Chris Arnold 1

Get them from anywhere - I got mine from a local Maplin:   http://www.maplin.co.uk/180-piece-screw-and-nut-set-44480   or ebay   http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M3-x10-A2-Stainless-Socket-Cap-Allen-Head-BOLTS-20-/400163724471?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item5d2b9ddcb7     or any non-"shed" hardware store   Bit of a blurry mobile phone camera - no macro function!!! - shot of the motor with bolts:  

Ref the emax motors and their grub screws: I had one event where I had threadlocked the supplied allen key type grub but needed to undo it to swap a burnt out motor at my flying field without having to faff around also swapping the mount itself; I somehow managed to burr the inner allen key surfaces resukting in a "trapped" motor!! But mostly the grubs do work themselves loose regardless of threadlock, unless you go really OTT with it then end up with my burring problem   Someone on the giantcod cf2822 page http://www.giantcod.co.uk/fc2822-1220kv-brushless-outrunner-motor-p-53.html suggested replacing the grubs with M3 bolts instead.   I have done this and it works - you can really go OTT with threadlock while still having the reassurance that you can impart much more torque both tightening and undoing than with the allen grub, AND you also have a backup option that should you burr the screwdriver slot, pliers will almost certainly break the threadlock and all you then need to replace is the bolt itself.   Its not the prettiest assembly - 2 bolts sticking out make it look Frankensteinesque - but at height, who's going to see them anyway??? And if you tolerate the bolts sticking out of a propsaver, whats the difference? Edited By Chris Arnold 1 on 19/01/2011 22:22:27 Edited By Chris Arnold 1 on 19/01/2011 22:23:53