Iain Jeffrey

A DLE 35cc sounds much more sensible, more managable power for the airframe. DLE's are normally quite light in weight anyway which will help with performance. The Evolution 40cc I use has side exhaust with wrap-around pitts type silencer. If I remember correctly, a rear exhaust may point straight at the engine mounting box and I don't think that there is much room for a can type silencer, which you would need for this configuration.

Yes also, fully agree with Ultymate, I have the same Seagull model powered by an evolution 40cc, loads of power from this size engine, the airframe is quite light for it's size!

Hi John, I've just completed 2 cowl's and 2 pairs of spats using an automotive base colour coat, finished off with a clear gloss 'KlassKote' top coat. This is a two part epoxy paint which will give a glass like finish and is totally fuel proof without the nasties of 2K top coat paint, it should be fine over acrylic paint (test first). Available from Phil Clark at Fighteraces. Iain

Hi Dave, Yeah, vinyl decals/stickers are perfectly fine on model aircraft, I design and make my own as work has the machinery to cut vinyl. I have done a test on printed vinyl which i found glow fuel and petrol do effect the printed image to the point of removing it when rubbed, but solid colour self adhesive vinyl is fine. If you fly electric fuel residue will not be a problem. Apply with water and a small amount of washing up liquid, as removing them to reposition can damage the film covering and lift it off the airframe. Iain

Count me in please!

Count me in also please. Thanks

Yes please.

Hi Dave   Just hard mount it to the bulkhead, I run a Zenoah 23cc in a 70" Super Star, just use the mounting back plate with stand off spacers to get the correct prop drive washer distance.   Iain

Just make sure the tank vent pipe is looped above the tank, doesn't matter where, it's just so the petrol doesn't syphon it's self back out of the tank at rest.   Iain

Hi David   Just goes to show it was worth entering.   My details are listed in my account.   Thanks again.   Iain.

If I'm lucky the P51 Mustang would be a nice prize.   Thank You.

I switched to running petrol last year and never looked back, much cheaper and lasts much longer, as a petrol engine uses less fuel than glow, up to 2/3rds less I believe, to a equal size glow engine, cleaner too.   Cheers

Use baby wet wipes (cheap ones will do) to rub down the model after flying and dry off with kitchen towel, Fairy power spray works very well on baked castor on an I.C. engine, just follow insructions on the bottle, soak for a while and use a toothbrush to remove castor residue. May take a couple of goes but it works.   Iain.

Hi Peter   I also bought the Capiche 140 kit after reading the same article, last year (Christmas present). I 've only managed to fly it once, which ended with a heavy landing, partly due to the exhaust working its self lose and no experience with the model, just wanted the model down quick!!!. Anyway I had the cog set at 185mm from the leading edge as it balanced at that point with no added weight. First impressions were that needed to go futher forward to get used to the model, at leased at 180mm if not a little further forward. I would recommed quite a bit of expo on the elevator as its really powerful as I kept lifting the nose too high on landing, hence the heavy arrival. I would recommend the carbon U/C from CarbonCopy as a replacement to the supplied aluminium one, the CCU18 SIZE one is the same size as the kit type, they do offer a Capiche u/c which I think is CCU14 but is much smaller then the aluminium one.   Cheers   Iain

I agree, top service from Glen's. He managed to supply me with used a replacement cylinder for my Zenoah 23cc engine, didn't want to spend too much as it was an old engine. I now have a fully seviceable engine once again.   Iain.