Roderic Craig

why does no one mention flux? Flux it and the solder just flows

Thanks again guys p91 coming up thanks Eck. I have a chain saw and use it all the time. I never get complacent about it,I never rush and I'll adopt the same attitude with this engine . Best Wishes Rod

Hi Ken, Thats very kind. Thank you. . I was just really looking for something to do as the weather has not really been any good for sloping for weeks now. Can anybody confirm the actual issue that the article was in? I can then at least get it all set up on a test bed. Rod.

Thanks guys, As a retired GP i have seen the spectacular damage an engine can do!!! Thought the OS H-MAX might raise some enthusiasm. Will read the article again and then make a decision as to.. "Give it a whirl or go to Phil's Models in North Shields but its 50 miles away, but so is the nearest major hospital come to that! Nothing like living in the sticks. Many thanks for your prompt help and advice Rod Craig

I read an article in my collection of RCMEs showing you how to how to set up and start and run an IC engine but can't find it . I usually fly electric but was given an OS MAX-H 40 and a half built old trainer that was in someones garage which I thought I might have a bash at. Ive got the fuel ,tubing, starter kit and a chicken stick. Can anyone tell me which issue it was in? Must be last 2 years I think. Have searched index to no avail. Best Wishes Rod Craig

Thanks Guys ;All very helpful. Best Wishes Roderic

could anyone recoomend an easily programmable 2.4 transmitter for using on a 4 servo wing. I have a FutabaT6EX which will allow flaps and elevator mixing but I'd like to move up to a 4servo wing with progressive crow breaking controlled on the throttle stick.There are so many transmitters out there! I currently fly a middle phase,moth and easy glider but aspire to a 4 servo glass machine.

Thanks guys. I sorted the problem by using an old micro servo and soldered a couple of bits of copper strip into the circuit , one on the servo arm and the other onto the top of the servo casing making a very satisfactory on/off switch!! works well!! I am using a seperate battery for the lights . I like the Turnigy switch Gonzo suggested. Many Thanks, Roderic.

May2011issue describes a circuit forto operate retracts . I thought I would use this same circuit to operate my landing lights ie substitute the landing lights instead of the retract servo. I have done that but find that the lights won't switch off. When I use the main on/off switches ,I can switch the lights on and off whilest still maintaing power to the main servos. I have tried using both the gear and flaps chanels on my Futaba6EX transmitter to no avail.I have removed the positive as shown and have both circuits swithed ON but still no joy. Any ideas Rod Craig

Hi Guys again,just to say that Ive found the article "Once more unto the breach" May11 Very clear diagram and explanation. Well done Pete Lowe and Graham Page 59. Thats the worst of keeping RCME scattered around !! BestWishes Roderic.

Thank you very much guys excellent work! Roderic

I saw an article in one of my 2year collection of RCME explaining how you could set up an independent battery supply for electric retracts etc .There was a nice diagram and involved cutting the centre wire of one of the leads from the reciever. Try as I might I have been unable to locate the article again. Anybody help?

Thank you very much you guys, this Forum is just an seemingly endless mine of help and information, mch appreciated , regards Roderic.

I have Picassa on my computer and wonder how I get my JPEGs into  My Photos?  Yours, Roderic Craig

Thank you very much for your rapid response and helpful advice. Does drilling a hole wide enough to take an extension lead connector not weaken the wing?  What would happen if I cut a slot in the veneer,buried the lead and then glued or taped it over !  I look forward to your comments, Roderic.

I have read Andy Ellisons article but must confesss to still having difficulty undertanding how the torque rods fit to the single servo and how easy it will be in the field to attach wings and linkages.I am holding the wings with rubber bands. I fitted wing servos and ailerons to my Easy Star  glider which worked very well. If I was going to abandon the torque rod way could someone advise on a suitable servo size please.Would you need a special servo mount chamber too? Has anyone got a diagram of torque rod connections .... always think one diagram is worth a thousand words!!

Thanks guys, and I'll get digesting "electric flight for beginners"asap, and get myself a wattmeter!  Roderic.

Hi Cagey, I have just finish a paint job on Multiplex Gemini Elapor biplane topped off with roundels etc from Pyramid models . They stuck on easy as pie with not a wrinkle! Very impressed with their comprhensive website and service  Best Wishes Roderic.

Hi Cagey, I have just finish a paint job on Multiplex Gemini Elapor biplane topped off with roundels etc from Pyramid models . They stuck on easy as pie with not a wrinkle! Very impressed with their comprhensive website and service  Best Wishes Roderic.

I've just built a Multiplex Gemini with Multiplex C3516-1130 Tuning Motor  with10by5 prop. which pulls30A,max current 48A and 350W. I have a Phoenix 45ampESC. I intended to use a 2200 3S Evolite but got seduced by their Eon X30 advertsinRCME but now I'm anxious as they say it pulls 66amp continuous at 30C. I took it out for its maiden flight today and went really well but never on more than half throttle. Should I have a bigger ESC? I,m relatively new to electric flight.Could you advise and prehaps point me in the direction of any articles that may help my understanding of power train set up etc. I think a wattmeter may be a good idea to see what's really happening ! Best Wishes, Roderic.

Dear Bert, Thanks for your comments.We seem to be talking at cross purposes here! You agree that Cof G forward , into dive, release elevator and dive gets worse so you have to up elevator to maintain level flight path,which is just what the guy in BMFA was saying. But look at page52 of RCME, middle column "with forward CofG, will begin to pull out of dive....as if up elevator had been applied" but surely that contradicts what you have just said. Any rate what is the point of Andy's article? My Easy GliderPRO has the Cof G where mulptiplex say it should be and flight is level.Is the idea that when slope soaring in strong rising air current that by adjusting the Cof G for those conditions that you can keep better control? Id love to hear from you further, Roderic.

I dont follow Andy Ellison's explanation.Surely if the Cof G is forward the plane will continue to dive and if its aft of the correct position it wil pull up! Or  do the Laws of Physics not apply to gliders in a 45 degree dive? If you add weight to the nose it must go down and towards the rear it should pull up! Is Andy Ellison wrong or am I missing some other factor. Certainly the BMFA  article to which he refers seems  the correct one to me!! I await an explanation from some aerodynamacist   Roderic.

Iwas rather surprised to find in the instuctions with the primer that it can soften and distort  the elapor . Anybody got experince of using primer? Would you paint all the surfaces before assembly. Will the primed and painted surface still glue satisfactorily with Zacki? Love to hear from someone whoose done this, Rod Craig

Can anyone recommend  a book or article that explains all about electric power trains , there seems to be a million motors ,esc , batteries etc. How do you work out what does what, what combination for different prop sizes etc , high reving ,low reving etc.  Roderic.

Thank you for your help Ralph.I've found the instruction leaflet for the ESC and see what to do . I must confess to being new to electric flight and hadnt imagined there was such a lot to get ones head round. Its great to be able to get so much help so quickly from the forum, Thank you all again ,  Roderic.