cagey

Love the noisy little beggars. My Alpha's much louder now it's got a cheap impellor in but nobody complains here, up and down in four minutes no big thing. Now a 600 / 700 nitro Trex battering around doing 3D to me can be much more irritating.

Thanks Clive. All fits in with what I'd guessed it to be, except I thought 4 X 90mm fan units for 13 pounds AUW. Must have been a real heart stopper that maiden huh ? So is it still around and flying ? Great job my friend. Wish I could get started on my 1/12 F6 Lightning, but can't get hold of any of that Floormate stuff local and UK suppliers only sell it in packs of 4, 6 or 8 sheets depending on thickness and at nigh on £100 a pop. As I only want one square meter of 60mm looks like I may have to use EPS instead, bummer but maybe covered with a layer of medium weight tissue and a light spray of acrylic it'll pass muster eh ? Thanks again, regards Cagey.

Thanks to you fellas, I've got a good idea how to do some serious damage to the Floormate when I get it. Never used Gorilla and always thought it to be a form of UHU, Evosticky type of adhesive but'll give it a go. Busy scaling up my draft plans to give me a 29" span with 38.5" length for 1:12 th of the big beast, so it isn't going to equal your VC10 Clive, now that's a real work of art buddy, most impressive. How did the flying go may I ask ? Be interested to know a bit more about the development and final weights etc. Much obliged everyone , Cagey.

Sanding sealer is meant to do just that, seal bare balsa. Once you've tissued an open airframe any further applications of sealer will slacken the tissue enough to make you rip it off and start over. The only option is further coats of shrinking dope at 50 /50 and hope it doesn't slacken too much. I used banana oil on tissued models years ago. It would seal the open pores quite well, but at a weight penalty. Maybe a trawl through the net for tissue covering and finishing techniques might help,

Hi Erfolg, PVA ? Hard to sand that stuff, how about alephatic fast grab resin ? Doesn't take overlong to dry and can be worked easier than PVA. I've used epoxy and as you say, heavy, not so easily worked either without taking out the foam each side of the joint. WVP is better , good. What's WVP ? Don't think I've heard of that.

Clive, that's the bunny my friend. Ain't going to be a VC10 though as my workshop is the kitchen or living room if allowed by HM. Grateful thanks for the info. Can you advise on the best adhesives and finishing products for Floormate ?

Probably bulk order at 50 cents a pop, Hah ! Neat looking machine though isn't it.

This is an ever present problem with these types of prop drivers. The solution if you're capable enough and have the tools, is to file a couple of flats on the rear of the driver which clamps onto the conical inner collet and hold this with a spanner thin enough to go behind the spinner whilst tightening the nut onto the driver at the front of the prop. I must agree with BEB though, the Dynam 1200 mm Spit is enough of a handful for experienced fliers as it is and nigh on impossible for a beginner, sorry Adam, not what you want to hear but it's a recipe for disaster my friend if this is your first machine. You really must get in touch with the nearest club, get insured and have a serious think about an easier A/C to learn with.

Cheers Clive. Any idea of what the stuff is called, the've got an incredible amount of various types etc. It's a mine field in their site. Be obliged for a clue here buddy. Edited By cagey on 03/12/2012 17:34:32

Yep, that UK site can be problematical, but overall the site generally is quite intuitive. Instant video ? Turn off or down sound, simples. My moan is they're showing the Durafly Sea Vixen £90 + (ish) as in stock, BUT not in the UK, P&P from HK at mega squids and no word of when it'll be here yet. I ordered one anyway and don't know what went wrong but ended up with a payment due of £604.97p. Whoops ! Cancelled immediately and after a prolonged email caper was told I'd ordered 3 of them. I don't think so . Going from USD to GBP seems to confuse it somewhat. Give it time, it'll get there in the end. Edited By cagey on 03/12/2012 17:23:56 Edited By cagey on 03/12/2012 17:25:01

Had similar on my FMS Mustang. Yes, you are right, the up, down lock load is taken by the cam, not the screw jack. Nevertheless the screw jack on one of mine sheared clean as a whistle during taxying after the gentlest floater of a landing too. Since then they've been nothing but trouble. I could write a book about the things. Hang ups, no ups or downs, juddering, buzzing, bits falling off, one going up as the others going down, nasty little pieces of rubbish. Phew, end of rant now. Buy cheap buy twice ! Edited By cagey on 03/12/2012 17:02:08 Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 03/12/2012 17:04:23

Anything scale, power, size, type and era immaterial, simple as dat.

Serendipity ? Hah my bum ! I got given a much used and abused mostly Align Trex 450 a while ago which became my learning hack. My 100% perfect 450 safely hung up till I could tell which way was up down etc. Since then I can now hover and fly around a bit, but at what cost ? Hundreds of squids is what ! Constant repairing dumb thumbing had me bulk buying gears, shafts,blades, you name it I broke it ! Got me hooked enough to buy a 550 plus all the extras, got no money left now and no hair either, HaH ! If only I'd said "No thanks" I could have bought several nice ARTFs and kits to play with. Ain't no such thing as a free lunch BBC. Buy her an extra special pressie for Xmas and you'll be back in the brownie point league. Edited By cagey on 03/12/2012 16:46:40 Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 03/12/2012 17:49:22

Thanks for that riverlandgirl and Chuck. Very interesting info there folks and maybe helpful later, but at the moment I'm aiming at using EPP or EPO for their bounceability, my Art Tech EDF has bounced all over the patch many times and survived with the aid of epoxy and cyano to just keeping on, tho' it looks like road kill now LOL. It's made from EPO,nice, not like my (EX) Squall, made from polystyrene which just explodes into confetti with a ground interface. Big problem is supply here, the nearest I got was a mininmum of ten blocks blue or pink 50gltr at £126 a bunch, too dense, needs to be around 30 gltr to be workable, no bending Chuck, all done with a bread knife Hah ! I've redrawn the wings to be built up now , at only 29" span with 1/16 ribs and 1/32 sheeting shouldn't be that much heavier than foam skinned with glass. You've sliced a few bits of EXP there riverlandgirl, don't it drive you bananas all them little bits sticking every where. Cheers peeps, Ken. Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 03/12/2012 17:17:31

On all types and materials of props I use Halfords car aerosol spray cans of acrylics in the near as possible colour for the whole prop and for the tips. I also use the same stuff for balancing , you'd be pleasantly surprised how an extra coat or so will even out a poorly balanced blade.