Neil R

I can see this already on my own pages - see My Profile, Member Details, Examiner/CAA details. (I'm not an examiner, but can see the CAA info).

Mine shows valid to 2029 too - I've found this stated in two places on the Portal. However the actual RCC certificate that I uploaded at the time* (in 2021, and which I can still open now as an attachment) says it is valid for 5 years and presumably thus expires Jan 2026. There does thus seem to be something amiss here. But then again I'm a FrSky user, so am sort of used to finding my own paths ... *For what it's worth I have just re-checked my original instructions from 2021 on how to upload an RCC certificate into the Portal's Achievements area, and they do say the expiry date was an auto-generated field.

Well I've just received the promised BMFA comm, which tells me my Flyer ID was issued in error, and that I must now catch up with the RCC test before end Nov. What's throwing me somewhat now is that I actually did the RCC test in 2021, and the portal shows this as still 'active' (with an expiry date of 2029).

I got my Mode 1 from T9 Hobbysport who ordered it in direct from Frsky. Took about 3 weeks to arrive. I couldn’t find any how-to videos for this model at the time.

As mentioned in Duncan Disorderly's original thread on here, I built myself one of these field packs - I attempted to make a direct copy of his. It's had a big impact on the number of flights I've been achieving, but next time I'd do one thing slightly differently. My conscience still occasionally bothers me about the +ve end of each cell. Apart from the small positive button itself the entire remainder of the cell casing is negative. This includes the casing overlap at the +ve end of the cell. Connecting the cells with any sort of flat strip, or soldered wire in my case, doesn't leave much margin for error in not damaging / relying on that small amount of plastic protection that the cells come with - failure of such would cause a dead short. I see in the photos above that Phil has added some additional red heat-shrink at this critical location (it's the -ve end in his A123 example), plus I can maybe see some slight arching of his strips. Both strike me a good practice, and is what I've done when going on to make actual Li-ion flight packs. (Noting that the normal types of nickel strip don't carry enough amps in that application). You might also consider buying some additional stick on insulator rings - something like these: 200x 21700 Battery Insulation Gasket Adhesive Cardboard Rings For Battery Green | eBay.

Does this help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g The example covers mixing rudder onto an aileron channel. You need to mix rudder stick to your throttle channels. And, for example, at 01:32 you will see 'switch' at the top RHS of the screen, where you can also assign a switch / switch position which can be used to activate or disable this extra mix line. I nearly missed this bit - you will need to split your two throttles into two separate channels.

Peter - you keep saying that Li-Ions are heavier than LiPos. I'll inverse your 'for the same capacity' caveat, and instead say that 'for the same weight' I'm personally seeing Li-Ions having up to 50% extra capacity. I'll put some numbers at the bottom of this post which you can check yourself. I've assumed for Li-Ion we're talking about twinned 18650 or 21700 cells, so typically 2500 / 3000 mah and 4500 / 5000 mAh respectively. For Rx packs of lower capacities I accept you'd probably still be looking at LiPo or LiFe, and in such cases the final weight will likely be less. My own thinking is that the main current disadvantage for Li-Ions is the poor availability of mass produced made-up packs and hence the current higher prices (noting that Nick Mann on the BMFA Classifieds is doing his bit in presumably smaller volumes). For actual electric flight packs the advantages of Li-Ion have started to win me over much more - I've just DIY built a couple of 4S Molicel packs, which like LiPos also charge to 4.2V, and for just a few extra grams I have replaced a 2800 mAh LiPo with a 4500 mAh Molicel pack. Given that these are essentially Electric Vehicle & Laptop cells I personally will have no qualms about charging in situ, and I'm going to worry less about returning them to storage charge if not used on any given day. It's the recent improvements in discharge 'C' rates for the Molicels in particular that have started to make these flight packs more viable. The data I just googled was: Li-Ion 18650: Molicel P30B 3000 mAh 48g ea; x2 and add ~10g for leads 106g Samsung 30Q 3000 mAh 46g 102g Samsung 25R 2500 mAh 44g 98g Li-Ion 21700 Samsung 50S 5000 mAh 65g ea; ditto 140g Moilcel P45B 4500 mAh 72g 154g LiPo: Nano-Tech 2s 2000 mAh 110g Turnigy 2s 3600 mAh 173g LiFe: Nano-Tech 2s 2100 mAh 115g Nano-Tech 2s 3000 mAh 183g

@Duncan Disorderly- many thanks for providing the inspiration, here's one I've put together over the last couple of weeks. It was finished earlier today, and so far the charging is keeping all the voltages nice and even, which gives me confidence I didn't kill anything when soldering. (I bought an ISDT Air 8 also). This is going to absolutely transform my flying, perhaps especially in terms of grabbing those last minute opportunities when nothing else has been charged. Thanks again!

Thanks v much DD for the interesting and inspiring post; I'm now very interested in putting one of these packs together. Which exact cell did you pick please? - was it the one of the LG M50 variants? I'm also really hoping you will post those extra piccies of the wiring within the case, I haven't quite worked out yet where the fuses would go. Thanks!

