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About Hoochykins
- Birthday 27/12/1988
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I knew I saw it before but I couldn't see it for looking. Much appricated. Cheers guys, very happy with the end result
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Hoochykins started following Receiver power (IC) setup , Precedent Fly Boy , Flair SE5A Kit and 2 others
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Just finished the partly built kit I got as a job lot (first model I've actually seen through to the end currently and only the second model I've covered). I have to say I'm more than happy with the final results even though it took me 4 months to finish off about 20% of the build plus the fittings etc, I did have to undo some of the build to fit the motor I wanted. I stuck in a Webra Speed 20 which I got for £30 and it appears to be new and the best running engine I've got. It ticks over with a very low RPM 😊 I didn't use the decals that came with the kit as I preferred the minimal look. I do want to add a decal in memory of the guy who built most of the model as he didn't finish it before he sadly passed. Just need someone with some Photoshop skills. I did elongate the vertical stabiliser after reading about how the Fly Boys are susceptible to a bit of dutch roll. My question is how much throw to configure on the rudder and elevator as I've seen they don't need much travel.
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Or could I take your interest in my Flair Junior 60, could be a bargain for someone https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286399737580?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3Hx_GQrfRNC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3Hx_GQrfRNC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Currently have a Flair SE5A listed on eBay with a starting price of £60 - if anyone is interesting in sending me offers I will consider. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286376381517 Admins - if eBay links aren't allowed feel free to delete.
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If anyone is interested I've listed the kit on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286376381517?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3Hx_GQrfRNC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3Hx_GQrfRNC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Just bagged myself a Webra Speed 20 motor for my FlyBoy. Anyone know much about them as I can't find a while lot online?
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Much appreciated guys, perfect answers as always. My plan was to stick the carb fully closed when in the model on a momentary switch and adjust tickover with the trim, basically the same as you guys have described. I'm on RadioMaster so have every option under the sun. I'll keep this thread for any more questions I have as no doubt there will be a few, I've got a few engines to get running including some doorstops I'm sure 😁 Let's see which is going to give me the most jip, I thought I'd go with OS first to make my life as easy as possible. Glow MDS 61 - no exhaust or carb needle Thunder Tiger 46 pro - loose carb GMS 2000 40 MDS 18 OS 40 FP Max Saito FA-45 Special SC 25A Thunder Tiger GP 42 MDS 148 MFA 40 OS Surpass 91 FS (FW190) Magnum XL 46 OS Max 40 NS Bluebird 25 MDS 48 Merco .61 Thunder Tiger 45 Thunder Tiger GP 42 OS Max 46LA OS Max 25LA Cox 049 Surestart Irvine 40 Mk3 MDS 17 Pro Diesel OS PET 099 PAW 19 Mk2 Petrol CRRC Pro 26cc
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Now the weather is just about improving I've been giving a few motors a run on my new test stand. I've never tuned glow engines before but have read up quite a bit and watched a fair amount of videos so I have the jist. My question is how should I be setting up the idle on the stand? Should I set the motor up to fully close the carb with no throttle to stop the motor or should it tick over with the throttle fully closed? I presume I would have it so I can fully close the carb when installed into an aircraft then trim the throttle so it doesn't starve the motor or air unless I want to stop it?
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Well the person I got it off has completed the first 3/4 steps of the fuse and I'd like to see it fly rather than keep it boxed up. I'm just waiting for page 1 of the plans as this wasn't in the box but I've checked through everything and it's all there. I'll let someone else enjoy building this one, seems like these kits are few and far between now.
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Thanks guys, much appreciated. I also got a Flair Harvard (mostly built) and a Hi-boy Precedent. I'll probably sell the SE5A as I've already got a SIG Smith Miniplane to build and it isn't my sort of thing 👍🏻
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I've just managed to get hold of a few Flair kits but the box images are different to anything I can find. Are these more modern releases?
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Amazing, thanks guys. A lot to think about, I will get reading 👍
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I knew it wasn't going to be a straight forward answer! Love the feedback though as it gives me options to look into and get an idea of what's being used most commonly. I'm like the look of making my own packs from A123 cells, is this option commonplace? I take it these cells provide the same power as a normal receiver pack/Eneloop pack but don't suffer with voltage drops?
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I've been doing a fair amount of Googling and although I've found a lot of info on different means to power the receiver and servos when running IC I am not sure what the 'norm' is. If I use the Focke Wulf I'm setting up as an example it has 3 standard sized analogue servos, 2 digital standard sized servos in the wings and two electric retracts what would be the best way to power these? I know you can use a 5v receiver battery pack, a A123 pack, a BEC and Lipo or a small Lipo (and likely a lot more) but what is the normal 'go to' or doesn't this exist and everyone using various setups? I'm only talking size 60 IC models and below so nothing major.
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Retract options for VQ Model - Focke Wulf FW-190A 60 size
Hoochykins replied to Hoochykins's topic in Warbird kits
Thanks guys, I bought a job lot of landing gears (piano wire/V shaped gears (metal and carbon)) so bought some £16 retracts. Two questions: 1. Is anyone selling a 4 stroke .60 / .70 motor for pretty cheap? I will go 2 stroke if I can't find one cheap enough 2. I haven't flown any glow yet and I don't know what the normal route for powering the servos is. Is it common or people to use a BEC and Lipo or just go with a receiver power pack or multiple BEC's? The model is using 2x digital full size servos in the wings and 3x analogue in the fuse.