Anthony Pattison 1
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Many thanks for the scans John. I started in RC around 1970 at school and got into electronics to make the radios. Looking to retire from designing electronics for satellites early next year.... Still riding bikes too (1974 and 1985 Moto Guzzi 950s)...
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Thanks for your efforts chaps. The pictures John sent are the thing! Would love to get some scans of the article/plan. Glad to see the modelling bug persists in us oldies and we can still remember some of this old stuff. A great result! Cheers Tony.
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Back in the 1960s RCM&E covered other models apart from aircraft and quite a bit of electronics. I once built an electric model car from a free plan from one issue ( single channel Macgregor). I can't find anything about it on the Web. Anyone know of any archives for this really old stuff? Cheers Tony.
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1979 RCM&E home-build 35MHz RC system
Anthony Pattison 1 replied to Anthony Pattison 1's topic in Gadgets and Electronics
Well I bought a 40MHz Rx crystal and fired up a 40yr old RCM&E Rx with it and it worked fine with the old Graupner Tx. With the old Multiplex Tx it worked but servos very jittery - looking on scope the RF side was all good but the Tx sends 9 channels whilst the Rx decoder counter is only 8 stages so framing gets screwed. Just need to tweak the caps on the front end coils to retune and Robert's your mother's brother... -
1979 RCM&E home-build 35MHz RC system
Anthony Pattison 1 replied to Anthony Pattison 1's topic in Gadgets and Electronics
Full RCM&E articles attached. RCM&E radio system(1).pdf -
1979 RCM&E home-build 35MHz RC system
Anthony Pattison 1 replied to Anthony Pattison 1's topic in Gadgets and Electronics
Glad to see there are other oldies still interested in these old designs. I now have all the original data plus the update article for 35MHz so I'm planning to convert a couple of old RCM&E receivers to 40MHz for some old boats for my grandson - already have a couple of old 40MHz Tx. Much more interesting than just sticking in modern 2.4GHz stuff and being a Yorkshireman I can save a bit o'brass too! 🙂 Many thanks John for the articles. Tony -
1979 RCM&E home-build 35MHz RC system
Anthony Pattison 1 replied to Anthony Pattison 1's topic in Gadgets and Electronics
I had a few of these sets back in the day and they were very good. John has sent me the pdfs of the articles so I can look at tweaking a couple of old receivers to 40MHz for use on an old aerokits crash tender for my grandson... -
I'm looking for a copy of the articles on the RC system which appeared in RCM&E from May79 onwards. I particularly want the circuit diagrams if anyone has copies? Cheers
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I haven't done much building over the last few years and see that Solarfilm is now no longer made. Can anyone advise if there are any materials like airspan and litespan still made for covering small models to look like tissue but with some strength? Cheers Tony
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Thanks for responses guys I'll follow things up to sort out building something over the winter I hope. I think Shaun's model on an old model mag cover was the one that inspired me to look into the Coquette and I did make an OS26 powered one some years ago - flew well at 46" span but I overdid the beefing up and that covered with GlossTex did make it something of a brick! Shaun - are you the guy from Pandas who does the single channel/old radio/2.4GHz blog? I'm from Normanton originally and started flying model planes back in 1970 from Heath Common and I have also done a couple of old transmitters based on Spektrum RF modules and home brewed Arduino code - perhaps it's something in the water there? Cheers Tony
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Hi, I want to build an enlarged version of the Vic Smeed Coquette which was originally a 30 inch free flight model. There are semi-kits available for this but I have seen on t'internet larger versions mentioned - 46" version from Derek Foxwell and a 72" version from Paul Howkins. Does anyone know if there are any plans available for an enlarged Coquette? Regards Tony
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Finally tested the plane with reduced throws and corrected thrustline and it flies as expected. Really this model to my mind has ailerons that are too large - with the current reduced throws any slop in linkages has too much effect and a smaller area with sensible deflections and throw geometries would make more sense to me. Exponential would help but would really be technology correcting poor design - it's not a 3D model and to use big ailerons and big throws it needs more power..... Model now flies well although it really isn't a slow floater and does benefit by flying at a reasonable speed and doing a bit of aerobatics (just like a Wot 4 really). If you want a slow and easy small model then this isn't it... Next job is to replace the rubbish undercarriage with a piano wire jobbie and perhaps increase the power to see what it can do (will need 15 or 20A ESC).... All-in-all not a bad little plane but not that great for Ripmax and, if my example is representative, there could be a lot of them bite-the-dust on early sorties..... Tony
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Whilst awaiting decent weather, when I'm free to fly, I thought I would check motor thrustline as I didn't like the look of it. Right thrust of 'a couple of degrees' looked pretty good to my eyeball but it really seemed that the motor had 'up' thrust... To check, I took some mobile phone pics carefully aligned to see wingtip and fus. When printed at A3 I drew lines on print representing wing chord and motor axis and sure enough I had 2 degrees upthrust which is NOT what I want on a high wing model. Packing motor mount with suitable washers gives me about 2 degrees of downthrust which is more 'standard' so it will be interesting to see how it fares on next test flight - it now looks far more sensible so expect it to be vastly improved.... On the other hand, as SWMBO says - What do I know?
