stu knowles

I haven't personally sprayed onto film but I know that 'Prymol' is a solarfilm product especially for preparing the surface of the film to accept paint. I have read good reports.   i would have thought that paint onto film without a suitable chemical etch would not work well.   stu k @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); Primer is to produce a good surface for top coat and or an even colour underneath light colours, I wouldn't say that its essential for using solarlac.   I thin with cellulose thinners. If not thinned enough it tends to spray a bit like cotton wool.   I have used Solarlac quite a lot and found it fuel resistant and pretty good all round. I use clearcoat as a final waft over any stickers or weathering and all around the front of the fus   stu k @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);Edited By stu knowles on 28/01/2011 20:50:47

You have posed a question that will get you a different answer for every person you ask although you have also correctly identified probably the biggest model breaker in model flying, engine cuts!   This is my way and (touch wood) I rarely suffer from this problem.   Tune for high speed. leave it no more than a couple of click on the rich side of perfect. Tune the low speed,Read up how to do airbleed and two needle carbs. Get the right setting by pinching shut the fuel feed just before the carb while the engine is ticking over.   If the rpm rises a lot, its too rich. if they die with no rise, too lean. small rise in rpm and then slowly dies.... just right (said Goldilocks)   If the engine still plays up, clean the carb and back flush with fuel. Use a good plug, My favourite is an Enya No 3.   Good quality engines repay the investment times over by not wrecking models.   Time invested in getting a good engine set up is rarely wasted. Good luck stu k @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); To speak for an alternative view, I shudder when I see models restrained by the comparatively fragile tailplane while being started, or even worse, run up to full throttle.  Not for me anyway.   I prefer to use the leading edge of the wing , most often using my flight box in front of one wing and a padded stick driven into the ground in front of the other.  On particularly tall models, two padded sticks.   I accept that this is a minority view but IMHO neither the construction of the tailplane and rear fuselage or the close proximity of all of the elevator and rudder linkages, make tail restraints a good idea.     You pays your money......     stu k  @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);Edited By stu knowles on 03/01/2011 14:24:54

  I have an example of the Phil Ramsey Gladiator, found at the Nats bring & buy a couple of years ago.  Its very nice, flying with a zenoah 20 which just about fits inside the cowl. My guess is that with a 'normal' glow motor, it would need an additional housebrick up front to balance.   Apart from a pretty rubbish canopy, it makes into a very nice model, just small enough to get into my car ready assembled. (very important)   I haven't seen any mention of PR kits for years.When they were being made, they were quite expensive.   Nice model photos in this thread. I have a pic of mine somewhere, I'll try to find it.   good luck with yours   stu k  @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

I would add my vote for the DH Dove airliner, undermodelled so far but my fave suggestion would be for a Leopard Moth (or any of the other high wing monoplane moths   beautiful aeroplanes and would make fine models.  Even a 60 powered version could be 100 " span.   stu k  @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

I think that the z20 will be more than big enough for this model. Regardless of the numbers, I would say that it way outperforms a 120 fourstoke and its clean, clean, CLEAN!!!!  No more dreadfull gunge all over the model after every flight.   The z 20 is a quite wide engine, the carb sticks out of one side and the silencer is on the opposite side. This is more likely to be a deciding factor .   stu k  @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Hi there,   I built, ( and still have ) the CG Lanc quite a few years ago. It still has a few sorties every year. This year I flew it from the hallowed tarmac of Scampton airfield, which was rather nice.   I was sceptical about the CG foam and BP methods, but I do recommend that you stick to his methods.  I was amazed at how it shrinks and gives a stressed skin to the foam.  If the BP was swopped for tex type material, I fear that there would be a lot of give in the tex which would weaken the overall airframe and not look half so good.   I think the finish when done 'as per' is good. I finished mine with flair paint and it has lasted well.   Chris Golds  has always called this model 'cartoon scale' which describes it well. It looks like a Lancaster. It builds quick and cheap. It flies well and has outlasted its expected lifespan by several years. Good Luck with yours stu k Edited By stu knowles on 12/09/2010 20:59:36