Victors

Talking about fuel, what about Model Technics Laser 5. Made for Lasers, cheap as chips, and not much mess when the engine is tuned properly. I just want something that's recommended and I can put in the tank without any analysis or mixing.

David Does your Saito fit within the cowl on the BH Wilga. I am contemplating a Laser 200v. Thanks Bob

This is one I have not come across Andy. As you say it is different to YT and is slightly larger but is considerably more expensive.  I will do some more research and share my thoughts. In the mean time thanks to you both.

David Many thanks for the response. I have been looking for feedback on this model for some time now but they seem pretty scarce. Did you compare Black Horse and YT International before buying, and also Hobbyking do a cheaper version ? The radial should give a much more authentic sound than the usual petrol engine although I am considering  an NGH four stroke. Any pics or future comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bob

Wilga Has any one any experience of building and flying this model. The choice of medium size Wilga kits, ie around 90" seems limited to BH YT and Hobby king. Just debating which to buy. Regards Edited By Victors on 10/09/2015 20:26:31

I have been looking for a reasonable size Wilga and the larger HK kit seems to fit the bill. However I cant find any info other than the HK daily video which does not give much information. Has anyone any experience of this kit ? Regards

Flying Crust - The models on all occasions rolled aggressively all to the left. Nothing else was common each plane having its own Rx which were either 6 or 7 channel Optimas. I will check the stick movement using the system menu but at the moment have no confidence in the transmitter at all. Thanks for the comments

Thanks RC and Frank. Checked the failsafes and they are set to throttle idle and everything else to mid point, so it wasn't a loss of signal. The aerial wire looks ok and undamaged. So it looks like something within the Tx. Do I risk just replacing the Spectra unit or replace the whole Tx ?? Still thinking !!!

Just reading about problems with the Aurora 9. I have had one which has worked perfectly for the last three years, but in November last year I had problems with 4 aircraft crashing. The symptoms were the aircraft just rolled to the left in level flight and then nose dived to the ground. This happened on two flying sites and with 4 different receivers. In each case the batteries and rx were working perfectly. I have spoken to JP about the problem. They say they have no way of checking for intermittent faults, and suggest changing the Spectra module. Anyone else had the problem or can anyone suggest a reason ?

Still not flown the Acro Wot due to the bad weather but did a bench test over the weekend to assess the durability of the ESC. Did a sort of simulated flight over a 7 minute time period with periods of full throttle half throttle and idle with results as follows. At the end of the period the ESC was quite warm but certainly not hot. Battery capacity was still 40%. No servos were energised throughout the test. The trial was done without the wings attached and at high prop speeds there was a considerable warm air flow through the fuselage. Perhaps the rectangular hole in the base of the fuselage should be enlarged as Sparks has done, to allow warm air to readily escape. All in all fairly positive. The only niggle I have is that the motor is quite noisy at low revs. Speed it up and it quietens down. Anyone else have this ? Bob

Richard Thanks for the info. I think I will do the mod before the inevitable heavy landing causes damage. Simon The mod that the guys above have detailed for the ESC really is a must in order to have a workable arrangement. Disconnecting the motor leads is a bit fiddly but I used 2 pairs of long nosed pliers which made the job easier. After drilling a hole thro the bulkhead,( I used a 10mm drill by hand), feed the esc leads thro the hole first then connect the motor leads. It is only a matter then of positioning all the leads out of the way to allow the LiPo to be inserted and removed without restriction. Regarding the ST MX2, I had one about three months ago and was initially not very happy with the moulding finish. On its first flight the motor cut after about 1 minute so I had to land in the long grass. This caused the uc to detach and created a crack in the fuselage where the wing passes through. On inspection the ESC had burnt out and to remove it entailed cutting the nose off the plane. I think both the Wot 4 and Acro Wot foam Es are better buys. Regards Bob

Paul and Richard Done the ESC mod today as you described. A bit fiddly but very rewarding and results in a very neat solution with room to load and unload the LiPo. Thanks to you both. Richard, I had thought of using 5mm Nylon screws as you suggest for the undercarriage as I use these on my Wot 4s but cannot get captive nuts in. Did you just tap holes in the airframe ? regards Bob

Paul Got an Acro wot foam e today. Generally pleased with the build quality but for 30 minutes build time read an hour and a half after you have made things fit properly. Had the same problem as others with the ESC and cannot understand how Ripmax can put someting into production that basically does not fit. Thanks for your posted info. Not flown it yet due to the weather Bob

Thanks Ken - I was really looking for the configuration of the carb and exhaust on the Laser and how much cowl was removed. But also if the fuselage has to be shortened for a heavy engine. Regards Bob

Does anyone have any pictures and / or advice for fitting a Laser 80 into an Acrowot cowl. ?