Mike L

Just bought a ASP120FS - question.. is the choke mechanism necessary? I am putting it in a Revolver 70 to replace a Saito 91FS and its a squeeze so could do with removing it. There are no references to using this choke in the instructions and I have never used a choke before (apart from me finger!) Cheers, Mike

Martin, I am currently in the middle of building one of these kits having picked it up on ebay a while back. PM me your email and I will take a photo of the wing section in the instructions and send to you. Mike

Sorry, should have made it clear, its the ARTF version. Apologies!

I am contemplating taking my trusty wot4 out to Dubai where I now work and had a brainwave to split the assembled wings for ease of shipping i.e. in the baggage hold. I know the brace is epoxied into a pocket and may take some extracting but I have experience in building from plans so am not daunted by some surgery. Before I wield the axe any comments would be welcome especially from those who have seen inside the wing !!

vaseline, works a treat

Chris Foss xtra wot - nice combination, I flew this for many years. Just about to give it a new home in a XL wot 4, should be fun!

Steve; took a flyer and ordered 4" so might as well use it up. Danny/Alan; thanks for feedback

I have just purchased off ebay a Mick Reeves Spitfire , this is the 63" sports scale, In the instructions it states a 6" fibreglass strip should be used to join the foam wings. Personally I would have thought 4" would be ok but I defer to MR expertise. I bought two 4" gf wing joint kits - now my question is.. what is the best way of achieving the 6" i.e 4" across centre and two 2" strips at the sides with 1" overlap or overlap the two strips 1" in the centre...or what?

Sad to hear issues with CF kits. I built an xtra wot now getting on for 10 years old has moki 135 up front, lovely combination and still flies very well. If I crashed it I would get another. Bought CF WOT4 artf a couple of years ago and it is a great flier and good value. Sorry but I do rate CF planes!    

Yes I agree with Erflog, I think we have "done" this topic for now and are in danger of going round in circles.   Enjoyed it even if BEB made me feel like Del Boy at one stage!!   Mods - time to move on? @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

BEB   The reality in the guitar market surely applies to this subject, Tokai and PRS produce guitars that are better than Gibson/Fender, trust me on this, several legal suits ensued. As you rightly state Gibson bought Epiphone/Squire, Fender manufacture in Mexico and Corona now to defend their positions in the market. If you want to be cool buy a USA Fender, Gibson and pay the PREMIU OTT price. If you want a guitar that plays better you can pay a fraction of the price without having the cool element. Your choice!!!   Its the same in this situation. These clone receivers now exist, let Futaba sue if there is infringment, they are not so that speaks volumes. Let Futaba compete in the market which they can for sure and defend themselves. Didn't OS do this with the Blue head range years ago to compete with SC/ASP?   Mike          

BEB   Try telling that to the USA based guitar manufacturers under continual attack from japanese copies since the 1980's ( and copies made in USA as well!!??)   BTW its 3.24am and I need to get a life!!

BEB - Firstly, thanks for your statement. Secondly without having lawyers crawl all over whatever patents etc exist, we are merely the end users, who are now being given a choice. Thirdly, and most importantly, which is why I started this thread, are these products safe to use.   As has been said before if there is a property theft issue, Futaba are big enough to look after themselves and I don't see them jumping about. I bought my Orange Rx from Hobbyking who are a reputable outfit. We can then talk about healthy competition. You are confident about the "theft" , equally I am confident that Futaba charge OTT. As also stated the Orange Rx has far superior failsafe than Futaba.   If I go to the souk in Jeddah and buy the latest PS3 game for a quid I know exactly what I am getting. I dont think that this is the same case by any stretch of the imagination.   The fact of the matter is that if someone wants to challenge Futaba (you assume illegally, I do not agree) then bring it on, we all face competition in life.   If someone can prove to me that this is intellectual property theft or that the units are not fit for purpose I will be the first to bin them all.      

As the OP, I take exception the statement I am using "hooky gear" and I request an immediate retraction.

Phil   As Andy says, all methods ok, I have used all the above including the servo upfront (in the tank bay, would be nervous fixing too close to the engine!) All equally satisfactory althought the bent rod needs careful aligning or can be a pain.

Phil.   My method is to drill the holes in the cowl for the fixing screws, then on the inside of the cowl, fix a steel washer with the same hole size as the hole in the cowl.   I normally use a bit of fibreglass tissue superglued in place to hold the washer in place. Roughen the surface of the cowl before fixing the washer.   This stops the vibration enlarging the hole in the cowl. If its an abs cowl you could use an offcut of abs with suitable glue to fix the washer.   Only downside of the above method it that it holds the cowl off the fuselage a fraction.

