Colin Anderson

Surely it makes sense to just build the aileron wing and inhibit them on the TX when you want to fly on just rudder and elevator. To be honest, though, I'd agree with Nigel; flying is so much nicer with ailerons. 😊

The wing is the same span an same cord, with less dihedral. The ribs are semi elliptical so, if you've already built the fuselage you'll need to modify the wing seating. It uses two servos to drive strip ailerons; the servos are set inboard, just outside of the fuselage. Hope this helps.

I'm a little confused here. In this thread it's stated that there is 1/2 (12.7 mm) dihedral under each wingtip of the aileron wing, which would be 1 inch (25.4 mm) total. However, in the magazine article it states 20 mm (0.8 inches) at the wingtips or 40 mm (1.57 inches) total. Which is correct?

Thanks Alistair. 'Course I'm feeling pretty daft now! It is indeed on the inside of the Cruiser plan; it wasn't possible to ascertain this in the shop. It would have been pretty embarrassing if I'd rung them! 😂 Cheers, Colin.

I've had the plan for this model for some time and have been waiting for the aileron wing plan to appear. I've just picked up the latest issue of RCM&E in which said plan was to appear. Well, the article is in the magazine, but the wing plan isn't! I checked every copy in Smiths and Tesco's and it isn't in any of them. This is very disappointing after waiting so long. As I've managed to destroy my Wot 4 and the power train is similar I was really looking forward to building this plane. 😕

Hi Monty, I believe Jim originally recommended PPPO-3548-1100 from 4Max with the PP-TESC60A esq. 4Max recommends PO-3748-900. Apparently, the original recommendation is no longer available and if you want its equivalent, it'll be PO-3748-1000.

Hi Glyn, It made sense to me to cover the ailerons before fitting, so that's what I did. I glued the aileron horn plate in position prior to covering. Push some short lengths of cocktail stick or similar into the screw holes, with the points facing out. That way you can push the points through the covering as you apply it and be able to find the screw holes afterwards! I put the hinges into the ailerons after I'd covered them. It's not too difficult to find the slots by feeling for them through the covering, which you then slit, in order to insert them.

Glyn, It's 1/4 inch, but it isn't square. It's more like 1/4 x 5/8 if I remember correctly.

Tom, It's the new Wot4 that I bought. If the U/C mounting has been improved you could have fooled me! I've come across the modification of the U/C that you mention, but it does seem a bit drastic. I too have a love hate relationship with foam, coming as I do from an era when we associated anything made of plastic as cheap and nasty - and definitely in the toy category. Dave, Personally I don't hold with ARTFs either, although I wished I could built that accurately and neatly. If people like them and it brings them into the hobby, then who am I to complain. However, I do feel it brings in an element of chequebook mentality to the hobby. I guess it kind of depends on whether you just enjoy flying or whether you are an aeromodeller.

So what mods would you suggest fir the Wot4 U/C, that won't destroy the fuselage in a hard landing?

Not only that, Earnie, but some people must have large disposable incomes, if this is how they think! I've recently bought a Wot4 (reluctantly) to learn with. I consider over £100 a lot for a piece of mass produced foam, but at my present stage I guess it's cheaper than breaking my own built models. The first day I flew it I was most disappointed to find it virtually unflyable until our club instructor trimmed it for me and the U/C tore out on only its second landing. My own models, although still needing trimming, were at least flyable from the start. In addition, it was only necessary to replace the saddle clamps if my landings were less than perfect; whereas on the Wot4 it takes a chunk of the fuselage when the U/C gets thumped. Sure, once trimmed they're great to fly, but they are also horrible to look at. I don't get that sense of pride I have with my own models. And, as a beginner I find them very difficult in gusty conditions. I lost all control of my Wot4 last week in 15 knot winds (forecast said 9 knots) and nearly lost the model completely.

