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stu knowles

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Posts posted by stu knowles

  1. Congratulations on a lovely finished model and for developing alternative construction materials and methods.  These are so important today to offset the (trade supported) idea that people today don't have the time or skills to build and that they must buy the latest plastic fantastic with all the servos installed.

    Do give it a try off water.  its great fun and an added dimension to the hobby.

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. One of the guys in our club is a great advocate of the DB Tyo Major, three or four channel.  The club was in need of a simple Trainer model and so I recently put this one together.  Three channel, with the fus slightly wider than plan to facilitate the battery / esc  and servos.  SO simple to build and very quick.  The wings are foam core with carbon tows laid on the top and lower surface in lieu of spars. Balsa L/e and T/e to be a bit more ding proof and then joined and covered with brown paper / PVA.  A couple of layers of 80 gsm glasscloth as dihedral brace and stop the bands from digging in.  Then all covered in the cheapest film covering that I could find.  The finished wing came in at 300 grammes when a foam veneer wing, also film covered was 550 grammes

     

    Most of the wood came out of the scrap box and the fin and tailpane core are foam board with a balsa frame.  Motor & ESC came from the Retford swopmeet and was £20 all in.  I don't have a full and final cost but less than £50.

     

    As a trainer it is superb. Very stable and easy to fly.  I'm very impressed with it.  I learned with a Super 60 but this one is better.  As a means of giving a complete novice some success on their first outing it has proved very  good.

     

    The only downside is the limited duration on 3 cell 2200 lipos.  I may well build another fus with a 20 glow motor just to improve the duration

     

    Who needs a stabilised RX??  😉

    IMG_3117.jpg

    IMG_3119.jpg

    • Like 8
  3. I have just caught up with your last few posts.  A lovely looking model which is a great credit to the builder.  I have to say that the thought of closed loop ailerons make me shudder, -  Lots of potential failure points like cable slipping off rollers etc, but If you have made it work, well done -  

  4. Hi All,

    Sorry to be a pain but I'm back with another question.  Well, the same question as in the OP. I thought that I was sorted but as it turns out, not so.

    In the YT video above the specs for the electric set up used are given as follows;-

     

    2s 280mah lipo

    Turnigy ESC 10amp Brushless

    X2204-21 1800KV

    10" plastic prop

     

    The motor can be seen in the video at time 2.01   It's a pretty flat, large diameter brushless motor slightly different to anything that I have seen before.  I should say that I know nothing about lekky and motor designations.

     

    I have searched for that motor designation.  The ones with the closest numbers are described as for racing drones - which I would have thought are intended for small, fast revving props, the exact opposite of my requirements in the KK Gypsy.

    I also mailed a well known supplier of well known motor / esc combos but haven't had anything back yet so at the moment I'm at the end of the road.

     

    Can anyone point me towards a motor of a similar spec to the X220421 1800KV thats (a) suitable for ultralight models and large slow revving props and (b) Available in the UK.

     

    Thanks for reading.  If you need advice on glow motors and petrol up to 80cc - I'm all over it but this stuff is a foreign land to me.

    regards,

    Stu K

  5. Hi All,

    In a complete departure from building large models, I recently picked up the re-released Keil Kraft Gypsy kit which I am looking forward to building.  I would like to convert it to electric power and probably two channel on motor and rudder.

     

    I thought that there would have been quite a few who have already gone this way but on this occasion Mr Google has let me down.  I was sure that I had seen something on this forum but can't find it now.

     

    Can anyone help or offer a suggestion?  A geared motor turning a large prop would be ideal but maybe asking too much.  

     

    Radio fit not such a problem but thoughts on Motor/ESC/Battery most welcome.

    regards & thanks

     

    stu k

  6. I always use a curve on the throttle to reduce the response at low throttle position, petrol and glow.  Without it the response from mid stick to full is minimal.  Using a curve makes fine adjustments of power on a landing approach much more manageable.

     

    I am surprised to see people advocating against their use, one of the benefits of modern TXs surely?

  7. If you connect the two outlets together in the way that you have you will get an apparent leak as one tube would be driving the retract and the other will be open to the air.

    Attach two separate tubes, each with one end blocked and try again

    • Like 1
  8. I have flown all of the Flair Scouts and a couple of 1/4 scale DR1's.  The Baronette is by far the most difficult of all of them to get off the ground, in fact mine is still in the garage loft with broken spars on all three wings. It happened so often I got fed up of repairing it.  My Dr1's were from the Balsa USA stable, so not true scale but powered with zenoah 26s.  So long as you were pretty close into wind, take off and landing was uneventful.

    They have a great shape in the air and are not festooned with lots of rigging. All qualities that make a good WW1 model.

  9. The whole mag content seems to be based on recycling articles from long past and now defunct mags. 

     

    The plan was a Morane Saulnier N108, which is a bit 'cartoon scale' but a nice looking model, quite compact for a large scale (1/3rd) and without a mass of rigging.  It will be the first time that I have strayed from the Sarik plans range.  Have to say that their responses and services are much better.  Interesting observation Ron, I look forward to inspecting if/when it arrives

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