Although I subscribe, I'd binned my copy of the May '22 magazine before deciding to build a Gyroo. So I bought a back issue direct from this RCM&E website (link below, selecting the print copy option). It came complete with the free plan. Obviously you'll need to check out if they post overseas. Radio Control Models & Electronics | MAY 2022 (classicmagazines.co.uk)

In case it helps below are the notes I made and have used since for myself. I've got a Taranis and a Horus. Some may not be relevant to your own choices. I love the extra realism the gyro (in stabilisation mode) adds to scale models especially when it's a bit gusty. Looks like it might be quite hard to find these Rx now from new (I've seen the 'wanted' add on BMFA classifieds!), and I've not yet bitten the bullet to see if the new (Archer?) types are backward compatible. 1. Transmitter Binding and Set-Up: Bind in D16, at least 12 channels (?), 9 is gain, 10 and 11 are stab mode switches, 12 is self check. Also set a dedicated Rx number. Channel Order: A(L) E T R A2(R) E2 (first four are fixed). Ch 9 (Gain adjuster) set like this: Ch09 S1 Weight (+50%) NoTrim Offset (50%). Don’t use more than roughly 30% initially. Ch 10 (gyro on/off): use a curve +100 (on) to 0 (off). Ch 11 (mode): force to zero (assumes only stabilisation function required). Ch 12 (self check): needs to be default at either -100% (Up ^) OR +100% (Down v) either will work. 2. New Receiver Initial 6 Axis Calibration – Needs a Flat Surface: Use lua script on Tx. No cables needed. On Taranis it’s in Menu – long press – tab to SD card – S6R – S6R_Calibrate.lua Execute and follow instructions Needed once only 3. Set Model Type and Mounting Position: As above except use S6R.lua Note that new SxR receivers will come with quick (simple) mode enabled which should be disabled. Scroll between pages 1 and 2 to confirm that any changes have taken effect. Select the Aux2 box if you don’t want active stabilisation on that channel (e.g. tick Ele2, frees up that channel for use by another function). 4. Mount Rx in Model: Pins to rear, orientation as previously chosen. Servos connected as indicated on Rx 5. Set Normal Throws and Directions Leave in Max Rates 6. Chicken Dance and Attitude & Stick Calibrations: Ch 12 on SwF is currently set-up only to be active at mid SwG, where throttle also active. So Prop off! Then SwF needs to be flipped [equates to 0.0% (Mid) and then back to either +/- 100%] and repeated three times in three seconds before the Self Check Function will activate. You can also press the F/S, Bind Button on the receiver for a Self Check function. The Self Check Function: This function is performed to firstly to calibrate the Radio Stick movement endpoints to the receiver (it saves these values) and also it saves the current angle of Attitude (hold it steady) so it knows where it should keep the planes Attitude at during Level Flight. This Attitude should be set at very slightly Nose Up to prevent the plane going into a dive when in Auto Level Mode as this could result in a high speed dive and crash. The plane must be set at the correct attitude and not moved during this Self Check operation. Once Ch12 is activated, after a second or so the control surfaces will Twitch (Dance) then stop. Only after the dance (2 sec) has stopped do you start the Sticks calibration (use full rates!). The dance seems to need all servos connected. Depending on the Plane Type set you need to move the Aileron, Elevator and Rudder to the extreme endpoints of the Sticks travel, only a couple of times. Close by increasing throttle stick to max then depower (there is conflicting guidance on which of these actions saves the settings!). 7. Check Stabilising Directions S6r.lua allows for changes of directions and setting of individual gains. 8. Set Failsafe to Auto Level Mode (copy from PM or Avanti) 9. Fly and Adjust Gains as Required. Auto-Level: Stabilisation: Hover: Knife-Edge: Off: Ch10 (100); Ch11 (100) Ch10 (100); Ch11 (0) Ch10 (100); Ch11(-100) Ch10 (-100); Ch11 (0) Ch10 (0)

Although I strongly suspect that I fly alongside 100% BMFA members, I'm part of a 'group', not a club, and as such it isn't affiliated, nor do we have a committee. I also occasionally fly from other random places like a family member's farmland. And, perhaps on a less sound footing, from deserted beaches when on hols. So I'm a BMFA Country Member, and I sort of assumed that there will be quite a lot like me? I'm really hoping that the BMFA is going to give a strong voice (and guidance) on supporting all such flying / flying sites, and not just the 'easier' interests of those members in affiliated clubs. For the very first time in all this madness I am, however, beginning to fear the worst, and like Ron I am feeling the need to examine my own conscience. [Yes - I know - our group should affiliate - but that's not really my call]. This is getting ever more off the subs topic - but you won't find me bashing anyone who provides polite and well argued discussion points - it's always good to see both sides of any argument, and sensible adult discussion does make us better informed in the end.

So here it is. It's a fully 'stock' build, with the recommended motor, servos, etc. Even with the sharp leading edges, which I'll confess confounded all my instincts. It was especially rewarding to find all the cut parts went together perfectly - the magazine plan was spot on, well done to all involved. I'll probably not fly it until Spring - the last guy who tried to drive to our field got stuck in a waterlogged patch. I'm feeling slightly guilty that my last post was supposed to reinforce a question from 'Affair' - but I think I ended up pushing it to the background - apols to you Affair. With the covering and 5g tip weights I did finally get my own blades to 45g, hopefully this will be ok.

I have just reached the same stage myself, and my uncovered blades are also coming out coming out around 34g, so I'm watching this thread with interest. I haven't yet glued on the bottom plates so have been wondering about adding a full-length layer of 1/64th ply. I did take my scales to the model shop when buying the wood, and picked the heavier spruce: their stock 3ft lengths seemed to vary from about 45 to 65g, which surprised me. I also thought I'd found some good med/hard balsa, but didn't weigh that, maybe a target sheet weight might help others? I've really enjoyed this build though, which after nearly 40 years of flying is my first from a magazine free plan!

I did find some old stuff on the Acrowot and this pitch down tendency - in this very forum! - link below - scroll down slightly see the post from MattyB. The embedded quote also explains that the full size Miles Magister had a similar characteristic. I don't buy for one moment that this particular effect is due to rolling (change in bank angle), but it is of course a yaw (more correctly sideslip) effect. I've obviously no idea how well this translates to the Pitts in the original question though!