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Scruffmeister

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Everything posted by Scruffmeister

  1. Scruffmeister
    I've got one similar to this to charge my Sanyo Eneloop batteries. Each battery is individually monitored and has served me well for years...
  2. Scruffmeister
    So, what's the secret to accurate stick cutting for built up fuselages? I've got my razor blade, sanding block, taking my time and marking carefully but really struggling to get results I'm happy with... Any jigs I can make? Perhaps a miniature disc sander would help get ends square and at right angle?
  3. Scruffmeister
    Thanks all, this is a great starting point!
  4. Scruffmeister
    Hi all, I'm building a free-flight model for the Nats, a Mecury Wizard. The plan calls for a .049cu in engine, but I'd like to go electric. Clearly doesn't need to be overpowered, just a decent climb-cut-glide. Can anyone point me in the right direction of a motor/esc/battery combo? I'll need to figure out how to do a timed run of the motor but sure that has been solved somewhere on Internet! Thanks
  5. Scruffmeister
    Happily I found the thrust washer while getting the kids bikes out today. Test ran the engine in the garden - all good! Thanks all - I'll hold my hand up to some first class muppetry
  6. Scruffmeister
    As foolish as it makes me feel, it looks like the thrust washer is missing! I've ordered a new one from Just Engines... just hoping that no damage has been done to the engine now by tapping the crankshaft with a hammer and generally turning it over a few dozen times while this symptom persisted. Just need to wait for the postman now...
  7. Scruffmeister
    OK, thanks all - let me do some research! Won't hurt to learn...
  8. Scruffmeister
    OK, did some more investigation - with the prop off, I can push the prop shaft back/forward approx 1mm. When pushed right back I scan hear a scraping noise which sounds to be coming from the back of the engine. When pulled forward the noise is gone, but I can't tell how freely it rotates since my fingers can't turn the engine over with only the prop shaft to grip. When the propeller is put back on, no play is noticeable and the issue remains per my original post. I tried a couple of sharp tap with a hammer as suggested but it had no effect, positive or negative! So, how much work are we talking to dismantle and engine like this, get to the bottom of the issue and fix it? Although I've got experience of running glow engines I've never tried to fix one that was in a sorry state. This was meant to be a quick Winter hack for my local field as I don't tend fly glow models normally - with other build issues on the model itself I won't bore you with, it's turning into the project from hell! Edited By Scruffmeister on 16/09/2017 16:53:35
  9. Scruffmeister
    Hi All, I recently acquired a brand new Irvine 53 Mk2 (Japanese version, silver cowl). Ran it in on bench with about 1L of fuel per instructions, got the ABC lining nice and warm for short periods etc. All absolutely flawless. After run in would turn over nicely and freely with a finger and had a nice compression. I put it in a model and tried to start it, it popped and looked to start but I noticed the prop was slipping a little so obviously stopped to tighten the lock nut. Issue was that the prop was locking against the spinner backplate but not the prop hub on the engine allowing the latter to rotate slightly. (I ran it in without a spinner on my bench). So, the issue... I tightened the prop nut until the spinner backplate and prop hub actually locked. This required more torque than I would normally expect but done by only a small 6" spanner so I didn't think excessive. However, now when I go to turn over the engine it is stiff through the entire cycle to the point you can hardly detect it going over TDC. In no way does it feel like it would be safe to start. I've check it without spinner, e.g. just prop on hub + nut and exactly same stiffness so something has changed mechanically in the engine. I've check there was no contact with the cowl inducing friction and I've checked the engine wasn't flooded (it wasn't and did turn over, just suddenly very stiffly). So, I've broken it - but exactly what have I done!? Edited By Scruffmeister on 16/09/2017 15:50:34
  10. Scruffmeister
    Thanks all, advice much appreciated.
  11. Scruffmeister
    Bit of a random one here chaps... I've got a two-stroke engine here that has been in its box for a few years but is brand new, never run. Turns over nicely, no signs of rust etc. I wanted to give it a little oil before running, so picked up the nearest light oil to hand "Wahl Clipper Oil" and gave it a squirt in through the exhaust and glow plug hole and turned it over a few times. Later it occurs to me that perhaps not all oils are going to like the heat of an operating engine and may infact thicken and cause engine to seize during running in... So, question is - am I worrying about nothing or should I infact try to flush the clipper oil out of the engine before starting for first time and running in!?Edited By Scruffmeister on 28/07/2016 09:30:30
  12. Scruffmeister
    On the contrary, for a 5yr old this is perfect imho Thanks for the note on the batteries.
  13. Scruffmeister
    Hi All, I've obtained a Ripmax Zephyr for my son to start learning to fly on. The manual recommends some very light (1300mAh I think it was) 3S batteries but I imagine this will make it very floaty. What are you flying your Ripmax Zephyr on? Cheers
  14. Scruffmeister
    Cheers.
  15. Scruffmeister
    Just a sanity check please ... am building a Phase 6 (sport version) and have a couple of Multiplex Tiny-MG servos lying around that I would like to use for the ailerons. Am just doing a standard build, one servo per wing. The Tiny-MG gives 3.0 Kg/cm (42 Oz/in) at 6.0V. Will they be up to the job or do I need more torque, and if so how much!? Thanks
  16. Scruffmeister
    Thanks chaps.
  17. Scruffmeister
    I've just joined the wings on my Wot4 Mk3 - and something is puzzling me...!! Have I messed this one up badly, is it normal!? My building board it perfectly flat. When I lay the wings inverted on the board, the entire trailing edge both wings tip-to-root lies flat on the board as shown and there is no visible gap under the entire length of the wing: However, when I put the wing upright and put a weight on one tip, the other tip clearly rises. Is this dihedral expected in a Wot4 Mk3 as I wasn't expecting it based on how carefully I laid up the wing inverted for gluing! Cheers.
  18. Scruffmeister

    Scruffmeister posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  19. Scruffmeister

    Scruffmeister posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  20. Scruffmeister
    Would you recommend Gorilla for joining the two wing halves of a veneered foam wing, or is it better to stick with Epoxy there?
  21. Scruffmeister
    Hi All - I'm planning to use these Multiplex wing servo boxes to install the micro servos in the wings of my Chris Foss Phase 6. What kind of glue would you suggest is best to fix a plastic box like this into a veneer foam wing? Thanks!
  22. Scruffmeister

    Scruffmeister posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  23. Scruffmeister
    Thanks Colin Edited By Scruffmeister on 20/06/2015 20:10:45
  24. Scruffmeister
    I'd be interested to know which shop you used in Germany Colin?
  25. Scruffmeister
    Thanks all, loads of great ideas! Just incase I increase in bravery, are there any well refined designs for this engine size for sport aircraft as plans that you would recommend? Edited By Scruffmeister on 09/06/2015 21:59:27
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