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Allan Bennett

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  1. Some others of us are a bit slow too! I'd never heard of 17Track until you mentioned it. But it seems like you have to pay for it, after a free trial period.
  2. Thanks EarlyBird, I hadn't seen that report, or noticed the comment in TN's build notes. I had thought it odd how much the fans are angled upwards which, since they're behind the c of g, I suppose must push the tail down and the nose up under power. I'll watch out when I eventually get a chance to maiden mine, and incorporate the suggested mix if the behaviour is a problem. Thanks too to Ingolf Steffensen
  3. That seems to be one of life's mysteries! In the A10 thread in the TN Models sub-forum there's a few people, including me, writing that they're building one. But not one mention of a successful flight. Mine is ready for it's maiden flight, but I've been thwarted last Sunday and today by the wind direction and strength. Hopefully next Sunday . . . .
  4. Having sometimes struggled to get a good cure when glassing a model with epoxy resin, today I had the opposite problem! I was doing a small job to repair the front end of my Kyosho Learjet, and mixed 15ml of West Systems epoxy with 3ml of their 'slow' hardener. I was stippling the resin on, and after about 20 minutes the job was practically finished, but when I dipped my brush into the pot for a last dab, the pot had gone completely hard, and was too hot to hold. No warning. The previous dip into the pot, probably 20 seconds earlier, had seemed normal, and spread easily. I must remember to keep the pot of mixed resin in a bath of cold water in the future.
  5. My storage is a set of 'pigeon holes' made out of 1/2" plasterboard, with a hinged front held closed by a magnet. Supposedly the board is 1/2-hour fire resistant, and I reckon that sited in a suitable location it will keep the batteries at a sensible temperature.
  6. I use cyano a lot in my builds, and have never had it cause a problem. For electric models I don't think there's much need for anything else, though I do tend to use epoxy or white PVA if I'm gluing large surfaces where the cyano might not wick all the way to the centre, or where I want to be able to slide things around to get the best fit.
  7. All single-engined RC models I've built have some down- and side-thrust specified. Is it not the case that, generally speaking, more airspeed creates more lift, and a small amount of downthrust is intended to counter this? Side thrust, as already mentioned, is to counter the torque and/or vortex effect. Of course, both effects can be countered by the pilot's use of elevator and rudder if they're aware of the issue. But why not build the model to fly straight without the need for pilot correction?
  8. My Flair SE5a flew just fine with an OS48 4-stroke in it. For the past umpteen years though it's been powered by a Graupner Compact 390 motor on a 5-cell A123 battery pack.
  9. Problem solved! Powering the receiver separately didn't work. I then tried another receiver, to make sure it's not the receiver that's the problem -- same result. I then went to the FrSky Download page intending to re-install the frsky_update_sport program, and noticed at the bottom of the STK page a 'Driver - Windows' section. I downloaded and installed the driver, and the STK is now working as it should. There's been umpteen Windows 10 updates since I last used the STK, so I guess one of them has invalidated, or is incompatible with, the previous driver.
  10. I'm a little suspicious of the 100g figure; I believe an SC61 engine weighs about 600g with muffler, but what was the engine it replaced? The next size down, a 55, would weigh about 450 grammes without muffler (the only info I could find on the internet), so the engine weight difference you're trying to compensate for is maybe 100g, but if it's placed at the extreme rear of the aircraft much less will be needed due to the greater distance from the c of g. Having said that, if your 100g figure is the result of a physical check (e.g. a spanner temporarily taped onto the tail), you can safely ignore my comment
  11. Thanks MIke. My normal process has been to only plug the receiver in after 'finding receiver' is displayed. In the past (maybe 2 years ago) it seemed to find the receiver quite quickly (2 or 3 seconds), and then display the firmware file name and make the 'Download' button active. For the moment I've put a spare receiver that is already v2 into the model for tomorrow's flying, but after the weekend I'll try powering the receiver separately and connecting only signal and ground to the STK.
  12. Weather's looking good for tomorrow, so I took out one of my favourite models that I haven't flown for a long while, to check it over. Turns out it's so long since I flew it that it's not bound to my transmitter and, worse still, it's still got v1 firmware on it! So, (1) out with my STK, plug it into my laptop's USB port, (2) start up frsky_update_sport_rev20 program which I've used many times in the past, (3) find the appropriate v2 firmware (already stored on my laptop), (4) connect the X6R receiver's SBUS port to #2 port on the STK, with its DIP switch set to 'Upgrade'. The left indicator on the updater screen flashes red/green and the right one is solid red, and the LED on the receiver flashes red. But the message on the updater screen says 'finding receiver ...' and stays like that for ever -- the selected firmware name doesn't appear in the screen and 'Download' button never becomes active. I've checked this process with another spare receiver, with the same result. Any ideas please?
  13. "Target weight" with or without battery? I've just about finished the build, and am pleased to find that without battery I'm under TN's "target weight" of 1,300g. But the 400g battery pack is going to take me significantly over What have other builder achieved weight-wise? Is TN's "target weight" supposed to be with or without battery?
  14. I suspect that the weight difference may depend on what colour you're using; For instance, I've found that yellow needs many more coats to get a consistent, accurate, colour than most other colours. So, if you have some accurate scales (or simply use a balance arm with identically sized samples) you may need to do some tests to determin the answer to your question. Personally, since going electric, I prefer water-based acrylics for airbrushing. Partly because they don't smell, and partly because the airbrush is easier to clean. My favourite brand is Lifecolor, which comes in a vast range of military colours as well as 'normal' ones. I usually prime with Halfords plastic primer spray can, then finish off with a light covering of Humbrol clear varnish.
  15. Watching the Silverstone grand prix yesterday on TV, several times I saw the shadow of what looked like a regular hobby-type quadcopter on and alongside the track. Was that another idiot, or an 'official' TV drone? Whatever, it doesn't sound right with cars going 200mph just below it.
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