Philflyer

I found a KISS item that actually works, doesn't gum up, is neat and cheap. It is basically a housing for your filler tube fitted on any flattish surface, ie the fuselage side. The supplied stopper for the end of the refuel tube fits into this housing and is held with an o-ring. You just pull the stopper from its housing and the fuel tube comes out with it. Pull the stopper off, refuel, put the stopper back in the tube and push it all back into the housing. It even comes with a bit of Tygon tubing - my engines are gassers too. Stan Yeo sells them on his Phoenix Model Products site. **LINK** PS. If you buy one and like me are prone to putting the fuel dot somewhere safe where you can't find it again, tie wrap a small length of fuel tube onto the filling tube from the big fuel container and always put the stopper int it while refuelling. The fuel dot that comes with it is unique with its o-ring. Edited By Philflyer on 25/01/2017 14:19:21

Steve, I don't know you but completely empathise. Have had some bad times in the past but on a high now despite writing off a year long build on it's maiden flight. Hope things improve for you and you have a great year.

John, many thanks for the throws information. As you say, who better for that reply than the designer. I am very much into a drama free first flight so I'll certainly reset the deflections to your measurements. The bright colours have come out even better than I expected. This is the first aircraft I have built that is not covered with a film of some sort. It was far more work, glassing then spraying, but to me it has been worth it. The skies here on the Channel coast here in South Wales can go from a dark lead colour to bright blue and then all over white in an hour so here's hoping the flamboyance will cope with that.

Ready for engine setup. Can anyone tell me what the control surface throws should be? Edited By Philflyer on 21/11/2016 13:38:30

Andy, many thanks for the message and picture. Needs a re-cover? Looks fine to me. Can't wait to get mine finished now but the old "work and family" things keep getting in the way. Radio and ignition are all fitted now. Just the engine to refit and tests to do. Hoping to get in the air before 2017 arrives but the weather has got to improve a lot before I risk it. This is a rare beast and I don't want to take any chances with it. Like you I would love to see this semi-kit done again if the quality of the original could be matched.

Martin, I am so much in agreement about the figure of eight. Getting it just right in a wind is a real challenge. I passed my "A" 13 years ago but still practice the eight al least once every session, at low level like you must do for the "B", and I'm still never perfect. It feels good when you're close though.

Hi Chris. Before you decide, have a look at this thread ARTF Seagull 40 Low wing Trainer. I've had 2 Boomerangs and they are great. However my 2nd one is now just about worn out but I will not buy another high winger. As others have said here the Boomerang will do just about everything including the B schedule, so what's the problem? The main reason is they are a handful in strong crosswinds and here in South Wales that seems to be the norm.. The good thing about a heavier ic engined model is you can fly in just about any wind less than 15 knots and when you get bit more experienced you will want to push the boundaries. Landing well in a good crosswind gives you a great feeling but that all disappears if the wind gets under the wing and upsets it just when you think you are safely down - and it will. Also inverted flying is harder with a high winger with any amount of dihedral. They are naturally unstable when upside down. Have a look at the thread. Everyone says the Seagull 40 is stable and a great flier. I think it could make the next step for you if you feel you have outgrown the Apprentice. Yes the landing speed will be higher but it will be with a Boomerang anyway. The key factor is can you handle your aircraft well in the roll axis. That is the main difference between a stable high winger and a low winger. The high wing with dihedral has built in roll stability. Even so the Seagull 40 also has dihedral so still has some stability. It will not correct itself if you get in trouble and let go of the sticks hoping it will sort itself out, but the Boomerang won't either. None of us on this forum know how well you handle your present airframe so we are all guessing, and a high wing trainer is the safest advice. It may also be a waste of hard earned cash. You are going to make up your own mind no matter what we say here so take look at all the options and let us know how you get on.

John, yes the aileron servos are HiTec slim metal geared so they will be flush with the under surface. Very light too. The tunnels for the leads were simply made by cutting 10mm wide strips in the veneer then forming a slot with a soldering iron. It does a very neat job and seals the edge of the foam channel at the same time. After fitting the leads the channel was filled with lightweight filler, sanded smooth and covered with glasscloth again. Now the finishing is done it's impossible to see where the slots are. The trailing edge and ailerons themselves are 10mm wider than the plan making the chord and the wing area a little bigger. Sort of compensating for the bigger engine. That's what I tell people, but the main reason is that all the wood including the ailerons were e-mail items from Balsa Cabin so I didn't know the exact size. When they arrived I liked the size and stiffness and couldn't be bothered to reduce them! Great service from Balsa Cabin by the way and excellent quality wood.

I've always liked the Vans designs, they look as though they were models first. Top marks for your design, inspect test methods. I doubt that many of our ARTFs are as carefully researched. I was an aircraft tradesman in the RAF too so I recognise the thought process behind your methods - especially the frangible links in the cockpit. We were (quite rightly) paranoid about loose articles jamming controls weren't we? I have just one thought that you might consider. Most models of this size can have a wide variety of propulsion systems fitted and their weight distribution can vary greatly. I see you have thought of including access and support in the rear fuselage for the servos etc, love it. Will there be room for batteries too? I have changed from glow to small petrol engines and they are bigger and heavier than a glow engine of similar power so getting the balance right without adding ballast, which I refuse to do, is a problem. There is also an ignition system to consider. I had to make my own access panels, in the models I have, so I could fit the 2 sets of batteries behind the wing to get the c of g right. Both of these designs, one an ARTF the other a plan, were over-engineered compared to yours so making access panels was a pain but not a big problem.  Access to the rear fuselage is always useful anyway, even if it's only to check the control runs after an incident! Just a thought. Love what you're doing and looking forward to the kit. Edited By Philflyer on 02/11/2016 11:32:03

Yes, I had trouble the first time I tried adding photos. It gets easier now you've done it once. Here's the boyo (that's almost Welsh) with final coats of lacquer, Underside in this picture.

Great to see the flying shot John. I was astounded to see it - from the colors it is the one on the box lid! From 24 years ago? If you are reading this and don't know what I am talking about go back to the beginning of this thread.

Colin, thanks for that. A real compliment after seeing your album. John, I will certainly keep you informed of the progress of the final build and the flights. The colours are the result of many genuine attempts with different colour schemes and also some research. I've discovered that white on the top disappears against most of our (British) skies and a black with contrasting colours works well. The underside always looks black anyway but I do like to fly inverted so that needs a good contrast too. I find a bright red leading edge is great for levelling the wings when landing. I like green and the one I have is Ford Signal Green, the really bright one that was used on the Escort Mexico if you can remember that far back! It's turned out ok I think.

This is the best in flight video this year for me. What a glorious day, and what a beautiful place to fly. I particularly like the shots with the aircraft shadow in. Thanks. I want a go pro now though.

Colouring nearly done. Don't buy cheap masking tape. The paint bleeds under the edge and you end up doing everything twice! The stuff I bought from Halfords for doing curves actually let paint through the parts that had been stretched!! Just a couple of coats of lacquer to do and then fit the radio. Might even get it in the air before Christmas.

Yes I've always had the best service from them. Nearly all spares by return of post. I am still using a J'En silencer I bought from them 3 engines ago. It's now doing a great job on a small petrol 2 stroke. Far better than the the tin can that came with it.

Getting there! Filling flatting, spraying is endless. I keep telling myself it will be worth it. At least the NGH 17cc fits like it was made to go there.