I have recently bought a Wot4 to practice on, 'cause I keep damaging my own built planes (I'm still learning). I've got to admit, I'm not a fan of foam, but I do see their merits. However, these planes are not perfect. My Wot4 was horribly out of trim, making it practically unflyable; a problem I've not had with my home built models (which require trim, but at least are flyable). I tore the U/C from my Wot4 on only its second landing - hard, but not that hard. This seems to be a weak point of the Wot4 and quite disappointing. My own planes take hard landings in their stride, but on the few occasions when the U/C really takes a beating, the saddle clamps simply break; unlike the Wot4, where the U/C takes a chunk of fuselage with it! 😕 I much prefer balsa models, built from plans or kits. Flying is fun (no matter what the plane is made of or who built it), but to me, the hobby is aero modelling and that means building your own plane. If we are to keep this hobby alive and keep our model shops thriving, we need to get building! 😊

Hopefully you'll now be able to see my new wing (above) that I mentioned in a post above (where the image doesn't show. I've added the glass tape since this image was taken. All I have to do is cover the wing now. As mentioned above. The ailerons and wing tips are salvaged from the crashed wing. I've also reduced the dihedral.

I've just seen that the image I posted in my previous post doesn't show (at least not on an iPad). Sorry about that guys.

New (second wing) completed. All that remains is to add the glass fibre reinforcement and cover. Wing tips are salvaged from the first (crashed) wing, as are the ailerons. Note reduced dihedral.

Hi Glyn, Yes, I covered my slotted servo plates without the servos in place. As the plates are quite thin it's just possible to get the pointed end into the slot and secure the edges; that's what I did. When it came to covering the wing I did so without the servo plates in situ, in order to the covering around the edges of the hole. Once the servo plate is screwed back in place this provides this provides a nice neat solution.

Your welcome, Glyn. I've had lots of help on here. I'm only too glad that I can help someone else in a small way. Best of luck with your wing. Mine's nearly completed. I think I've made a better job of this one than the first one! Practice makes perfect! I've made this one with slightly less dihedral; it took me ages to work out the dihedral braces and the root rib angle! 😊

Hi Glyn, It's good that you've only built the one side! When you do your second side, lay out the lower sheeting and all capping strips, before adding your spars and ribs - you won't need packing. How to remedy the half you've already built: the outboard half of the wing shouldn't be a problem. You'll just need a capping strip to run along the length of the aileron hinge support; spanning R2, R3, R3, R4 and R2. I would think that, if you're very careful, you could probably cut the five ribs (the two inboard ribs have sheeting beneath them?) out of their slots in the trailing edge, fit the cap strips and reglue. That's how I'd do it. We all make mistakes. I'm in the process of making a new wing, following a crash. Yesterday, when I came to fit the leading edges I found that I'd cut them to the same length as the trailing edges! As they say, measure thrice, cut once! 😊

Hi Glyn, I've no idea who John is, but never mind. 😊 Okay, cap strips. The top cap strips shouldn't be a problem; I presume you've got a step behind the leading edge sheeting and one at the other end, where the rib meets the trailing edge. However, what about the lower cap strips? Again, I guess you'll have a step behind the lower leading edge sheeting. But, as you've put the ribs in without the cap strips, have you got a step where the underside of the ribs meet the trailing edge? From your image it's clear that you have no cap strips at all. Regarding your images. Usually posted images will upload in the orientation that they are saved in. If you rotate an image within a program and upload it from that program it will still upload in the original format; unless of course you're using a program like Lightroom which can upload directly.

Hi Glyn, Have you put the cap strips on all the ribs, top and bottom? Also, by inboard of the wing, do you mean the root, where the two halves join the centre section? If so, then the sheeting extends back to the trailing edge (top and bottom), covering ribs R1B and R1. Could you post an image of the wing? 😊

As I'm in the process of building a new wing, having crashed my Jocasta, I thought I'd do some checking within this thread. However, having gone through every post on this thread I couldn't find the answer I was seeking. The Jocasta is stated as having a 60" wingspan. However, measuring both the wing physically and the plan show it to actually be 69"! Measuring the two wing halves (from the plan) minus the centre section would still give a span of 65". So, should I make this new wing the same size as the old one (69" or should I make it 65"? Alternatively, should I shorten the the two outer panels so that the wing comes out as 60"? What was/is the wingspan of the original Jocasta? My first wing (at 69" only just fitted in my car. As I'm thinking of making this one flat or at least with reduced dihedral, it will be more difficult to fit it in my car (dihedral making the wing slightly shorter, tip to tip). Edited By Colin Anderson on 01/06/2015 01:23:58

Best of luck with the maiden Hannes. Looks like you've made an excellent job.

You've made a really nice job of that mate. It looks really nice. 😊👍

There is no cure, Glyn! You're doomed! Doomed, doomed, doomed......