Colin Anderson

Thanks Steve, I enjoyed that! Excellent work!

Thanks Steve, I've just downloaded an viewed the images that you sent me, so I can see how you fitted your engine and the mods you made to the bulkheads. If I'm not mistaken you tank appears to be as far back as I'm proposing to site mine ( with the rear close to the servo tray) - am I right? Also, the filler, vent and fuel pipes all appear to exit at the underside of the model - so these pipes don't need to be upright then? Your undercarriage is a work of art! How I wish that I had the skills and the equipment to achieve such a neat piece of engineering. That's some set up you have. I noticed numerous improvements that you made to your model and all beautifully executed - and yes, I saw the stitching too. I also noticed the cat (yours?) performing guard duty! I'm still non wiser as to whether you got my email, but regardless I thank you for the images that you sent; they are excellent , very helpful and have given me much food for thought.

Thanks Steve, I guess I'll move the tank back then, as that will be the easier and neater solution. The only drawback as far as I can see is that the filler and vent pipes will have to come up through the upper decking, rather than the engine bay. Fitting my engine inverted would have been a neater solution, but as the bulkheads and lower sheeting are already in place it's a little late without major surgery - so, upright it'll be and I'll live with the removal of the front sheeting. Regarding the pushrods for the throttle; I can quite easily see how difficult this will be. I'm thinking that it might have been wiser to put the holes in before assembly! Nevermind, I'll work it out. I'll try to put some pictures up at some point or perhaps I could send them to you. Did you get the email I sent you? Concerning a previous post regarding joining a club: I tied contacting my local club (Slough) which can only be contacted via their forum, so I registered. I got an email back to say this would have to be confirmed and then they'd send me a further email. So far this hasn't happened, so I guess I'll have to wait for a sunny day and go to their flying site and talk to them. I did have a look at Maidenhead, which looked impressive, but at over £100 to join I can't really justify it at present.

Hi Ernie, Thanks for replying, but first, my name isn't Simon! Chamfering the bearers, as you say, will be quite straightforward. I understand your point about the sharp corners, so as not to introduce stress points. My thought is that rather than resort to buturery at the front end I'd prefer to move the tank back; this will necessitate adding a partial bulkhead behind the present one in order to support the tank neck. It will mean making 2 holes in the upper decking as well for the and vent pipes. Now a couple of questions: if the fill pipe is blocked of during flight, does it have to be upright? Also, if the vent pipe is connected to the silencer, does this need to be upright? If the answer is no then I can bring tubing from these through the bulkhead, rather than up through the upper decking. Regarding the fuel tank: I figure I've got some leaway, as the bigger engine is heavier than the smallest engine for this model. How far could I get away with moving the tank back? By passing the fuel tubing through the left side of the bulkhead, rather than using the original centre hole I guess I could manage the centimetre, but it will be quite a fiddle. If I move it back about an inch it will be far easier. If I can get away with most or all of the above it will save me chopping great chunks out of the front end! As it is, most of the front decking will have to be cut away at the top to allow the engine in, access to the needle valve and access to the engine bolts. - because the engine hasn't been run in yet. I'll also have to provide some relief at the front bulkhead for the throttle linkage, because at the extent of its travel it just touches!

Wouldn't it be great if things were easy! Today I decided to trial fit my Ervine 40 so that I could work out where to bring the push rod through and where it would sit to allow the fuel pipes through, prior to fitting the top cowl sheet. The first problem is that the engine doesn't physically fit between the bearers! This will only require some minor fettling of the inside top edges of the bearers to allow the crankcase to fit in and not enough to compromise their strength. However, with the engine moved forward to the front bulkhead there isn't sufficient room for the fuel pipes and tank cap to come through! This means that as the tank has to go in before the engine ( because its under the sheeting) I then won't be able to slide the engine in! There appear to be 3 possible solutions to the problem: buy and fit the smallest allowable engine for this model; cut the front bulkhead and probably part of the nosepiece too; or make an additional bulkhead and move the tank back. I'm quite reluctant to start buturiing the front end as I'm worried about reducing strength, but my feeling is that this might be the only way forward. As this model was designed to take glow engines up to the size I have I would have thought that suffient space would have been provided. I guess I was nieve!

The build is now back on track. I cut hinge slots into the new elevators and made a much better job of it. As before I used the guide that comes with the Dobro tool to align the centres. To get around the problem of the cutter not going in perpendicularly I placed the tool flat on the bench, packed the elevator up to the correct height and worked the tool in. It worked! The slots were dead perpendicular and much neater. I got the idea from David Boddington's book. I used a very sharp nail to make the holes for the toque rod; this was much more successful than using a drill and straighter too. Next I filed down the ends of the torque rod a little to make them slightly slimmer - this will leave slightly more material around the rod within the elevator, without compromising its strength. The elevators now work properly, as does the rudder.

Hi BEB, Got the notification for your post after I'd already posted in reply to Stevo! The Cub I'm building is by Flair and is sold as a trainer; I bought it following advice from Sussex Model Centre (local shops don't seem interested in selling kits!). Your advice on buying a second model (RTF?) I'd agree is very good advice indeed. However, as I only had funds for one plane I wanted to go the kit route. If I tried to buy a second plane at this point I'd probably end up divorced! I have build models in the past (a long time ago). I used to build free flight and control line. Back in those days radio control was just a dream and out of reach. Working for the NHS (37 years) put paid to my modelling. Having taken early retirement last year I'm now determined to get back to it. I fully intend, when the model is built, to join my local club (Slough); I've been to see them fly many times. I wouldn't attempt to fly alone, as I have no wish to take home a box of firewood! Apart from that I don't know anywhere around my area where it could be done. Back when I flew control line in the early 70's you used to be able to fly most anywhere, but things have changed. I thank you for you advice; I will find it of great help. I'm glad that you guys are out there and so freely willing to offer help and advice - it's heartwarming. Cheers guys!

