increased performance but it would appear there is more to it. I am looking for a bit more aerobatic but preferred the looks of the Pretty(horrible name) to the foam of the Radian and Blizzard.  Any suggestions?

Considered purchasing a Pretty, more for its appearance, however looking at posting on this forum it did not compare well, performance wise, with the Blizzard. I now ask how the Blizzard compares with the Radian Pro?

Use insulating tape along join.

Its very simple BEB. I need to take out a subscription to view certain aspects of this site, so it is pay to view. I was influenced not renew my subscription when this had been previously discussed.  The subscription price and buying at shop is a totally different matter. I have found that with some issues, if I had picked the mag up in the newsagent, I would not have purchased the mag, whereas with a subscription I do not have that option, so whilst overall it is cheaper, it is not, as you may be buying something I may not particularly want.  I appreciate publishers cannot cater for all tastes but at least I now have the option to pick and choose which as I have alluded to will make my annual spend less.   

Well I did subscribe to the mag and it has just lapsed so I am unable to view the subscriber only content. I understood this was to be a free forum and the subscriber only content therefore makes it a pay for view which is why I will not now renew my subscription.

The solder connection is far better electrically. I am sure if you ask your technicians to show you how to solder and tell them what it is for they will be interested. Its all a matter of practice and with soldering you can experiment and then redo if not happy.

Thanks for info. I suppose it will depend on the current taken by the motor as to the size of the switch in the motor cables, not the battery cables. I am a great believer in KISS and adding electronic components????

Not reliable? You are using the same switch to operate electronic components! How not reliable?

Would a double pole switch breaking two motor feeds do the same?

Purchased a Ehawk and have been delighted how it has been flying. This afternoon I put her up I then found I was having poor elevator control and thought I had lost it a one time so decided to land. As she passed by I noticed the boom was at rather an odd angle which accounted for the partial loss of control. Put it on the bench and found the pod spigot that the boom attaches to had broken clean off. Inspection showed it to be extremely thin. Compared size with a previous model and it appears the wall thickness should be about 0.70mm when the spigot was in fact measuring 0.33mm in thickness in bits. Contacted Thunder Tiger importers in UK and since they have had no complaints they will take a note and that is the end of the matter.  Posting this to determine if any others have had this problem.

Thanks Chris and probably simpler but everybody has there own preferences. My point in posting was to make David aware that other adjustments may need to be made and its not just a plug in buddy lead and fly.

Thanks Chris. I found it easier to set up individually as it is not just trims but rates, equipotential, wing type etc however this was with the DX6i. You are also flying the model and therefore get the feel.

David, what I found with Spektrum buddy lead system is that both controllers need to be trimmed separately and then linked by buddy lead, which is a bit of a nuisance as you have to bind and then rebind. I previously had Futaba and the system could be programmed such that the trainer took the master settings or the other way round however it had been programmed. Any others find this?  No doubt your trainers will guide you accordingly

I do not have the experience but 14,300 revs. Is that the rev range for a normal prop? In addition to the ESC being able to take more amps, are your batteries capable of providing the additional current?

What you appear to fail to understand neil is that if you quote to a regulation you have to be specific as to what that regulation says. It does not say a kitchen is a special location and that is the end of the matter. My references about being naked were to try and let you understand part of the logic behind special locations. Whatever Part P requires administratively has nothing to do with complying with the regulations.

Neil, you are not normally naked in the kitchen taking a shower!  You did say " a special location ie, kitchen, bathroom or outside," which is incorrect in respect of the regulations which you were referring to at the time. Are you now saying that Part "P" has additional "regulations" that are not part of the 17th Edition Regulations?

Well Neil, then a kitchen it is not a Special Location as defined in the Regs.. The more relevant tie up for special locations is where there is water and you are more likely to be vulnerable to shock ie naked and you would not normally shower in the kitchen sink.  As you have explained sockets can be provided for specific purposes provided the relevant precautions are taken

Interesting Neil. Has there been an amendment to the regulations to include kitchens as a "special location"?  With reference to a freezer socket outlet, no RCD protection is required, provided the outlet is specifically marked for that purpose????

"The only disadvantage I can see with the new system is that you are no longer able to have your deep freezers on a non RCD circuit" Not sure if that is totally correct. As far as I understand it RCDs are used throughout to overcome the requirements to provide physical protection to cables and its an easy fix. Cables within the fabric of a building can be enclosed with earthed steel conduit as a means of overcoming these requirements and no RCD would be needed.