Lee Smalley

I like to be different so calmato for me and if it flies as well as the none alpha version then it will be brilliant, have something that looks different on the patch to the masses of wot4s or travel airs, I get bored of seeing same old stuff

And then fail your a or b cert with that kind of take off ...well done!!

als hobbies as well as others will have them

any by dubro if you can find them

you do need full up in my spit initially but as speed builds up you relax the elevator until you are just about t take off, by this time i have barely any up left held in, so the take off is as per scale, as this forum is about models not full size !! you do not dab full rudder in during the take off run (certainly not with my spit) the full size has oodles more torque and probably needs that much rudder to stop her swinging, the video is even more of an exaggeration as she is a MK14 or upwards and either has a griffon engine or later Merlin with even more torque and power. if you do not hold in full up on the initial take off run she just noses over, personally i don't teach anyone to dab anything smooth progressive inputs is where i like to fly, but thats just my way

Yeah taking off in a full sized spitfire is exactly the same as a model!!! Please feel free to do exactly that with a model spitfire, just not mine, you would zig zag across the strip and probably rip the retracts out.

i see so many half decent fliers that can't taxi, its like they have never practiced it, they just line up on the strip full power and haul it off, take wings off and just tell them to drive it around like a car for 10 mins then put wings on and tell them to do the same, then when happy tell them to do multiple take off and landings smoothly you should get used to using the rudder constantly and smoothly, you should not dab at the rudder ...try doing that with a spitfire with a scale u/c and see what happens!!

Quite a lot of the problem is that manufacturers are now only really offering foamies for review, I suspect the amount of proper models being given to the mag has declined dramatically this is driven by us the customers, so can't really have a pop at the mag for that, but I too prefer IC reviews, shame but if rubbish foam is where the market is.... That's what people are gonna make and advertise

I have not really noticed any difference between ring and clip on ferrites with clip ons you do not have to loop them through as much, once or twice is usually sufficient, Martyn is correct you need to keep them apart as much as possible in case there is any noise from the extension leads being picked up by the aerial however again this with modern components is rare, RF testing is a black and not always a scientific art sometimes weird stuff works, try wrapping the extension leads in tin foil or carbon tape, you would be amazed at the stuff we have tried to stop our products being susceptible, we shortened 1 track on a PCB by a few mm once and hey presto, problem cured

I have tried interrupting Andy many times maybe a garish full colour spread offering trinkets is the only way !!

on 35 meg it is unlikely that the aerial is coupling onto anything as it is not actually transmitting anything it is probably having its signal "stolen" by the rf transmitted signal coupling onto the servos extensions, it is easy to check, remove extension leads and check range, if all is good until you re-install the servo extensions then try ferrite rings half way along the extension leads (loop them through 3 times) it may work it may not, rf testing is a bit of a black art im afraid

Yes possible it can also be harmonics of the main RF signal as well coupling onto the wire thankfully its quite rare,

As I do RF testing at work let me try to clarify a few things as simply as I can, 2.4 gig is quite immune from general RF noise, as it is quite a distance away from most RF noise we come across however there are issues long leads can lead to RF noise coupling onto the wire and effecting the servo, the receiver is still functioning perfectly but the servo is still being effected, this is very rare but can happen on 35 as well as 2.4, range reduction will probably be the transmitted signal coupling onto the servo wires as well as the intended Ariel thereby reducing transmitted signal strength again it is very rare and you may find length Ing the wires may make disappear or trail and error even worse, in this case as it is signal strength that is being effected 2.4 gig should make it go away

After giving bob a bit of stick for the jet column a few issues ago can I say well done and much better for an informative column, there are so many items out there unique to jets lets have them explained and reviewed if loss, thanks to shane for his thoughts on my mate Colin, we are all gutted and I am so gonna miss all the stick he gave me...gutted

highlights 1. flight of my 2 year long build DB spitfire 2. greenacres bashes 3. flying my jet whilst one of the lads blasted out the theme tune to TOP GUN from his car...awesome Downers 1. losing my mate Colin Nolan as you have all read about ....sort of takes the shine off everything

i did see these on line and was really tempted as the price was great, but quite glad i did not bother now

what about 120/150 two stroke like the ST cheap and reliable ?

What four stroke is it mate, asp would not do it OS might !

i had a ST2000 in mine and it was good, just about able to pull out of the hover, 120 fourstroke would i fear be found a little wanting, and yep as i said near the start, it is a YAK 54 and it is designed to be flicky, the fact she is so well behaved is a credit to seagull, but it really does make me dismay when i see people pulling like hell on the elevator even at speed and then being surprised she flick rolls on them...doh......... great model, loved a flew mine for 3 years, and treated her disgracefully, never once let me down.....brilliant

Sorry dude I have had two of these lost the first to a mid air after 12 months and immediately bought another, I hammered them both full power inverted flat spins, blenders, etc and never once even looked like letting go, in fact I don't think any seagull kit has ever let me down mechanically and I have had dozens, I would always buy them

Balance should be on the wing tube or just in front

no as you can appreciate after spending so long doing my spit i wanted to use a two pack fuel proofer that i knew would not attack the paint job i had just done, so after discussions with Phil from fighteraces (top bloke) i used the klasskote system and it is very very good

Posted by Percy Verance on 09/10/2014 14:02:39: The smell on the drive home was basically the reason I sold my petrol engines. Oh, and there was the noise issue too. I tried Aspen synthetic petrol, which did eradicate the smell, but at twice the cost of unleaded it negates the point of using a petrol engine in the first place. Plus it made not a jot of difference to the noise level........ There is no way I could ever have got away with a petrol engine on our current site(s), as one has a small caravan park within 300 metres of our strip, and the other is four strokes and electric only......... Edited By Percy Verance on 09/10/2014 14:05:27 i have a LE 30 cc petrol in my capiche 140 it is quieter than almost any 4 stroke in my club, a ban on any type of power plant is stupid, set a noise limit not a ban, anyone ever heard a funjet ultra??

the only time i had any signs of lifting are when i was too keen in the sanding of the primer and left it like glass, and even then the lifting was very minimal and more my fault than anything to do with the paint, your final sand before spraying should not be with a very fine grade of paper as all paint needs a key. insignia over existing paint was even easier, i love the fact you can do the majority of your spraying with water and when happy and ready just two coats with a two pack matt or satin and she is done, sooooo much nicer and easier to clean

ok cool one to put in my diary for next year