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I have now reduced throws on elevator and ailerons to what I consider to be 'sensible' levels. As I am using a simple DX4 Tx with very basic functions I drilled new holes in horns and servo arms to get reduced throws. I don't have any Tx with expo and have never felt the need to be honest. I will do next tests without u/c and rebalance as needed. Clearly there is no reason why this model will not fly well as it's a very simple plane but to my mind 'out of the box' it's pretty poor and not really what I expected from Ripmax and certainly doesn't do Chris Foss' design justice...
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Well after flying all sorts and sizes of WOT 4 since my first one around 1983 I imagined the Mini Wot4 would be more of the same - generally stable and well mannered but capable of some aerobatics with enough power.... How wrong I was. Two test flights last night were as bad as i can ever remember in 45 years of flying. The model survived but was a nightmare to handle - yes the u/c is utterly useless and a nylon one would be infinitely better! CofG seems pretty good but I will add some nose weight for now, massively reduce throws in order to gain some control and it seems to need lots of downthrust - reaches for the stars with power on and dives with power off. Also suspect I too may have dodgey linkages with false neutrals. All in all very disappointed but hope I can sort the problems before it gets the better of me. If my experience is anything to go by, this model needs a lot of care on test flights and it really isn't one for the inexperienced..... Anyone else tried one yet? Any suggested checks/mods? Tony
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Unfortunately someone moved the Mirus from in front of my bikes.... (sorry for off-topic pic!) Tony
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Hi Manny Bike sounds very interesting, sorry to hear of mishap! - perhaps you could photo the Mirus with a Bobber in the background next time! Good luck with test flights. Tony
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Hi Manny Not sure how scientific the 70% is but I think the kV figure is motor 'no load' speed so 70% gives some sort of efficient loading without bogging it down too much I imagine. Let us know what power figures you get and how early flights go. I hope to get back to models shortly but have just finished rebuilding a new (1963) lathe and have bought a new bike (1975 Trident T160) so need to clear out some stuff from garage before I can begin - better clear a couple of bikes and the old lathe for a start methinks! Good luck. Tony
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Hi Manny I assume you mean you want to stop flying once you have used 80% of the capacity and stop when there is about 1Ah left in the battery? The ESC will stop once the batteries are near to ‘flat’ and voltage drops down to something like 3.9v per cell I would imagine. To stop at “20% left” you really need to do a few test flights of perhaps 4mins doing your normal flying and then look at how much energy is pumped back in by the charger. If you recharge and put 2500mAh back in after 4min flight you then know that 4mins of flight is about 50% of capacity so you should be OK for about 6 1/2mins. Given you have a battery of 5Ah you could ‘hope’ for 50A discharge for about 1/10 Hr (6mins) and that would give you about 50A * 20V = 1000Watts. Hence the full battery capacity would give about a 1kW for 6 mins – you are looking for less power at 870W so that gives more time and you won’t be at full-chat all the time so 5 or 6 min flights should be pretty achievable for 80% discharge I would hope. It would be interesting to see what figures you get from a current meter and rpm meter when running the prop you have. It is said that optimum prop would give (70% of kV*voltage rpm) so for your setup that would give 0.7*740*20 = 10,360 rpm….. The nice thing about electric is you do have scope to adjust power/rpm/flightime by prop changing and battery changing – 1kW is pretty hectic for a Mirus but it will fly well! Do keep us informed as I do need inspiration to tackle the 3 Mirus-es I have! Tony
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Hi Manny I don't think you are over-cooking it if you like very fast. Great thing about electric is you can easily adjust performance to suit what you want. With your setup I think you have bags of performance and by reducing cells or smaller prop you can reduce power if you want a bit less performance and longer duration... Post some pictures of new build? I now have 3 Mirus-us-us-es to sort but 1972 Triumph MOT tomorrow and still trying to sort workshop to take new lathe.... Not sure when planes come back to top of list! Tony
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Hi Manny Well the electric details you give all look very workable to me. The static thrust figures for the weight should be enough (!) and with a horse power (740W) on tap it will be fast that's for sure! From my experience with an OS32 on full chat (about 1hp) you will need a fair bit of downthrust so do make provision to adjust this if you can.... Tony
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Hi Mannyman Mirus looks great, how heavy is it? Do you have a vinyl cutting machine for the PC or is the cutting done on a Pro machine? Tony
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Forgot to say about the ailerons. I don't think the model needs full span ailerons really but I have used them on mine as I find it a bit easier to make the wings like this. In the past I have had problems getting the torque rod system working freely and yet have a positive connection where rod connects into the aileron - alignment of tube with hinge line can be a problem sometimes. Tony
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Hi everyone. Unfortunately I don't have the mid-wing Mirus anymore - sold on ebay when I had to reduce models prior to building a new house. I now have three mirus-es which need a bit of restoration and intend the first one to be a copy of this mid-winger but with electric power. Trouble is finding the time - just bought a 'new' lathe which needs some repairs plus 1972 Trident and 1975 Moto Guzzi both need services and MOTs. One day I'll retire and have some time for playing with the toys! Tony
