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Steve Fish

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  1. Posted by Chuck Plains on 27/05/2013 07:03:54: As an absolute beginner, I've started with a Bixler 2. 1+ BUT- buddy up with someone in your local club. It may look easy in competent hands, but still is tricky when learning (that's why we do it isn't it? If it was easy we wouldn't bother!) If competent, this sort of design (I have an MPX Easystar on high kv in runner and 3S lipo) is highly versatile. It can be aerobatic, you can aerotow it using a Velcro attachment, slope it, thermal it, hell I have even used it as a float plane and as an FPV platform. Steve
  2. ++++++ WARNING: Very dry message follows ++++++ All reasons, except for structural failure (which arguably may be a builder error) and "other" are pilot errors. It is the pilot who is responsible for the engine tuning or even engine choice, in the case of the legendary MDS40, the pilot who elects to fly in adverse weather conditions, the pilot who has incorrectly set the CoG, the pilot who flies with undercharged batteries, the pilot who incorrectly wires the aileron controls (eg black to signal on an extension) or flies his model on the wrong transmitter model memory, or insufficiently checks that controls a full and free In The Right Sense. RF failure is rare and when often thought to be a glitch it is in fact local turbulence, equally unseen. These, I think, are things the pilot can be forgiven for. Spekky radios can often be incorrectly boud, if for example you switch either Rx or Tx off and then switch it back on again, it will often inadequately rebind, displaying flashing led's. Is that pilot error, or "other"? Switch both off, then switch both black on and binding will be complete. Some may say the above is harsh, but the model does not elect to put itself together and fly itself. One chap in our club recently performed a range check with a Turnigy 9X and took off with it in range check mode. Result, piledriven into the ground. I wonder if he'd call that pilot error? Problems like this and the ones above often occur because of banter and conversation during the setting up phase of the model. You know, you've just arrived at the patch, can't wait to fly and start talking to your mates. This is sufficient distraction to prevent necessary checks. Without a "sterile" set up and preparation phase, accidents will happen. So, overwhelmingly, most crashes are pilot error IMHO. +++++++ All Clear - Dry boring bit over +++++++
  3. I suspect, like all electric motors, servos will demand a certain power determined by the load. Power is the product of current and voltage: watts. if the voltage is lower for a given load, I would expect the current draw will be higher than a situation where the reverse is the case. Perhaps this is why the lower voltage pack drains quicker than the higher voltage LiFe pack. Neither pack is providing any more power than the other for the same load. Techies on the subject may enlighten us further.
  4. Posted by Eck on 08/06/2012 11:05:48: Budget is severely limited, but that applies to everything, not just modelling. Mrs Eck accompanies me to the field when she isn't working, takes some wonderful photos and helps out at Club Open Days. Lucky Me! Mr Eck, my wife is much the same - in fact without her help at our club's recent fly-in, we'd not have muffins, pumpkin soup, and invaluable help serving teas, coffes and the bacon butties i was busily cooking up. What's more she takes great photos too! I know a chap on the other hand, who had to ask permission to go fly. One afternoon he went flying without the wife knowing. 2-3 seconds (7 seconds + = a flight?!) and he yawed into the fence. As he had not sought permission, he had to hide his misdemeanor for 2-3 weeks until he had a moment to fly legitimately. Thus he could then lay claim to the crash! Of course, all us club members knew about it,  but were sworn to secrecy lest divorce papers were served. For the greater good... tish tish!   Edited By Steve Fish on 24/06/2012 12:31:38 Edited By Steve Fish on 24/06/2012 12:44:46
  5. I have had a soft spot for the Beaver for some time. I fly a Thunder Tiger Beaver on floats and although it is plastic it is indeed fantastic off water. I have been thinking of building this kit and I'd be interested in knowing if Ben has proceeded any further with it? The Beaver on the Airsail box cover refers to one purchased by the RNZAF and which flew to support the Commonweath Antarctic Epedition of 1957-58. Interestingly it was registered twice: once as NZ6001 and later as NZ6010: it was discovered that the RNZAF's sole Gloster Meteor had already been allocated NZ6001. It went back to Antarctica for the 1959 - 1960 summer season but crashed on Beardmore Glacier during whiteout conditions and was written off. The occupants spent some days at the crash site before being rescued. The aircraft remains in Antarctica. There is one that used to be an Ag aircraft, on display at Wigram, Christchurch, New Zealand, painted in the colours of NZ6010. A good scale subject for Kiwis to refer to.
