stu knowles

Things like that are easily replaced with a 3D printer now

Definately paint the walls. Ordinatry white emulsion just soaks into blockwork but exterior 'Weathershield' (other types are available) covers brilliantly. Think that I'd have the ceiling covered in plasterboard. Insulate above and put in an oversize loft hatch and ladder. All that space in the apex of the roof looks like essential storage for models in semi retirement. I bought a balanced flue gas heater off ebay for £40 and had it connected to mains gas. Leave it on the smallest pilot light setting all winter. Seems economic and the space is always ready to walk into and start work. sockets along the wall, lots of them

Nice model but a lovely field. Very envious of that

I'm sure that they were designed and kitted by Tony Nihuis. It might be worth asking there

Lovely model of a Jet Provost, the finish is top class. If I were into turbines its one that I would have a go at.

Nice bit of shedology and a great result. Congratulations, lovely model, all the better for being the only one.

looking good!

Yellow box UHU from the Poundshop works really well for me. The only downside is that it is prone to stringing when applying it out of the tube so masking out the canopy or taking all steps to avoid spoiling the clear finish is important

I don't know that particular model but I have followed Chris Golds designs with interest over the years. I suspect that on a model of that size, it would have been hand launched or from a drop off dolly. CG was really good at cutting through the complexities of many designs, finding simple, practical solutions which flew well.

OK Thanks, Happy to have been proved wrong. Good Luck with the sale, it makes up into a lovely model.

As I remember it, the kitbox as sold was crammed full of sheet and strip wood and had no room to drop in the boxed servo let alone a boxed engine. I appreciate that it has been advertised in good faith.

e looking model, Do you have any photos of the whole model?? Yes, not an often modelled type. I'm pretty sure that I saw a thread some time ago where one of the top uk builders also built the BUSA Junkers but beyond a vague memory of it being a bit tail heavy, I can remember what his comments were. What were your thoughts on the kit and the weay tht it went together?? Good luck with it

To be honest, no I didn't but having tried both I wouldn't try the celotex route again

If your door is an 'up and over', its likely that cellotex sheet insulation will be too heavy. I tried it but later took it off and replaced it with the multi layer silvered insulation that comes on a roll secured with gaffer tape or aluminium foil tape. Much lighter and neater and seems very effective

Good looking model and vefry well finished.

Sad to hear this news. Chris Golds was an inspiration, I built his Lancaster when it was first published. It takes a complex prototype and turns it into the most simple build. The finished model looks right and flys right. I have tried to seek out almost everything that he has written in the modelling press ever since. His rate of production was amazing, he described most of them as 'cartoon scale' but they looked so good. I rate him as being high among the modelling greats My sincere condolences to his family and friends

Steve Ricketts had a lovely Z P38 which went in due to elevator flutter (I believe) I once read a list of mods that he considered necessary to the original design but where I saw it is long gone. It would be worth checking in with him. His father uses this forum.

I am really impressed by your production of small fibreglass parts such as the foot steps on this model and the cylinder heads on the Se5. Until you showed the way I would not have considered glass parts for anything much less than cowls and wheel spats. Can I ask what resins you use for the moulds and for the parts themselves. I have made mould for a large cowl, followed by the cowl itself and used skinning epoxy throughout - which is expensive. I did wonder after if I should have used a polyester resin for the mould, which would have been much cheaper and then just used epoxy for the production part. I would appreciate hearing your take on the different resins

Many have been fitted with a Zenoah 38

Well done on your perseverance and finding a fix. I have a Ransomes Motor Triple which must be early 70's vintage. 650 vertical twin and all V belts and chain drive. All very low tech and maintainable, just needs someone to get in there and apply basic principles, fuel, compression, spark and they will go.

Given the year that these models were in use, they were pretty amazing, I would have loved to have seen them.

Is Daniel Siddall on here? He has a letter in the latest mage asking about an article on the models used in the Battle of Britain film. The quality is not very good but I have these phots filed away from goodness knows where. The originals are readable not sure if they will be here. As an aside, the last few mags have been very good IMHO. Plenty of build articles, the correx Hawk look amazing and will be something that I follow up on.

I flew the BUSA DR1 many times and was surprised to find that the angle of the U/C wing made no noticeable difference when it got dislodged. For peace of mind though, best kept more or less in line with the airflow!

Not many rivets on a Mosquito!

Better than cutting your own grass is to buy in a commercial grass cutting firm that cuts a local sports / recreation / school field. No more arguments in the club about grass cutting, Their machinery is usually far more suitable for the acrerage of grass to be cut. Our field costs £65 per cut and we budget for £20 cuts per year. Club fees more than doubled as a result but it has secured the future of the club as we are no longer dependant on one or two people using ill suited domestic mowers