Hi Robin   I didn't have this plate on my wot 4 - I used 2 steel washers (think they were included) and epoxied them to the top of the TE after cutting some trim away. 100 flights and still ok with no crushing of the TE. If you are worried just follow Richards advice.

Update 27/7/2011   Received these units from HK, installed in my trusty Wot 4, binds no problem, set failsafe in rx and disabled tx failsafe, all as per instructions, all works.   Range checked ok and had couple of flights yesterday which were fine, flying out as far as I would ever wander, no glitches at all.   So that leaves me the happy punter!   Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.    

Erflog and Ultymate - I know there isn't a definitive answer to my question but I certainly appreciate the feedback regarding use or observation of the product in action.   Thanks.

Ian, yes I totally agree with your comments re the potential for damage from any flying model.   I got the impression reading the various forums that this idea was coming from the range capability and also a model investment point of view. Obviously safety is an absolute priority and the range aspect would form part of this.

They are on their way Pete so haven't had a chance to try them yet, but you are spot on - basically I am looking for some reassurance - especially as I am now flying in a more strictly regulated country!

I know this is a much discussed topic on other threads and forums, however I have just returned from overseas and my 72mhz futaba radio is now redundant. I have a 2.4 futaba 6ex and ONE rx and several models. Before reading the relevant forums, in a flash of inspiration (duh) I ordered from HK a couple of Orange 8ch Fasst rxs - problem solved thought I.   There are loads of comments re the use of these receivers and I dont want to reopen debate but can I summarise what I have gleaned as the general consensus and you can tell me yes or no - or am I being naive?   1. They are on the face of it perfectly ok but why risk non brand goods with such a critical function. (I suppose that should be the end of argument but bear with me...)   2. Non CE branded stuff is not an issue.   3. Insurance could be an issue.   4. Ok for use but on small park fly type models. Use your branded gear on the larger models (assumed to be 0.40 + IC type planes)   In summary if you are an average club flier (as me) stick with what you trust.   Thank you for your patience guys.          

I agree with Peter, the fus looks like a enlarged rubber powered kit.   Steve, this is all a bit negative, but if its any consolation, a fellow flier offered me a 1/4 scale Cub, which I had seen fly, cw servos and petrol engine, I agreed, thinking in my arrogance whatever were the issues I could sort them and have a nice plane.   It was a kit build and by the time I'd stripped off the fuselage I realised it was more hassle than it was worth as it was so badly built - disappointing but you move on.   More hassle explaining to the missus why I last week it was a project and this week its sawdust.   You live and learn

Steve   As the guys have said above if this is a 60" P40 with a 60 2st it will be fairly quick and subject to high stress maneouvres. Whilst its tricky to see the build just from pictures, the fuselage construction really needs a good examination from a structural viewpoint. I am not an expert but 90% of my experience is building from plans so you get a feel as to whats ok and whats not in the design.   My initial reaction to the fuselage is that it does not look ok in its present state, there is just not enough structural integrity to take a 60 size engine. For example, I think all the front formers are balsa with just two ply crutches, there is no plywood bulkhead for the engine mount or alternatively provisions for engine bearers either of which would have been fitted at this stage.   As stated above, you would be well advised to take it along to your local club and get further hand -on advice as to the suitability of the design/build.   Better to address this now than up in the air!  

I have just bent 5mm piano wire for my Swordfish UC and Wing Supports. It’s a bit unnerving but I managed to do it quite easily using a small vice, 2 pieces of 2” 5mm wire and some 8mm steel tube (B & Q). I fact you probably don’t need a vice. Put the two pieces of wire vertically in the vice at approx 1 – 2” spacing with about 1” projecting above the vice jaws. Put the wire you want to bend between the two pins lying flat on the vice jaws so that the wire is in front of the left pin and behind the right pin. The right pin is the one that you bend against; the left pin is the restraining pin. Cut the steel tube to about 2 foot length, place the tube over the wire hard up against the bending pin and use the tube as a lever to bend. You will pull in a horizontal plane towards you. For a vice you could substitute a hardwood 2” x 1” piece of timber (not tried this) this would have to be well fixed to a bench! Obviously there is a lot of “power” whilst bending so take care and make sure the pins are tight in the vice. The actual bending movement should be smooth and continuous. The key is to start the bends in the middle of the piece and work out to the last bend. I would post pics but out of country for a while. Hope this helps!