  6. Good review in the mag last month - but came across this video from TVNZ3. it was used to explore inside one of the cathedrals in Christchurch that no engineer has deemed safe enough to step foot inside. My thoughts are with those that have suffered in the on-going quakes in Christchurch - most recently a 6.3 the Monday before last.  http://www.3news.co.nz/Flying-drone-gives-inside-scoop-on-cathedral-damage/tabid/309/articleID/215242/Default.aspx Edited By Steve Fish on 28/06/2011 11:28:53
  7. Well done for rescuing the thread BB.Happy building!DUplicated - please delete!!!! Edited By Steve Fish on 06/06/2011 08:47:46
  8. Well done for rescuing the thread BB.Happy building!
  9. Posted by Basildon Biggles on 26/05/2011 13:47:51: Good review Steve,I now factor in the price of a pack of Epoxy, Cyano & Fibreglassing.  Thanks for that BB (BTW I used to live in Billericay before my flying days).Interested to know if you dabble with larger models and if so what you use the fibreglassing for. I have been flying for around 10 years but this Edge is my first "gasser" and first >10cc engined plane. I bought an HK 4" aluminium spinner for the Edge. I wrote a review of it for HK as the backplate broke round the prop driver and the subsequent vibration shook the model's engine box to bits, fortunately identified after a successful landing. It is again repaired and reinforced! I have learned a lot with this model, from spark-ignition, high torque servos, battery supply and Rx choice, ARTF reinforcement and trailer-box building for transporting it (I'm very proud of my trailer box).
  10. Posted by Steve Fish on 14/07/2010 13:23:14: Re: ARC/Thunder Tiger Cessna/Beaver: The recommended engine is a .46 TT pro. Has anyone had trouble flying this plane and floats with this engine off water?    Here's a link to a pleasurable afternoon's float-flying in New Zealand. Co-starring my TT Beaver on a GMS.47 11x7 with OS powerbox muffler. Select the highest resolution, full screen and sit back and relax. Edited By Steve Fish on 26/05/2011 12:58:58
  11. One of the few RC shops in NZ was trading on the NZ equivalent of ebay. They advertised the 88" (2.2m) Edge 540T by Vantex as a $1 reserve. I bought it for $320 - normally $799. The auction price attracted me - would not have bought it otherwise.It is an ARTF and precovered in black and red iron-on plastic. All hardware is included except for spinner and pilot and the hardware itself looked to be good in quality. It arrived in a huge box but was poorly packed. 2 minor fractures - one to a horizontal stab fixing point and a crack in the rim round the cowl made of grp (which is the size of a bucket). This has 4 clips that slot into the firewall and it is secured by 2 screws from the fuz side, over the tank bay. The fuselage is made mostly from 3mm or less ply, and balsa longerons with a foam turtle deck. Wood parts are largely laser cut and slotted together. Closer inspection reveals poor tolerances on the interlocking parts with very little glue apparent. However all seemed to be held together ok, out of the box. The canopy and tank bay cover is one piece giving great access to the capacious fuz. 3mm ply tabs protruding from the front of the canopy that interlocked into the firewall. Vertically arranged tabs slot into the interior of the fuz aft of the canopy and are held in place by 3mm screws from the outside just above the trailing the wing.  The wings are held to the fuz over an aluminium tube and by one bolt and 2 incidence pins of wood dowel per wing. The bolt is a 4mm cap screw retains a washer which in my opinion is too small. I replaced these with a penny washer.  It was a very simple job to put together with little reference to the brief instructions. I chose bluebird MG 616digital servos all round and decided on an AR 9110 power and 3 receiver system, all using 2 2-cell LiFePO4 packs.  Engine is a DLE55 currently with standard exhaust (which I may upgrade). 22x8" carbon prop from HK.  