John McGuinness

Hi All,Thanks for all the tips will most certainly try most if not all. Below are some responses if i haven't responded to yours  its not that I don't agree its just lack of typing time. Fishing and flying and building and earning a living don't leave a lot of time for typing. 1. May have to try upright approach though with great reluctance. Yep engine ran out side model for the recommended OS running in process, about two tanks of 250cc each very rich to start then leaner. 2. Yep fuel line is on clunk and is the right length ie just short of the bottom of the tank.3. OK I will remove and run on test stand both inverted a upright. Would be difficult to to change tank for a different shape as room is restricted but I am more than willing to change for  a very similar one.4. Good idea I have not checked the carb O ring.5.Tried different fuel older Endurance 10% nitro from same supplier. Changed plug for OS four stroke and then back again no difference. 6. From Steve this seems the best / most logical  can you suggest a lower oil content fuel that is easily available by mail order and I will defiantly invest. 7. Running on the recommended  13 x 6, does a smaller prop aide ideling? but as always I will give it a try.  Thanks all watch this space but not for about 8 days work calsl very loudly. Regards  John

Hi BB,Thanks for reply. Engine is cowled in large "cooking pot" style aluminium cowl, have a look at any Flair Puppeteer as a picture paints 1000 words. Room for the air in and out is, I would judge adequate and the engine don't seem to run excessively  hot. The plug is the one supplied by OS. The engine was run on the bench, not inverted for 3 times 250cc tanks worth of fuel as per OS running in instructions ie mostly very rich and all seemed sweetness and light, or should I say noise. Another snippet of information from a late afternoon run of yesterday was that the engine seemed to lean out and stop whilst running on 3/4 ish  throttle, well it stopped  may be not leaning out. The tank was at least half full and when the starter was applied it restarted and ran on. A fourth or is it fifth check of the plumbing showed all to be well. Reassembled but did not try another run yesterday and unlikly to do so today. This thing as got me well and truly on the back foot may be I will try an electric conversion no idling problems with a brushless out runner. Only joking I just love the oil and smoke not to mention the cut and bruised fingers. Regards John

I have an OS 56 Alpha four stroke mounted inverted in a Flair Puppeteer. It will not idle reliably. Fuel is  Model Technics High Shield Supaglow 10% nitro.I have on board glow fitted and set up to energise the plug automaticly  under about half throttle. Symptoms vary some times just stopping s, some times stopping when the throttle is opened. I have tried adjusting the slow mixture screw on the carb exactly as per the OS instructions up and down the total range at least 10 times. I have trriped down and renewed the plumbing twice and spent at least 5 hours flicking the beast all to no avail. The fuel tank is slightly higher that the recommender height from OS and is pressurised via the exhaust. The only other observations are that the exhaust seems very smoky at full chap but if I lean out the main jet The engine cuts, also the engine is supplied with a trumpet device fitted to the carb intake and in my installation this is very close to the fire wall.  I am just about at my wits end as I have been playing with the the thing on and off  for over 1 month and  I am unwilling to attempt the maiden flight with a an engine that will not idle and then come back to life on demand.  It will prove a lot of work to un invert and the position of the silencer will then be problematic so if any one considers that to be the answer please refrain for advising me to do it.  I have run both two and four strokes inverted in the past and never had this degree of difficulty in running them and getting them to idle. HELP

Hi All,I am surprised that I find no posts on the ST MX2 and problems with ESC ignition.A reliable source close to Ripmax inform me that they have approaching a 50% failure rate. I am unfortunate and got one of the bad 50%. The problem is that the ESC decides to ignite whilst the motor is running with as you can imagine bad consequences, fire and melt down being the least. My model survived the experience with minor damage and major scorching, more by luck than good judgement. Also the motor exhibits weird symptoms in that it becomes very stiff without getting very hot. All dealers should by now be aware of the problems so ask the questions and shop with care. On the positive side the model few well and "Did what it said on the tin" until the unfortunate happening. Also the retailer is providing new defective parts I think!!! BEWARE the ST MX2 you have been warned   Regards  John

Hi  All,Long story I will try and shorten. I have a Futaba T10CG and a USB to square interface lead. The Transmitter plus the interface Trade name Lira will not calibrate with the games port, PCM input of my PC. PC high spec running Windows 7. I am informed that T10CG outputs 3.5 v at the buddy box square socket. Most PCM USB interfaces require 5v. Do you know wher I can buy an interface that will work with my Futaba T10CG. Real flight and its interface a little on the expensive side at £165 ish.  Happy landings  John

Hi  All,I have a problem connecting my brand new T10 CG via a USB cable to my Windows 7 high speck PC. The problem is when I connect the Transmitter using a Lira USB to Futaba square buddy box connector it will not calibrate using the Windows PCM calibration Wizard. Another transmitter and its interface works fine. I have contacted  Futaba USA, what a shower of idiots they were of no help what so ever. Futaba UK (Ripmax) very helpful but sorry no cigar. It seems that Futaba reduced the voltage out of the buddy connection from 5 to 3.5 volts just prior to releasing their 2.4 GHz sets. The older USB interfaces require 5 volts from the transmitter. Now the question does anyone know of a source of PCM USB interfaces for Futaba T10CG Transmitters that will work. I am told that the transmitter supplied with  Real Flight has a buddy box extension that will work with the T10 CG but I am unwilling to pay £160 or so when I have two perfectly adequate simulators that work with an old dummy transmitter.  Some one else must have the same problem and who knows even a solution.

Hi All,I have a problem with ClearView or to be more precise with a PPM USB interface twixt USB and Futaba T10CG 2.4 GHz Transmitter. Prob is that the tranny will not calibrate in fact it wont do anything sim wise that it should. The pc , a Windows 7 high spec machine recognises the PPM and loads the PnP drivers without error or complaint. Then the fun, or should I say lack of it starts. I go to control panel to calibrate select the only PPM device installed towit the one I plugged  in. It will not calibrate in fact it appears that it is not installed. However I do not get any error messages . I have changed lots of settings in the Transmitter in fact every setting that could possibly effect the trainer output plug. I have contacted ClearView the Sim people and Futaba, ClearView give me senseless advice and so far Futaba do not answer as yet. One small and maybe irrelevant piece of information is that when the PnP drivers are loaded the Game controller info panel shows the Interface as PPM followed by an arrow pointing to the right. My problem could be the interface lead but I am loath to buy another until I can eliminate most or all other causes of this problem. Any suggestions even wrong ones gratefully accepted.  Regards and Happy Landings