Allan Bennett

I've done just like Ron says. Mix some positive rudder into one throttle channel and the same amount of negative rudder into the other, both activated by a switch.

If you don't know what the original is (how do you test?), use epoxy because it will bond to polyester. Not vice versa.

In my opinion you should use epoxy resin, rather than polyester resin, for all repairs because it will stick to any type, whereas polyester might not stick to epoxy. Naturally you need to roughen up the old glass where you want to make a bond. I've only ever used West Systems 105 epoxy with their 206 hardener and for filling holes I might start with 100g or 200g cloth. For creating new parts from a mould I generally use 100g in several layers.

I'm with the others when it comes to using batteries for as long as their flight performance doesn't deteriorate too much (or they don't overheat or puff). For what it's worth though, many moons ago I read somewhere (don't remember) that a study had shown that a desirable IR would be something like 12000 divided by the mAh of the pack. In the case mentioned in the OP that would be 12000/1800 = 6.67. I have several 6S 2600mAh packs with IRs greater than that recommendation which are still flying my heli for the same duration as originally, and don't overheat or puff.

The cowls I've repaired have needed a full scrub-down and repaint, so I haven't really thought about how to protect the outside 😃 I would suggest applying masking tape over the outside if you need to keep it clean while glassing the inside. Note that it's best to use epoxy resin (such as Z-poxy) rather than polyester when covering existing epoxy, for it will stick to either type. Personally I prefer to lay the fibre mat first, and persuade it round curves with my finger, before stippling the resin into it. After the resin has gone off I use P38 body filler for any holes.

I'm pleased to report that my first S8R UNI has flown two 10-minute flights today without any issues. Stabilisation and self-levelling both felt the same as previously in flight. Thank you Mike for all the work you've done on developing and supporting this firmware.

Indeed, a long press does the job. Thank you again MIke.

Job done .... I think! You're right, Mike, about the simplicity of the .lua scripts compared with the FrSky PC software, so I'm converted. Two last questions though; (1) Having gone through the 2 pages of the "standard" script (FrSky SxR.lua) and the 2 pages of UNI-Sxr v1.lua, and corrected the directions of the control surfaces, all seems to be working correctly when I move the model around on the bench in stabilisation and self-levelling modes. But do I not have to go through the final self-check routine by switching ch12 on and off 3 times? I tried it and nothing happened. (2) After completing the pages of any .lua script I couldn't find a way to return to normal Tx operation on my Taranis -plus, other than powering it off and on again. Am I missing something?

Thanks Mike. i'm afraid this is all a bit of a learning curve for me, always having used PC interfaces for programming rather than lua scripts. Anyway, I'm now beginning to understand the relevance of all the files listed in the first couple of posts in the Aloft forum, and shall work my way through the relevant ones.

The good news is I found the configuration which I had saved on my laptop; the UNI programming has gone well, the S8R in the model responds correctly to Tx inputs, and I've been able to connect to two different Txs without having to press the bind button. The bad news is I can't get my UNI S8R receiver to accept any calibration. I'm using FrSky FreeLink software connected to the S8R via a FrSky STK connected to the SPort (STK in CONFIG mode with connection to channel 1), as I did on this and a couple of other models before. I Loaded the configuration to FreeLink from the saved version on my laptop, and the data looks like I remember. I then Wrote it to the S8R, but when I Read it back only the gain settings are correct -- Rx orientation has reverted to default and AUX1 and AUX2 are not checked in the Wing Type screen. Writing and Reading seemed to execute okay, with the progress bar taking about 15 seconds to go from 0 to 100%. I seemingly have no problem correcting the values and then Writing them, but when I Read them back after Closing, re-booting the Rx and re-Opening, the Wing Type and Mounting Type data have reverted to default. Also, when I go to the Accelerometer Calibration screen (a) the illustration starts with the Rx in default mode rather than in the Right Up mode that I've specified and, (b) when I click on Calibrate there's no orange light to signify calibration in progress. The S8R red light just keeps flashing slowly as it has done throughout the process. I've tried this now on the UNI S8R in my model and on another spare UNI S8R on my work bench, with exactly the same result. Any ideas where I'm going wrong, please?

Thank you Mike. I didn't note the existing settings before flashing 😒. Anyway no real problem going through the setup again.

When flashing UNI to an S8R receiver is it necessary to go through the levelling process again after activation? Assuming that the Rx has not been physically disturbed in the model during the process.

I don't remember (and internet search has, I think, confirmed) that my 10C doesn't have 'Conditions' programming, though many of the 'Z'-suffix models do. But no matter -- I don't have a single regret about moving, because of the voice alterts and the almost limitless programmability I've now got.

Once you've gone for two separate servos, rather than one in the middle with pushrods actuating the ailerons, you might as well connect them to two separate channels. Then you have the advantage of being able to program them as flapperons if you wish. Disadvantage is it might mean you have to jump from a 4-channel receiver to a 6-channel, and you need to program the extra channel.

I used Futaba for the first 25 years or so of my flying career, but changed to FrSky Taranis when I found that my 10C couldn't give me a throttle-cut that would operate on two separate throttle channels. Are more-modern Futabas more flexible now?