Hi again Stevo, I am going to be using two servos in the wing for the ailerons, but I haven't got that far yet. Yesterday I was attempting to do the elevators and rudder - basically making a pigs ear of the job! The rudder seems ok; it's free both ways, although it only flops to one side under its own weight in one direction - so it's more free in one direction than the other. It was the elevators that gave me grief, especially with the torque rod. In the end I made such a mess of the job I decided to make two new elevators; I'll try and cut the slots today. You're right about the gouge; I came to the same conclusion eventually, but a little to late! I'd tried to make the hole for the torque rod using a drill bit fitted into a handle; it just chews up the balsa. Regarding the hinges: the gauge only really seems to help align the tool centrally, it doesn't help keep the tool perpendicular! I'm going to try to solve this by adapting the technique shown in David Boddington's building and flying radio control aircraft. To be honest I wished I'd thought to cut the tailplane/elevator, fin/rudder slots before fitting them to the fusalarge; it seems to me that this would have been easier! In addition I should have marked out the slot positions on all parts before slotting, instead of marking the second set from the fitted hinges in the first set. Hind sight is a wonderful thing! Oh well, it's all learning. Regarding the American slotting tool: looks like a good idea for a future investment; this or something similar. I don't use EBay, because I'm one of those Luddites that doesn't trust it! I know that millions use it the world over and they're fine, but still.....

Spent a fruitless afternoon trying to cut hinge slots for the elevators and rudder. I managed to cut all the slots in the tailplane and the rudder post without too much difficulty; cutting the slots into the rudder also went ok - although the rudder moves far easier in one direction than the other. Cutting the hinges for the elevators also went well - the problems occurred when I attempted to fit the toque rod. I just couldn't seem to get the holes right for the toque rod go into and finally ended up splitting the wood! These holes are awfully close to the ends. I tried cutting the damaged area out and splicing in new wood, but this was not too successful; I managed the holes, but when I assembled the elevators (a real fiddle, trying to line up the three hinges and the toque rod) they didn't line up! Damn! Obviously one of the holes was off line! Eventually I got it all together and lined up, but I'm not that happy with it, as I think it might be weak. As I had some spare wood of the right size I've made two new elevators. Tomorrow I'll have another try. And I thought that using a hinge slotting tool would make things so much easier! Probably it does, in the right hands!

Ah, so your the one behind the first anhedral Cub! An idea that never quite took off? I remember that post; thanks Ernie

By the way, Steve, that's one nice engine! Wish I could afford one! I'm fitting an Ervine 40 glow.

Thanks Ernie, Me thinks that inboard flaps might be a tad ambitious for my first R/C model! I've never flown R/C before and I've just passed 60! As the ailerons are pretty much full length on this kit it would also mean shortening them. Steve, Thanks for images of the wing servo fitting; excellent imaging, it'll be really useful. I'm interested in all aspects of the build and fitting (for the above Stated reasons), so any images you might have and are willing to post I'd be most grateful. I've made a few minor mods to mine so far: Parts 2a that join the fusalarge halves together were missing from the laser cutting so I cut my own. It wasn't obvious whether or not they should be placed across the join or spliced in, so I spliced them. Subsequently I decided this might still be a weak point so I added some lite ply joiners over the top - belt and braces! I didn't like the plastic nose so I carved my own and hollowed it out, but have not yet fitted it I've added Flair's steerable tail wheel. Substituted the Myler strip for proper hinges. Fitted the undercarriage fairings between the two wires rather than on top as I think it's neater. For added strength I laced them at 6 points as well as apoxy. I'll be adding two servos to the wing, as well as the fusalarge/underwing supports.

Simon, can we see the rest of the build? Please. The Flair Piper Cub will be my first build in over 30 years and my first R/C model. I've enjoyed your posts so far and your excellent photo's - you are obviously one fine builder! I've learnt a lot already. I've gleaned many good tips from your post so far, but I'd love to see the radio and servo installation - particularly the wing servos.

I have two LMS near to me. To be honest I doubt very much if I'd want to use either! One I went to showed a complete lack of interest and bordered on being down right rude; the other was only really interested in selling me ARTF. Years ago I used to build and fly control line, free flight rubber and gliders. My interest in modelling is not therefore solely in flying, but also in the building of models. Having been away from modelling for well over 30 years and not having ever flown radio control I was looking for friendly and helpful advice. I got neither. The most friendly, knowledgable and helpful people that catered for my requirements were My Hobby Store and Sussex Models; both of which I was able to deal with via old fashioned technowlegy - the phone. They both offered me useful and impartial advice taking into account that I actually wished to build my own model. I actually drove down to visit Sussex Models and purchased further from them; shame they are so far away because they are really helpful, friendly and enthusiastic - LMS take note.

Thanks for your comments, guys. They are much appreciated.   Colin. 

Thanks Ken. We're not related, are we? Just kidding!  building and flying radio controlled model aircraft or radio controlled model aircraft? I see that Waterstones have both listed on their site (among others), but they are not in their shop; so I can't get a look inside them.

   Thanks for the link    Ultymate. It was very interesting. Bit far for me to go though!

I've been out of modeling for a long time and many things have changed! I used to fly rubber, gliders and my favourite was C/L. R/C was out of my pocket!   If I were to buy just one book on R/C, which would be the best or most comprehensive? I'm looking for something that describes building techniques, choice of engine and equiptment, as well as flying and rules etc.