After the first engine run, it became clear that the aforementioned slot-together fuz was struggling to cope with vibration. Several parts were frankly loose requiring re-gluing so I decided to re-glue as many joins I could reach! This included the now loose cardboard tube in the fuz that secures the aluminium wing-joiner tube.  By the second tank I noticed the cowl was rubbing on the spinner. Close inspection revealed the plastic clips holding on the cowl had broken. I fashioned some more, and simply pressed out the old ones(!). I also put a T-nut at the bottom of the firewall to accept a bolt through the cowl framework as extra security. On the next flight the canopy came off: the tabs on the front of the canopy were simply too short and released in flight ripping the securing bolt through the fuz sides. So again I pressed out the old tabs and replaced them with longer ones which I glued in securely, along with the rest of the canopy framework.  The 3rd tankful saw smooth, excellent flight characteristics - until the right wheel fell off.  No, the collet did not loosen. No, the nyloc nut holding on the axle did not shift: the stub-axle fell out of the bolt in flight! (pic below comparing the axles.) It seems it had a fear of heights and decided it was better to jump without a parachute than to wait for a perfect landing... the wheel was recovered but not the stub-axle.    Despite as sweet landing as could have been made, the right U/C leg dragged on the grass and the moment of force ripped the mounting in the fuz. Was I miffed!!! The right wingtip dropped to the gound and the aircraft arced round, prop still turning, without prop-strike or engine bay damage. New Axles coming - from Dubro...  I have taken out the carnage below the tank bay and repaired the damage. As soon as the axles arrive I'm good to go again.  SO - Apparent value for money, let down by poor build quality, fit of parts and lack of glue! Advice - re-glue ALL joints and consider reinforcing the fuz round the tank bay. Consider removing the tank bay floor and reinforcing the U/C mounting points. Consider replacing the axles with ones of known make.  On the bright side, as a first petrol-engined aerobatic aircraft, its CofG is good with the ignition battery in the trad pace - behind the engine - and it flies beautifully and is probably the easiest plane to fly land I have ever flown. As a first big gasser it totally dwarfs .5Cu In planes and makes mincemeat of the taxi to the airstrip. It's as if it's already halfway there! It tracks wonderfully in the air and with a great low reliable ignition idle, the loops are of constant radius and speed both in the up and the down line.  For a cheap airframe as a first "gasser" it's ok, but needs inspection and reinforcement in places. Modify as above.  Would I part with $799 for one? Probably not. If I were to buy a 50cc size model again I would seriously consider saving up for better quality.
  12. Steve Fish

  13. Posted by Martin McIntosh on 05/04/2011 20:39:31: Hi, does anyone know how to contact this heliaddict guy because I am after two twin units and he will not respond. The previous links do not work. Do you know of an alternative other than the SM services one which is rather bulky and I witnessed one drain the battery to nothing after two flights last week.   Martin Hello Martin, Sorry, I do not know why the links do not work but I cannot edit them to make them work. I have however copied the address into a new browser tab and it comes up.try it. http://library.heliaddict.co.uk/gsp/gsp_v3.5_manual.pdf It seems it will automatically download to your browser's download folder. Then if it has, open it with adobe reader. If you PM me your email address I will email you a copy of the manual. Reply to this message when you have PM'd me. Once you understand how the device works, it is really quite straight forward to programme.Additionally, the ebay link above is still active for heliaddict.  Best wishesSteve
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