[David Boddington Appreciation Society]

The Seastormer looks amzing Nick, beautiful finish.

[Are we putting too much balsa into models?]

I did some trials with white polystyrene fom cores covered with brown paper and PVA. Some local glasscloth reinforcement, all of which worked to a greater or lessor degree.

One had 1/4 square balsa top and bottom spars let in before covering, another had carbon tow 'spars' top and bottom and another had the BP covering overlaid with 50GSM glasscloth & epoxy.  They all flew well.  From memory, the lightest had the carbon spars and just BP/PVA stressed skin.  The only balsa was the leading edge and a hinge spar.  No veneer at all

[Warbirds Replicas FW190 2023 version - a VLOG of the build]

On my past models I have found a slight tendency for the brown paper to lift and curl away from the cut edges around the servo bay for example. Anywhere where there isn't the overlap.  I now iron a narrow strip of scrap solartex around the edges of the openings and try to wrap it around inside.    The peel back has often not shown itself for a year or so, I guess it could be that the edges are more vulnerable to absorbing damp from the atmosphere?

 

 

 

[Warbirds Replicas FW190 building tips and help.]

Apologies fpr crashing Ron's thread but these are half decent images of the FW 190 panel which builder may find useful

[Warbird Replicas FW190 newbie build (or possibly some wellingtons)]

I have used the PVA/BP covering on several models, large and small with (I think) very acceptable results.  I use the same basic methods as have been outlined here.  Paste the dull side, Let it 'ease' for a few minutes,  Apply to the model working both side of the wing or fus equally.  Once all covered I paint the whole thing and hang somewhere that can dry on all sides equally. any bubbles in the BP will shrink and disappear as it dries but even if it doesn't a light application of an iron will remove all trace.

 

Lightly sand and then paste with PVA all over again.  The next sand pretty much eliminates all signs of overlap.

I usually paint with car celly but I look forward to trying emulsion match pots.

 

Interesting to see all the variations on a theme.  I only use BP on all sheet surfaces but a couple of years ago Ron introduced me to Laminating film which is first class on open frame.

 

All power to everyone on here for showing the way on model building and showing that it doesn't have to cost a fortune to have a god looking model which is different to everyone elses.

 

 

[BMFA SUBS 2024 ????]

I agree, Every single year at this time we have this self flagellation and the same old arguments going round and round.

 

Agree to differ and move on?

[1/6 Westland Whirlwind]

Apologies, I've looked more closelyand seen your light bowl plug.  Very clever!

 

The CG on yours looks to be in a reasonably conventional position.  I seem to remember Chris Golds publishing his plan and in the write up it was much much further back than would have been thought safe.  No arguing with how yours flies though.  It looks really good.

 

[1/6 Westland Whirlwind]

Well done on the L/light bowls.  I take it that you moulded your own?  I have tried a 3D printed version of the same but it was a bit thick walled.

 

Great build by the way, You should be very proud of the achievement.

 

Stu K

 

PS  A sliding canopy would look good  🙂

[Sleeker 32 (now Sleeker37!) free plan, originally from 1968]

Dihedral Brace?

[Stinger 26cc: Noise reduction for Galaxy Mystic]

My first thought was to either neck down both or block off one outlet.

 

On a zenoah 26 I would normally use a  17 x10 or 18x 8

 

 

[Bird of Time Glider]

Definately name your price.  Personally cant be doing with the 'Offers' idea, I would always scroll on by

[Dazza's Ben Buckle Super 60, 4ch.]

Its not a bad idea to move the tailplane to ontop of the fus rather than underslung.  The lower position gets a battering from grass

[Forum members' new models: Let's see them.]

I don't think that you wil get a Zenoah 23/26 in there without most of it hanging out in the breeze.  I had a 90 two stroke in mine many years ago.  I would be looking for a 120 of some kind or perhaps one of the 20cc dle petrol which are much smaller than the zenoahs

[Forum members' new models: Let's see them.]

Nice!

[Vailly FW 190 1/4.5 (Nick Somerville)]

Touch of Cloth?  Simon Lawson from the Isle of Axholme neaar Doncaster. A great guy all round

[Bowman Miles Magister resurrection thread.]

Roy, Those cockpit dashboard panels look outstanding!.  Dash panels are something that I like to do and have had quite good results using a Craft robo cutter to cut the holes in card.  I've never been able to make a job of the dial rims.  How have you done yours??

Nice compass' too

[Nijhuis Lancaster 1/9 scale]

Hang on!  twin legs have less rotational stress than a single leg.  The joiner will need a flat or a dimple but it should be fine.

[Popsie Mills 75 replacement.]

Thinking about it since my last post, I think that I left quite a bit of wood out of that kit.  It was a bit over engineered

[Popsie Mills 75 replacement.]

Hrllo Geoff,

I bult one of those, probably from the same source.  I could never get mine to take off, or ROG in parlance of the day but it flew well from a hand launch.  

Mine flew quite a bit in the first year but hasn't been out for a long time.  Think of the dust as a sort of patina

[Old foam wings, obechi sheeting delaminating. Repair/replacement options?]

For larger (70" plus) 50 gsm cloth would be the norm.  I have glassed foam cores with 80 gsm cloth over a brown paper/pva covered foam core and no veneer.  It worked on a simple wing without wheel wells and would have doubed up as a cricket bat on days when it was too windy to fly.

 

You don't have to cover the whole wing in the same cloth.  Perhaps 50 gsm overal with heavier or doubled up over the centre section and wheel wells.

 

I have also experimented with a carbon tow laid under the glass, top and bottom in lieu of spars and that seemed to work very well for no weight at all

[Come on Weston Park !!!!!]

This idea of 'Booking fees' and 'Admin Fees' are a con that seem to be catching on all over.  If they are not optional then they should be included in the ticket price.  I see that some car sales are including admin fees now.  Its a while since I bought a new car but I'm sure that my own admin fees will be equal to theirs so we can either forget them or I shall be walking out of the door!

 

[Forum members' new models: Let's see them.]

I have both the 1 metre and 1.5 metre 'Thing'.  Great flyers, not so good for the heart rate!

 

[Ashbourne scale]

Yes, I'm in too.

 

[Flair Hannibal]

Its on the main spar.   I thought that I had a digital copy but can't locate it at the moment.  

 

[Flair Puppeteer question]

The struts on a Pupp' are largey decorative.  Fix the wings at the centre section.  Check and rectify any warps with a bit of heat and a twist and then make the struts fit the gap.

 

Unless you have a car that will take it in one piece, make the struts quick fix, don't use nuts and bolts as per plan.  It takes for too long to rig and de rig which completely destroys the pleasure of what is the best by far of all the Flair Scouts.  Been there and done that.